1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Here is a workbench walk around of the model prior to painting. The Metal Origin Puma is a superb model. I was so impressed that i have ordered another one to be constructed in the different 234/3 Stummel version.
The level of details is above expectations for a non mainstream vendor.
I gave the smoke dischargers some wiring.
The level of details is above expectations for a non mainstream vendor.
I gave the smoke dischargers some wiring.
Last edited by lmcq11 on Sun Jun 20, 2021 4:45 pm, edited 4 times in total.
Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Notice the small screw to remove the fenders that would otherwise be under the front Jerrycan. If you hide that screw or glue the fenders in place, you will no longer be able to open the vehicle.
Last edited by lmcq11 on Sun Jun 20, 2021 4:47 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
And here is a short video of the model in action on the workbench. The next time you see it, it will be painted.
Regards, Louis
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Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Good Morning, Louis!
You have brought this Kit Build up to a very High! level of completion indeed! Looking forward to the Paint!
regards,
Painless
You have brought this Kit Build up to a very High! level of completion indeed! Looking forward to the Paint!
regards,
Painless
...Here for the Dawn...
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Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Very nice indeed. You could use magnets to hold the front two fuel containers on so that you can still use them and then they would hide the screws...
Derek
Too many project builds to list...
Too many project builds to list...
Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Thank you Painless Honestly, i was expecting this to be a summer project that would take a couple of months, with tons of challenges and issues to resolve. What i got was a great kit and a lot of fun...PainlessWolf wrote:You have brought this Kit Build up to a very High! level of completion i
The complexity is mainly in its operations during the break-in period. At first, the Puma runs like a pig and i worried a lot. Looks like that for each 5 minutes of running, i had to do 40 minutes of maintenance. Watching and listening to any unusual movement or noise, then opening the hull, investigate, fixing some loose hex pins, grinding some drive cups, fixing a dogbone shaft that had lost its T bar... I think the break-in period should be viewed as part of the modelling experience instead of blasting the vendor. After a few runs, the puma starts to run better and it got to an acceptable level at this time. The instructions say it takes 45 minutes of operation to break-in the gears but i found the issues to be mainly with the dogbone/cardan drive shafts, not the main motor/gearbox. And i have learned a lot about automotive mechanics in the process. Getting a powerful servo for the steering is critical. The GTK Boxer build is a lot more complex.
Thanks, Now, why didn't i think of that when it was time. I will keep this in mind for the 234/3 Stummel.tankme wrote:ou could use magnets to hold the front two fuel containers on so that you can still use them and then they would hide the screws...
Regards, Louis
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Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
I hope you will give us the same level of detail with the Stummel build, but I know its a lot of work to do so.
Your comment that "The complexity is mainly in its operations during the break-in period. At first, the Puma runs like a pig and i worried a lot." is actually helpful to me. It tells me that the problems have solutions. Plenty of patience I have (drives my sweetheart ), skills in much lesser quantity.
"I think the break-in period should be viewed as part of the modelling experience instead of blasting the vendor." Now that's a sign of your patience--and that helps make you fair.
Your comment that "The complexity is mainly in its operations during the break-in period. At first, the Puma runs like a pig and i worried a lot." is actually helpful to me. It tells me that the problems have solutions. Plenty of patience I have (drives my sweetheart ), skills in much lesser quantity.
"I think the break-in period should be viewed as part of the modelling experience instead of blasting the vendor." Now that's a sign of your patience--and that helps make you fair.
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Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
One hell of a result, and so quickly too! I'm always amazed at how productive you are, Louis!
Weird that the fender/stowage boxes need to be removed to take the upper hull off, it certainly makes battery changes inconvenient. Could the fenders be permanently attached to the lower hull with the upper removable in between? Just wondering what would be practical for long-term use.
Weird that the fender/stowage boxes need to be removed to take the upper hull off, it certainly makes battery changes inconvenient. Could the fenders be permanently attached to the lower hull with the upper removable in between? Just wondering what would be practical for long-term use.
Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Louis,
I followed your advice on the 35Kg servo upgrade and the PUMA can turn much better. The first time it was on the field though, I did a 360 turn on a path and when it was driving away, 5 of the 8 torsion bones fell out ! I guess it was turning so much better that there is gaps between the coupling and bones. Will have to adjust them accordingly !
MichaelC.
I followed your advice on the 35Kg servo upgrade and the PUMA can turn much better. The first time it was on the field though, I did a 360 turn on a path and when it was driving away, 5 of the 8 torsion bones fell out ! I guess it was turning so much better that there is gaps between the coupling and bones. Will have to adjust them accordingly !
MichaelC.
Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Hi, I have created a basic graph to illustrate how the fenders wrap around the upper and lower hull to lock them together (not to scale). The fenders have to be pulled sideways to release them to then be able to lift the upper hull. The hull and fenders are long and contain fragile parts on them. They need the screws to properly keep them positioned and strait. If magnets can be used on the fenders and hull, they would have to be powerful ones. Magnets do not stick to the metal used on the hull. A nice challenge for others...Raminator wrote:Could the fenders be permanently attached to the lower hull with the upper removable in between? Just wondering what would be practical for long-term use.
Hi Michael, They fell off ? Guess you are not using the optional Cardan swing arms sold separately, On my Puma, these are actually way too tight and cannot fall. But when too tight, it puts pressure on the dogbone half of the shaft and can displace the rod of the T bar that then need reposition after grinding the drive cup a bit. This is the break-in problem i had with the optional swing arms. Did you put the provided rubber rims on both drive cups ? I had to remove them on mine.MichaelC wrote:I followed your advice on the 35Kg servo upgrade and the PUMA can turn much better. The first time it was on the field though, I did a 360 turn on a path and when it was driving away, 5 of the 8 torsion bones fell out ! I guess it was turning so much better that there is gaps between the coupling and bones. Will have to adjust them accordingly !