Re: M16 Half Track "Meat Chopper" Korea 1950 - Build
Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 7:09 pm
Hi,
When raising the armored windshield, the three supports bars need to be crafted. Closer inspection reveals that they are more complex than thought, not just a stick. The idea is to create something as close as possible with the material available.
Not everything can be 3D printed. These are actually providing support and do help keep the armored windshield solidly in place. Having brass tubes and strips of all kind of sizes is important for such build.
Details shown on the door in references.
The flaps needed to be thinned significantly to be realistic. 1.4mm Meng nuts and some brass tubes are required. The tie downs remains to be created and will be added at the end of the build. I found that these are usually fragile and I would lose a few during the heavy manipulation of the model during the build. Better keep fragile stuff for the end. The door handle which was only a blob of plastic has been removed and redone in brass. Still need some refining and improvement. It is not uncommon for me to redo things twice or more until I am satisfied with the results. I have to see the small items on close up pictures to really notice the quality and determine if ok or not.
As seen at the start of the build, the door interior have no details at all. For a open compartment like this, it needs improvements.
Interior view of the right door as seen in my reference book shown on the first post. It has a metal map case, locking mechanism and bolts. Those 3D graphics are fantastic and are mandatory for this detailing. Other views of the interior frame were great. Highly recommended.
I tried to do something similar but without dimensions, its all guess work and done on a best effort basis so that we can have something interesting to look at on the model.
The handle was hand crafted from 2mm brass rod using nail files.
Left door interior detail. Notice the frame around the doors as seen in references, easily reproduced. But the cabin plastic is a lot thicker than the real M16 so some compromises are required. I did not see myself thinning all that plastic. Ensure that the interior nuts are matching the bolt location seen on the exterior side of the door and walls.
Continuing on following post
When raising the armored windshield, the three supports bars need to be crafted. Closer inspection reveals that they are more complex than thought, not just a stick. The idea is to create something as close as possible with the material available.
Not everything can be 3D printed. These are actually providing support and do help keep the armored windshield solidly in place. Having brass tubes and strips of all kind of sizes is important for such build.
Details shown on the door in references.
The flaps needed to be thinned significantly to be realistic. 1.4mm Meng nuts and some brass tubes are required. The tie downs remains to be created and will be added at the end of the build. I found that these are usually fragile and I would lose a few during the heavy manipulation of the model during the build. Better keep fragile stuff for the end. The door handle which was only a blob of plastic has been removed and redone in brass. Still need some refining and improvement. It is not uncommon for me to redo things twice or more until I am satisfied with the results. I have to see the small items on close up pictures to really notice the quality and determine if ok or not.
As seen at the start of the build, the door interior have no details at all. For a open compartment like this, it needs improvements.
Interior view of the right door as seen in my reference book shown on the first post. It has a metal map case, locking mechanism and bolts. Those 3D graphics are fantastic and are mandatory for this detailing. Other views of the interior frame were great. Highly recommended.
I tried to do something similar but without dimensions, its all guess work and done on a best effort basis so that we can have something interesting to look at on the model.
The handle was hand crafted from 2mm brass rod using nail files.
Left door interior detail. Notice the frame around the doors as seen in references, easily reproduced. But the cabin plastic is a lot thicker than the real M16 so some compromises are required. I did not see myself thinning all that plastic. Ensure that the interior nuts are matching the bolt location seen on the exterior side of the door and walls.
Continuing on following post