Taigen panzer iv kit.

[Max-U52]

So i throw this question out to the masses, what sort of gear box do I throw into the little beast, do I wait for Taigens V2 steel ball bearing gear boxes to be back in stock, or go a different route? Advice, views, thoughts? rambles. go for it.

You'll get a lot of different opinions on that, but personally I like these for small tanks like the PIII and PIV

https://www.rctank.de/Panzer-IV-51-PRO- ... -gearboxes

In a PIII you can squeeze in 380 motors with these, but I'm not sure about the PIV. At any rate they have good power with the 360s. They give you proper scale speed and you don't have to sacrifice the bow MG.

[Von Mooflesaaa]

Have you installed these on your panzer iv? If so what was the install like. Any issues to be aware off. The 5:1 ratio does look nice.

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[Von Mooflesaaa]

Anyone have any other gear box suggestions? The for mentioned gearboxes, do I need to solder in a resistor or just straight to power cables? Also while I'm throwing questions out to the masses. I'm looking at adding side skirts, but I'm not to sure where to get a set of holders and aprons. I found these, would the hull skirts work with the taigen kit even though it says not for metal version. Can it be converted? Does anyone have any experience with these?

https://www.rctank.de/Panzer-IV-aprons- ... olystyrene

As usual your help is greatly appreciated.

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[Max-U52]

You don't have to solder in anything, if you use the motors with the gearboxes it's a plug and play swap. I've put the dual ratio in several PIIIs and one PIV and they worked well in all of them. One of the PIIIs was a StuG III and I put 380 motors in that and it ran at pretty much perfect scale speed, about 24 mph on smooth, level road.

[jarndice]

Hi, I bought a "Tamiya C Sprue" for 35.95 euros from http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/
If you download the Tamiya Panzer 4 Manual from the download section of the Forum (Header bar on the top of the page) assembly and fitting instructions for the Turret Armour are included.
It has the PZ4 Turret Shurtzen armour complete with all the mounting arms,
The Tamiya Turret Armour is a direct fit onto a Taigen Metal Turret.
The Complementary track armour was not a standard fit on the PZ4 Ausf H and I have left it off of my PZ4 Ausf H but it was pretty much a universal fit on the PZ4 Ausf J although the later Ausf Js track armour was no longer made of plate but of mesh.
The only problem you will face when fitting the Turret or the Track armour is working out where you need to pin vise the holes for the mounting arms,
I wrote a piece about that in an earlier thread, It is not difficult as long as you take your time and do lots of dry runs.
AXELS will charge 19% VAT (Value added tax) unless you remind them that as a US customer you are not liable for that tax, The 19% saving will go someway to offset the postal charges.

[HERMAN BIX]

Yes the Tamiya skirts will fit onto the Taigen turret, but there is a fraction difference that must be carefully managed when fitting them.
Also, there Tamiya models have guides and small slots to ensure the precise positioning, the Taigen does not.
Its easy to get the skirts too low on a Taigen. Care and test fitting must be taken.
The taigen hull has a different profile than the Tamiya(its flat on the rear not sloped) so the rear skirt mounts need to be re-positioned or modified accordingly.
Certainly a straight forward effort to get a great result though.

[Von Mooflesaaa]

Thanks for all the help guys. Looks like I know where to get my side skirts from now. Quick question. On the bottom of my panzer I have 2 switches. Now one is power. The rotary knob is volume. What on earth is the final switch. Anyone have any ideas.

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[General Jumbo01]

Smoker, redundant on late models.

[Von Mooflesaaa]

You know I initially thought smoker. But then thought that was a draft idea. Ok. I'll pull those wires and switch out. Relocate the other two to a far better area.

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[jarndice]

I bought my Taigen Metal Hull separately and I carried out a number of modifications the very first of which was to remove the switch panel from the base of the hull and replace it with a sized sheet of 2mm plasticard which I superglued in place then using watered down "Green Putty" I wiped the base to fill any gaps and then painted it.
I was able to relocate the switches over the Heng Long Ultimate 11 gearboxes because they are low slung allowing access to the switches through the drivers hatch.