RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I would suggest silicon grease that's used in the plumbing industry. It's a good moisture repellent, has better staying power than the thin silicon oils/lubes. Shouldn't harm any plastic. It's used on O rings, values etc, anything that has plastic/rubber, it's also used on washing machine seals.
Although it's unlikely it'll last in its intended use with all that water lashing at it, I should think it'll work well for you, but like any oils and greases, if they have an escape rout, they will need re-applying.

I'll be following this build with interest, some of you don't like an easy option.

Edit; it will also work with metal against plastic. And is used on cars etc, especially on moving plastic parts.

Edit 2; just found this.
TETROSYL LTD Silicone Grease Multi Purpose Grease Water Repellent Carlube 70g: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

Thanks Mick, both for the advice and the link

You're welcome Richard.
Funny, I'm repairing a neighbour's electric window at the moment and I need some, Halfords don't list it, my local car trade suppliers only have sprays, which are no good for what I need, looks like I've got to pop to a plumbers, yet I have some somewhere and can't find it lol.

c.rainford73 wrote:

Xiaoshan_Sailor wrote:Neither has stock nor plan to produce. I have the 38(t) kit & was in contact just last week with S.K. & he only plans to run the Pz II Luchs again. Re future kits, he plans to develop one for the pending Classy Hobby M5A1 once he gets his hands on a kit & very interested in doing another for the new Takom Pz I.

If you need Spade Ace track sets, I've only found them from several dealers on Taobao. Price is around $30 at current exchange.

Do you have a link for tracks?

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1 ... 1965187098

This morning I found my first problem, one of my own making I have to admit. When I started work on the kit, I decided to give everything a coat of primer beforehand. Today I started on the road wheels. They need modification anyway to become free running. The parts are a very good fit, which would be great in a static model. Having the primer on has exacerbated the problem, so I am now working my way through them slowly, rubbing them down. On the right hand side of the photo is what is effectively the axle. Just above this is the small plate which bears against the leaf spring suspension. The instructions say to widen the gap between this and the axle. so far I have not found a satisfactory way to do this, so have resorted to sanding down the socket on the wheel. The situation was not helped when I found that the wheel moulding is imperceptably off centre. It binds for 50% of its circumference. I have overcome this, and the wheel rotates. I would, however, like to widen the gap as suggested as I don't want to make the wheel hub any thinner. If anyone can suggest how to reduce the thickness of the plate I shall be grateful. I have tried wet and dry, but can not get any pressure against it.

Have you got any of those dremel sanding drums? The type you put on a rubber expanding arbor.
Just need to work out how to hold the drum to use by HAND.

These things.

Drum Sanding Kit Sanding Sleeves
https://www.toolstation.com/drum-sandin ... 4wEALw_wcB

Triton Aluminium Oxide Sanding Sleeve Set 13-76mm 80 Grit 6 Pcs | Bobbin Sanding Sleeves | Screwfix.com
https://www.screwfix.com/p/triton-alumi ... A3EALw_wcB

Unless you have some suitable tube you can wrap or glue some sanding sheet around, you may need something a bit course to speed things up, and wouldn't need so much pressure. Again, to be used by hand.

Richard have you looked at my build thread? If I remember I sanded down the exterior of the wheel hub and very carefully hand sanded the arm. The dremel may work but due to the fragile nature of the plastic I stayed away from it.

If I use anything from the Dremel, it will be the sanding drum in my fingers. I will have a look, but I don't think I have any suitable tube. The machine is far too viscious, as Carl has said. I will have another read of Carl's thread. I did read it, but I think my brain is full and it did not stick. Thank you both. I am sure I can progress in an orderly manner with the benefit of your advice.

Like I said and re emphasised, by hand, I was never suggesting using the dremel. It's just that most people have those drum sanders for their dremels. And one can make useful sanding HAND tools with them.

Slow progress, I'm afraid. I have made up and fitted the PE mudguard brackets. Vey impressed with the way they have used the locating tuds as rivets. The brackets all fitted perfectly with one odd exception. On the rear left bracket, the studs did not match the holes in the bracket. It was easy to rectify though. Slicing very carefully with my trusty Swann & Morton scalpel, I removed the offending stud, glued on the bracket and refitted the stud into the empty hole. I have done other work, but no photos as yet. If I have time before I go away, I will get some more posted