Comet A34- Ludwig kit

This section is for builds that are not strictly Tamiya or Heng Long. For instance, replacing the electronics from a WSN or Matorro, or even a scratch-build.

Postby c.rainford73 » Sun May 05, 2019 3:19 am

Roy this is really coming along, the turret looks spectacular :wave: Keep up the great work
User avatar
c.rainford73
Major
 
Posts: 5304
Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2016 7:34 pm
Location: Connecticut USA

Postby Model Builder 4 » Sun May 05, 2019 1:38 pm

Great build thread again Roy, I'm sure this will help people out with their future builds, the one that you did for your Cromwell helped me out massively with my own build ( still ongoing :/ ) keep up the good work :thumbup:

Cheers, Lee.
User avatar
Model Builder 4
Staff Sergeant
 
Posts: 984
Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2015 3:46 pm
Location: South Wales valleys

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sun May 05, 2019 3:39 pm

Many thanks, Painless (hope you enjoyed the cream cake :D ), Carl, and Lee. Yep, my view is that a build thread should be fairly detailed, and show errors as well as bits of inspiration so that others can avoid the same pitfalls, (or fall into them, if they're masochistic :haha: ) and share in the more positive outcomes. The same should apply to kit assembly instructions too... :problem:
Unfortunately, some of Christian's pics are a tad too blurry to reassure the builder that things are going as intended. Example: it's hard to tell whether some plates are bonded on top of others, or inside them (as with the Storage box), because of the joint lines are indistinct.
Luckily, I learned this from the Cromwell build. More than that, the manual stops dead- long before all the kit parts are fitted. Still..it's a good incentive for the builder to turn detective. :D
You will also find (should you go down the Comet track..and why not?) that there's no mention of where the return rollers and idler wheels are sourced from. My guess is that they're from the Panzer 111. We know from the parts list, that drive sprockets are based on the Panzer IV configuration, and so tracks for the Pz IV will fit and ought to work with the Pz 111 return rollers/ idlers so long as the general alignment is checked with a steel rule, before finally attempting to get the running gear rolling for the first time. Nobody wants a skewed drive train. 8O That could lock the motors, and blow the expensive MFU this pricey project definitely merits.
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sun May 05, 2019 4:03 pm

For prospective builders, you should know that there's a chance that the bits you order may no longer be available in the format seen in Chris' online shop. As I said before, some parts have been improved.
However, when I ordered 'Pos o4' (77mm Cannon) here:
http://www.ludwigs-hobby-seite.de/Comet.html, I assumed I would be getting these bits and bobs 'Pos 01' Britisch Tank parts (sic):
http://www.ludwigs-hobby-seite.de/Briti ... Parts.html It's the same heading, and price, after all.
I expected these to arrive:
British tank parts- Pos 01 QQF Kanone.jpeg
QQF 77mm cannon assembly
British tank parts- Pos 01 QQF Kanone.jpeg (59.29 KiB) Viewed 209 times

What I got, however, was this:
Image
I have pointed this out to him, but it appears that the bits I thought I would be getting have either been altered, or are not available. This means I don't even have the barrel support and pivot assembly (trunnion)
illustrated here:
Comet Mantlet parts pic B.jpeg
Comet alloy gun tube and trunnion
Comet Mantlet parts pic B.jpeg (73.98 KiB) Viewed 209 times

The plastic parts for the recoil are also missing from the kit. Examples of them are seen here:
Comet Mantlet parts-pic c.jpeg
Comet Mantlet parts and recoil assembly
Comet Mantlet parts-pic c.jpeg (62.81 KiB) Viewed 209 times

This is all a bit of a muddle (Chris is a genius at designing and producing these kits...but, shall we say a little atypically disorganised, for a German, as a vendor selling them :D ).
Anyway, as it stands, I shall have to invent my own means of attaching the movable (elevating) part of the gun mantlet to the major fixed static part, whilst enabling it to pivot, and also enabling the barrel to slide.
Hmm...that's no small undertaking. :think: :/
For the moment, then, I'm going to move on to the Upper hull (Oberwanne). Before I do, I might just add a few bolt heads to the Turret...
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sun May 05, 2019 6:57 pm

Some enthusiastic purists will buy, and fit, mini brass bolts for decorative purposes, and that authentic look. Glue on bolt heads are also available, but I make mine from hex styrene. All that's needed, is a sharp craft knife, a pair of tweezers, a steady hand and...well, something to catch the bits of cut hex as they tiddleywink their way across the room, and into the void. :lolno: I use mainly 1.5, 2, and 2.5mm hex styrene.
Image
Here I've put some in place, along with a brace of lifting eyes. Ignore the bits of surplus glue and mess. All will be tidied up later with surfacer and more...
Image
Unless bolts and screws are going to perform as bolts and screws that real ones are needed. If they are there purely for symbolic purposes, that hex can look just as good when :thumbup: primed and painted.
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby biertje » Mon May 06, 2019 9:33 pm

Hi

I have the same problem here, also the barrel is a 17 pounder.

Ill try to print a correct barrel when I finally start working on the tank.

Greetings Tim
User avatar
biertje
Recruit
 
Posts: 46
Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2018 12:21 pm

Postby lmcq11 » Mon May 06, 2019 10:22 pm

43rdRecceReg wrote:Anyway, as it stands, I shall have to invent my own means of attaching the movable (elevating) part of the gun mantlet to the major fixed static part, whilst enabling it to pivot, and also enabling the barrel to slide.


Hi, You could put a Clark recoil unit and design the elevation around it.

lmcq11
Sergeant
 
Posts: 730
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 8:42 pm
Location: Quebec, Canada

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Tue May 07, 2019 6:12 pm

lmcq11 wrote:
43rdRecceReg wrote:Anyway, as it stands, I shall have to invent my own means of attaching the movable (elevating) part of the gun mantlet to the major fixed static part, whilst enabling it to pivot, and also enabling the barrel to slide.


Hi, You could put a Clark recoil unit and design the elevation around it.


Thanks, Tim and Louis.
Where there's a will, there's a way. It's just a question of finding it. :|
Louis, I used the Clark recoil unit on my (Ludwig) Cromwell project, and so that would be familiar territory. As for connecting the two parts of the Mantlet (Static and Elevating), I'm going to cut two vertical slots in the fixed section either side of the gun aperture, so that I can run two flat pieces of plate (styrene) through to bond with the elevating Mantlet. Then, I can drill the plates where they appear on the inside of the fixed section, so that a brass rod can be run through either side of the barrel, and fixed in place with the two resin retainers/ lugs provided with the kit. That should provide the pivot. Then a small portion of alloy tube/ or ABS tube
with an internal diameter of 12.6mm can be bonded into the outer elevating section to permit the barrel to recoil... Phew.. 8O ..well, that's the idea, and it should work.. :problem:
I could draw a plan out..but that would take more time than I have. :|
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Tue May 07, 2019 6:24 pm

Just to keep the project ticking over whilst I resolve the issue of missing parts, here's a start on the Upper Hull.
A further note of caution to prospective builders, some of the illustrations in Christian's instruction Pdf for the Comet, are actually of the Cromwell. Whilst the Comet was based on the Cromwell, some of the details are significantly different- the storage bins, for example, and the front glacis plate. :problem:

Anyway, a tip when assembling the main structural arts:
1. Ensure the surface you're working on is perfectly flat ( I use a steel rule to check the workspace)
2. Do use weights to stop the plates from flexing during bonding
3. A good set of metal set squares can help to ensure that vertical surfaces are just that- vertical (90deg..)
4. Use the ruler to ensure edges are straight too...
You really don't want any twists or bends (or swayback profiles >:< ) in this Hull; one of the most crucial of parts. All of this will be obvious to seasoned builders, but for those starting out..well, I hope they'll learn a little something from it. :thumbup:
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Tue May 07, 2019 6:33 pm

Upper Hull sprue:
Image
and razored down into constituent bits:
Image
Starting at the front (remember to keep the side with the imprinted details facing down..) yeah yeah..but when you're tired, or on an amber nectar evening accidents can happen...
Do bear in mind, that some of the tasks may seem straightforward, but sooner or later something will crop up that you've missed, or things will end up inside out, or upside down. It can be very tricky.
Image
Front section bonded in place, whilst the hull deck is held flat with weights.
Image
Using steel rule to check workspace for level. Jigs don't come with kits; you have to improvise.
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Tue May 07, 2019 6:40 pm

..and on we go
The rear section:
Image
Back to the first part of the two-part Front Armour plate:
Image
Next, the outermost part of the front armour plate:
Image
getting all these bits plumb and straight, will make everything that follows so much more bearable (and less peppered with expletives :D )
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Tue May 07, 2019 6:50 pm

..and this is what a little progress looks like:
Image
Image

When I build the Cromwell, I had to make many of the detail fittings from scratch. This time, I'll use as many sources as i can to lighten the load on the ageing grey matter, and wobbly fingers.
I found, and ordered, these bits for the Cromwell on Shapeways. As it happens the four fuel caps and other bits will fit the Comet perfectly. I had to magic them up out of scrap bits last time...
It used up a lot of time- and Elastoplast, for the nicks in the old digital extremities. @)
Image
They were made by Zavod- who, from the sound of it, could be a fan of Zaphod Beeblebrox in the 'Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy'. :D It stands to his credit, if so... :thumbup:
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Wed May 08, 2019 2:55 pm

Two long plates act as sides to the engine deck. They're really only supported at either end, and need a little reinforcement with a styrene fillet to stop them bowing out, or in, from the engine deck. :|
Image
Two strips are cut to fit either side, and then pushed up into the apex (gently). The waiting line of cement was dispensed from a Revell Contacta Pro bottle, which has a syringe-like needle, and is ideal from recesses such as these, and for precision work. :thumbup:
Image
Image
Given the bendy nature of styrene- even up to 3mm bits, I find it prudent to reinforce joints, junctions, and fragile panels wherever possible- so long as the stiffeners (loath to write that :haha: )...ahem.. are out of sight. :D
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Wed May 08, 2019 3:12 pm

Now for the Besa MG fittings in the front armour plate. This is what they look like in the Instruction pdf:
Ludwig-MG fitting.jpeg
Chris Ludwig- Besa MG mount
Ludwig-MG fitting.jpeg (36.11 KiB) Viewed 132 times

The constituent parts (minus the base) are here in the sprue. (Note: Chris taped some bits in place so they wouldn't come adrift en route)
Image
They, when assembled (and they are tricky to assemble) bond on to this base part:
MG base.jpeg
MG base for Besa mount
MG base.jpeg (90.41 KiB) Viewed 132 times

Unfortunately, the sprue with the base and several other 3mm parts didn't arrive with the main kit... :problem: A wee oversight, shall we say, that the Teutonic Tanker is now aware of... :D
Anyway, I decided to make my own base, using a circle cutter.
Image
Image
I've also beefed up the otherwise fragile mount by adding a 3mm brace up by the mount points...as in pic.
I also need to add a triangular shaped one underneath. When cleaned up and fully beefed it's meant to resemble the real thing more, the one in this pic I took at Munster Panzer Museum:
Image
Image
But that will mean a spot of extra beefing (stiffening.. :/ ), tidying up; some surfacer, and some luck with the home-made base. Watch this space. :D
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Wed May 08, 2019 3:17 pm

You'll notice those massive lifting eyes atop the corners of the Comet's Front Armour Plate. They don't come in the kit, and I shall have to make them from scratch (i.e. out of anything that seems usable).
You wouldn't believe how much time these projects can gobble up. Now, I have a sick pooch to attend to, and her home-cooked meal... :| Ah, Life's rich pageant, eh? :wave:
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Fri May 10, 2019 9:24 pm

As you can see, the ball mount for the Besa MG on the Comet is quite a chunky, beefy affair. The MG design in Chris' kit is taken from the Cromwell, and needs thickening up to look a tad more authentic here.
Here's the retaining plate that holds the ball arrangement in the front armour plate:
Image
It needs rounding off to look the part...so:
Image
I keep a pack of these double-sided sanders, in various grades. They're indispensable. I think they were aimed at the manicurist, but some of these are so abrasive they could be used by a Farrier on a horse hoof :D 8O
Now for some bolt heads.
Image
After a while, you develop a gentle rolling technique with the craft knife/scalpel, that cuts a more even head, without pinging it off into the great living room void... :lolno:
Image
Gentle sanding with fine grades later with make it look more convincing, as will some surfacer. In the meantime, I coated the whole MG ball mount in Milliput superfine putty to give it the rough cast look you see in the pic of the real deal.
The distinctive plate that constituted the fifth (and main) part of the Kit was missing. So....I cut one out of spare styrene with my compass cutter, and drilled a hole for the gun to go through..
Image
...and, this is what it all looks like when assemble and bonded onto the hull. Bear in mind, it still needs some delicate finishing and tidying up later, at the painting and tweaking stage.. :)
Image
Well, this is my attempt to make the gun mounting resemble, more closely, the one on the Munster Comet.
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Fri May 10, 2019 10:29 pm

Moving on to the Driver and Gunner's hatches.These are the basic kit parts:
Image
Image
The side and top parts of the hatch are joined together, and have an internal triangular support bracket (not in kit...)
Image
I found it best to bond them first, and not whilst in situ. (The fettling for fitting comes later...)This way I could ensure that they formed a proper right angle, and were flush at the apex.
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Fri May 10, 2019 10:43 pm

Image
A wee pointy file is very useful for fettling the bonded bits into place. The aim is to make the hatch a flush fit with the hull deck and sides. This is what the real one looks like (driver's hatch, in this instance) note the triangular support bracket:
Image
Once the hatch is made level on the vertical and horizontal planes (my..we do get technical, eh? :D ), it's time to start fitting the pivots/hinges and pivot arm
Hatch nice and level
Image
What I did, was to cement the arm in the correct position, and then align it with the hinges..before bonding them in place. It was quite fiddly. :problem: The hole through the arm was 'drilled' with a pin vise (an essential tool for jobs like these)
Image
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Fri May 10, 2019 10:47 pm

Image
I wanted to make sure that the hatch opened evenly, and that the hinge was properly at 90deg to the arm. :|
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Fri May 10, 2019 11:06 pm

The arms on which the hatches pivot have bevelled sides. To make them, I used right- angled styrene bars and Milliput extrafine as a filler and former. (Milliput was applied first, then the angled styrene was pressed onto it, and then cut to length and shape) Thus:
Image
Image
Later, I'll also use Milliput Extrafine, or Plasto, to form weld lines around the arm.
Using a bit of scrap (yep..it's never really scrap-it just stays an excellent resource), I cut triangular (internal) support brackets for the hatches;
Image
Image
Here you can get a hint of the hatch support arms' bevelled appearance on the opened Gunner's Hatch.
Image
That's what I was attempting to replicate...if only symbolically. :lolno: ;) I'm after an authentic look, but I'm not really into that slightly nerdish Museum quality attention to detail.
Anyway, when it's all assembled for inspection purposes, it looks like this in it's raw state:
Image
Time for a nightcap, I think :thumbup:
User avatar
43rdRecceReg
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3472
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
Location: North West Highlands, Scotland

PreviousNext

Return to Other Builds

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests