1/16 RC Vandra M7 Priest SP Howitzer conversion build

[lmcq11]

Thank you Carl and Hermann.

I can only imagine the "%$#@##$" moment when you realised the suspension units were too high

Yeah, I was a bit hearth broken about having to crack open the bogies to rework them, but its just plastic. It usually happens at least twice on every build that I would work 2-3 hours on something, see it on pictures the next day with a cooler head and then decide the redo it again. We should not be afraid of that. As I said in a earlier post, I am having a lot more fun with this build than building an extremely expensive and accurate kits. It must be the feeling of experimenting stuff and trying to improve my skills and results. There is nothing like it to keep my head off those computer enhancement projects at the office...

Thinking of accuracy, I wanted to post something on the references i purchased and using for the build so here they are;

Definitely my main source, Squadron Signal M7 Priest Walk Around by D.Doyle has great close up interior and exterior pictures of a few restored vehicles. Essential reference for this build.

Squadron SIgnal M7 Priest Walk around

Squadron SIgnal US SP guns in action by J.Mesko. It has a section on the M7, some very useful wartime close up pictures and graphs

Squadron SIgnal US SP guns in action

Osprey M7 Priest 105mm Howitzer Motor Carriage by S.Zaloga. Good history of the vehicle, some wartime pictures and color references, but no close up pictures and no interior details.

Osprey M7 Priest 105mm Howitzer Motor Carriage

Concord US Armored Artillery in World War 2 by S.Zaloga. Many wartime pictures of M7 and other SP gun in action, with color references useful for painting and markings. Does not contain pictures of interior.

Concord US Armored Artillery in World War 2

M7 Priest Field Manual by War Department. Bought this thinking it would contain pictures of the vehicle for servicing. However, it is a manual that explains how to shoot the gun, with very few pictures. Not what i needed.

M7 Priest Field Manual

And then there is the internet; below are useful links.

http://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie ... mId=453534

http://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie ... mId=260598

http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/m7.htm

Amazing and inspiring Armorpax build in 1/6 scale by someone named Dave.

http://www.armorpax.com/Armorpax/Forum/ ... 02e682940e

Above references must be used in relation to the M7 vehicle version being built, early, mid, late, M7B1 or M7B2.

Regards, Louis

[lmcq11]

Oh, and of course, 1/35 kits from Italeri, Dragon and Academy.

[lmcq11]

Hi,

The end is getting nearer.

I finished the driver's position. After a lot of thinking as to how I would finish the area, I concluded the following was the best option.

I put a plasticard sheet to cover the open pit at the front. The Heng Long gears are no longer exposed. I scanned a reference picture of the driver's position, cut it to size and placed it where it would normally be on the model. What you see below is a draft version to give an idea of the final layout. When I will be in the final stages of weathering, I will do a proper high quality scan, adjust colors, print it on glossy paper, and then glue the picture in place. I will likely create the tip of the driver's seat in plasticard and make it stick out of the picture. The effect seems acceptable considering the alternatives.

No parts for this driver's area was coming with the kit. The dash with the dials and controls were scratch built and is temporarily in place. This thing took a couple of hours and part of my sanity. I still need to thin the round borders to the size of the dials on the decals sheet that I ordered. I figured that 1/24 aircraft dials should do the job. I'll see and adjust as needed. The dash, like the gun, will be only installed for good after the painting and weathering phase is done. No, the bin next to the visor does not open...

M7 Priest driver position

M7 Priest driver position

Tomorrow, I will finish the interior. A major challenge will be the scratch building of the M1 carbine storage racks.

Regards, Louis

[Raminator]

On the home stretch now, Louis. As always, I'm amazed by your dedication and attention to detail; the end result is sure to be an absolute work of art.

Your solution for the driver's compartment is brilliant, it's such a neat and elegant solution to an otherwise insurmountable issue. Well done!

[lmcq11]

Hi, thank you all for your interest.

Continuing with the interior, below is the kit part that is supposed to be a fire extinguisher. Two are needed on each sides next to the ammo bins. It seems to me that it is actually a hydraulic jack, or maybe it's a coffee thermos. In any cases, it is not a fire extinguisher and i will either need to buy 2 somewhere (i could not find any on ebay at the right scale) or scratch build them.

M7 Priest interior

I have then concentrated on the M1 carbine racks. I need to build 2 of them for these little rare gems bought on ebay from Germany. They have not been cleaned yet. They come with a water canteen that will also be handy later.

1/16 M1 carbine

The US rifle/carbine rack for vehicle is complex to make, it has lots of curves and are made of thin metal. After studying references, basic parts have been made in plasticard.

1/16 M1 carbine rack

And after 2 hours of work, this is how they look. I created a working locking mechanism to store and retrieve the M1 carbine. It will come handy at the painting phase. I also installed inside 3 cushions made of dust mask material to keep the carbines from moving. Quite efficient and i am pleased with the result.

1/16 M1 carbine rack

This is how they look mounted in the M7 pulpit. I saw a variation of these mounted behind the driver in some kind of weird perpendicular fashion but i prefer this way.

1/16 M1 carbine rack

I just love open fighting vehicles.

1/16 M1 carbine rack

I have redone the gunner seat as per reference, reusing the kit seat but with a new brass/plasticard mount behind the trail. Again, many variations of these.

M7 Priest gunner seat

M7 Priest gunner seat

The brass job has been done on both sides.

M7 Priest

Next step is detailing the rear deck.

Regards, Louis

[c.rainford73]

Fantastic details Louis Fit my M-36 I found the fire extinguisher and decontamination unit on shapeways. Hope this helps. I think I found them accidentally and they are very nice. With you skills you could scratch build the extinguisher.

Love the carbine holders

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

[HERMAN BIX]

Carbine holders..............who'd of thunk !!
Soo-puuurrrb

[c.rainford73]

Louis is one of the craftiest guys I've seen. Such wonderful detail bits.... On a budget too... wich is so clever and impressive.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

[lmcq11]

Hi everyone,

Here is a sitrep. I've been going around the model and adding items here and there. I am close to having finished the building phase.

One thing I was looking at is replacing the Heng Long tracks by a set of spare plastic Mato T-48 tracks that comes with the plastic Mato Sherman, I have one set in store, along with metal sprockets for them. I have found the Mato tracks to be of overall better quality, they are not empty on the inside face but they seem oversized compared to the Heng Long and are quite heavy. Or maybe it is the Heng Long tracks that are undersized. Both seem to be T-48 but are so different.

I have not done any field test yet to see how the Mato runs with the Heng Long sized road wheels but other than being a bit loose, they seem to fit. I might need to remove one link or maybe replace the idler. The sprockets also fit the Heng Long gear correctly.

Here is the model with the Heng Long tracks

M7 Priest Heng Long tracks

M7 Priest Heng Long tracks

M7 Priest Heng Long tracks

M7 Priest Heng Long tracks

And now with the Mato tracks

M7 Priest Mato tracks

M7 Priest Heng Long tracks

M7 Priest Heng Long tracks

M7 Priest Heng Long tracks

Here are the two track side by side, notice the difference for about the same unit cost for spares...

M7 Priest Heng Long tracks

I personally like the Mato tracks better. Do you guys agree ?

Thanks, Louis

[c.rainford73]

Hello and good evening Louis. I've studied these photos for a few minutes and am on the fence. The Mato ones look s bit chunkier for sure.

Maybe a bit too thick. But much better detail for sure. The tell tale step will be once you paint and weather them. To get the real effect.

I wish the Mato ones were the size of the Heng Long ones. Look at this photo...