• Advertisement
Welsh Dragon Models

Taigen Early Tiger 1

This section is for builds that are not strictly Tamiya or Heng Long. For instance, replacing the electronics from a WSN or Matorro, or even a scratch-build.

Postby SgtMalarky » Sun Feb 12, 2017 1:00 pm

I bought a Taigen Tiger 1 'finished' but have been inspired by this forum to weather and rust etc.
Next stage is to add rust powder then mud powder. I have found the rust powder to be a bit on the 'in yer face' side so the mud and crud will hopefully cover it up a bit.
Before adfing the powders i will airbrush matt cote to seal what i have done to date. Does this sound OK? The pics below are my first three stages to get where I am.
Attachments
IMG_0189.JPG
Original track ( metal)
IMG_0189.JPG (47.77 KiB) Viewed 553 times
IMG_0187.JPG
Airbrushed Tamiya metallic steel
IMG_0188.JPG
Airbrushed Humbrol rust
User avatar
SgtMalarky
Private
 
Posts: 89
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:41 pm
Location: Sunny Gloucestershire

Postby SgtMalarky » Tue Feb 14, 2017 9:36 am

Now i washed the tracks with 50% Tamiya XF-86 and 50% thinners and some rust weathering powder.
Next is to muddy the tracks. No doubt most of the rust will be covered but i am sure some will show up.
Attachments
IMG_0198.JPG
IMG_0198.JPG (65.78 KiB) Viewed 512 times
User avatar
SgtMalarky
Private
 
Posts: 89
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:41 pm
Location: Sunny Gloucestershire

Postby Aussie » Tue Feb 14, 2017 11:37 am

Looks good so far , but don't overdo rust on tracks , they didn't really rust to much until they were knocked out and burnt.

Aussie
Corporal
 
Posts: 254
Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2016 11:49 pm
Location: Darwin , N.T. , Australia.

Postby HERMAN BIX » Tue Feb 14, 2017 1:04 pm

The material of the tracks was very resistant to outright corrosion. I have seen in person the Vimoutiers Tiger, and the LaGleise King Tiger, plus most of the well known AFV's from the Aberdeen Proving Ground in Maryland which have been outside for 70 years plus & the tracks are only very lightly tarnished.
The actual armour of the tanks in that era had a peculiar metallurgical composition which even today is highly resistant to full on oxidisation.
The tracks had a composition that can be compared to that of railway track material, and those only have surface oxidisation present.

The Panther in Hoffalize has pristine welds & only shows oxidisation in areas caused by the destructive forces that ended its service..........along with its crew. Standing on its deck was a subtlety moving moment.

The actual short combat service life before destruction or breakdown of AFV's was actually quite short.
Certainly short of deep flaking rust as we all know it.
Thin sheet metal like guards, exhausts etc- sure- they flake quickly, but the heavy metal primary components dont.

Your tracks are very nicely done, good work on them mate :thumbup:
User avatar
HERMAN BIX
Lieutenant
 
Posts: 3743
Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2014 1:15 am
Location: Gold Coast,Australia

Postby SgtMalarky » Tue Feb 14, 2017 5:05 pm

Thank you for the extremely useful feedback. I think the mud and crud should tone them down. More pucs to folow . . .

Pete
User avatar
SgtMalarky
Private
 
Posts: 89
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:41 pm
Location: Sunny Gloucestershire

Postby SgtMalarky » Fri Feb 17, 2017 4:13 pm

Hi Guys need a bit of help, I got as far as adding mud weathering powder and failed. I tried weather pigment fix then adding my 'mud' trouble was it didnt fix. So I stripped back to bear track. Took a bit of doing but I'm there. Plan 2 is to prime the track with a primer from my local car spares shop, then paint metallic steel, although the bare track with black wash currently looks quite good. So with this in mind should i forego the painting and get on with a mud enamel wash, and if i do this can i add my mud weathering powder as i go along? Will it be OK using pigment on top of wet enamel wash?
I have added a picture of what effect i am aiming for. Ignore the splashed wheel that was just something i experimented with.
Regards Pete
Attachments
IMG_0203.JPG
IMG_0203.JPG (58.98 KiB) Viewed 440 times
User avatar
SgtMalarky
Private
 
Posts: 89
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:41 pm
Location: Sunny Gloucestershire

Postby Jake79 » Fri Feb 17, 2017 4:48 pm

Best way is to let your wash dry, then brush your matt coat on let that dry then add your pigment powder using a fixer such as mig's pigment fixer..I've never heard of or seen someone add pigment on a wet wash..I suppose it could be done for a static model but on a moving model I'd recommend you use pigment fixer on a matt varnished surface.
User avatar
Jake79
Staff Sergeant
 
Posts: 984
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:10 pm
Location: Essex,Colchester, UK

Postby SgtMalarky » Fri Feb 17, 2017 5:41 pm

Thanks Jake. I'll follow that procedure and keep you posted.
User avatar
SgtMalarky
Private
 
Posts: 89
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:41 pm
Location: Sunny Gloucestershire

Postby SgtMalarky » Sun Feb 19, 2017 1:15 pm

i created a mix of Tamiya diorama paint, earth and soil, added dark mud weathering powder, a hit of rust and as the Tamiya is acrylic based, i added Tamiya XF-86 matt varnish. Painted this quite liberally onto the tracks, let it dry. Seems to be holding really well. I then borrowed the wife's nail emery board and cleaned the surfaces that will run on the road to reveal the bare metal.
Attachments
IMG_0209.JPG
IMG_0209.JPG (63.84 KiB) Viewed 389 times
User avatar
SgtMalarky
Private
 
Posts: 89
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:41 pm
Location: Sunny Gloucestershire

Postby lmcq11 » Sun Feb 19, 2017 1:44 pm

My method for the tracks is usually to paint them flat black to create a rough base for the pigments to adhere, then simply dry brush the tracks with Mig Dark Steel pigments overall, and then use some light or medium rust color pigments around the track pins. The fixer will usually tone down the rust to a realistic level. For models that i really wanted to have rusted track, i used Mig Track rust instead of Dark Steel as the main pigment.

Keep in mind that you may have to do a track overhaul once in a while to keep the effect.

Louis

lmcq11
Private
 
Posts: 51
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 8:42 pm

Postby SgtMalarky » Sun Feb 19, 2017 2:07 pm

Hi Louis
These tracks are metal so would you use a primer before the flat black?

Pete
User avatar
SgtMalarky
Private
 
Posts: 89
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:41 pm
Location: Sunny Gloucestershire

Postby lmcq11 » Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:39 pm

Oh, I do not really know if it makes a difference in the end. But keep in mind that adding a lot of rust pigments may leave a trail of pigments on the way no matter how you added them. I would not run them on the house carpet.

lmcq11
Private
 
Posts: 51
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 8:42 pm

Postby SgtMalarky » Mon Feb 20, 2017 8:19 pm

What i have created is well muddied tracks. It really seems to be anchored on pretty well. Once i freed the links i did get some lumps fall off, but now the loose stuff is gone I am pretty happy. The photo colour does not reflect the finish. The photo looks more like rust but in reality it is quite a good dried mud finish.
User avatar
SgtMalarky
Private
 
Posts: 89
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:41 pm
Location: Sunny Gloucestershire

Postby 88-bait » Wed Feb 22, 2017 9:40 pm

What I do for caked on mud is to use PVA and a Humbrol light brown of your choice. Mud usually dries on the outer limits first, so a darker shade for the middle of the wheel would be useful after the lighter shade has dried. I use it on my Sherman's and it stays put, yet can be peeled off should you need a refinish later on. Of course, fuel and oil spills go over it all, in the right places. Its actually a mucky old job, but a bit of fun, applied with a pretty big brush and will dilute a bit in water, so it gets everywhere, even in the track slots, but it don't drop out on the carpet! :D :thumbup:

88-bait
Private
 
Posts: 94
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2016 9:23 pm
Location: Pontypridd, South Wales, UK

Postby SgtMalarky » Wed Feb 22, 2017 11:28 pm

I take your point on how the mud dries. I will now modify my wheel colours. Here is where i am at with the wheels and tracks back in place. The rust and mud splashes look OK on the spare tracks. Just need to muddy the lower half of the spare tracks a bit.
Attachments
IMG_0227.JPG
IMG_0227.JPG (73.31 KiB) Viewed 315 times
IMG_0225.JPG
IMG_0225.JPG (81.1 KiB) Viewed 315 times
User avatar
SgtMalarky
Private
 
Posts: 89
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:41 pm
Location: Sunny Gloucestershire

Postby Raminator » Fri Feb 24, 2017 7:15 am

That's mud effect's very convincing, it looks great. Hope it holds up while running!
User avatar
Raminator
Corporal
 
Posts: 353
Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2015 9:57 am
Location: Newcastle, Australia

Postby lmcq11 » Fri Feb 24, 2017 8:44 am

Impressive and inspiring. I never had the guts to do this to my tanks. I'll keep an eye on the progress.

lmcq11
Private
 
Posts: 51
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 8:42 pm

Postby Tiggr » Fri Feb 24, 2017 8:45 am

Nicely done Sarg.
Looks the business. :thumbup:
User avatar
Tiggr
Sergeant
 
Posts: 581
Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2016 6:19 pm
Location: North Wales near Chester

Postby SgtMalarky » Fri Feb 24, 2017 2:48 pm

Thanks Guys
This is something i always wanted to do and am really enjoying it. To be honest it took me a while to pluck up the nerve to start and i had a bit of a problem with tracks and stripped redid them. But once i got going confidence grew.

I know its a bit premature, but this is what it looks like so far rebuilt. I have since stripped it down again to start the next phase. I am using Vallejo 995 as this the recommended but it does seem a bit dark, although my reference material tells me this the case. I would be interested in anyones thoughts and similar experiences.

Pete
Attachments
IMG_0233.JPG
IMG_0233.JPG (53.73 KiB) Viewed 269 times
User avatar
SgtMalarky
Private
 
Posts: 89
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:41 pm
Location: Sunny Gloucestershire

Postby SgtMalarky » Sun Mar 05, 2017 2:31 pm

Next stage before adding Aber Feifel deck pipes. I do not want to keep pulling the pipes off as per the plastic ones that came with the tank, so I have fitted 4 mm dia magnets into the air cleaners and small screw heads into the pipes. I will do some thing similar once i have completed the deck pipes, not sure what the solution for that will be until I have assembled the Aber kit. I will clean up the faces and fill the gaps ready for painting.
With regard to the Aber I am thinking wrap them around an 8 mm bar or tube. This seems to be about the right size. It will make them sturdy and durable. I am thinking to fit them permanently to the deck and only the pipes then will be removable.

As always, I am open to advice on this.

Peter
Attachments
IMG_0247.JPG
IMG_0247.JPG (33.96 KiB) Viewed 222 times
User avatar
SgtMalarky
Private
 
Posts: 89
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2016 5:41 pm
Location: Sunny Gloucestershire

Next

Return to Other Builds

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: AlwynTurner, PainlessWolf and 5 guests