Trumpeter/Taigen hybrid T-34/76 (obr. 1942 model)

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Raminator
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Re: Trumpeter/Taigen hybrid T-34/76 (obr. 1942 model)

Post by Raminator »

Cheers for looking in, Mick. Not an ignorant question at all, I used the Mr. Surfacer on the turret sides and Tamiya putty on the turret cheeks (either side of the mantlet). Mr. Surfacer is a pretty versatile product; it's basically a very thinned putty/primer mix that can be used to fill gaps and imperfections, as well as creating surface texture. It tends to shrink and self-level more than Tamiya putty does, so you get a smoother, softer surface (it will not hold sharp peaks or edges). It comes in different grades, and as near as I can tell, it's basically a measure of how thinned they are; Mr. Surfacer 500 is more watery than Tamiya putty mixed with lacquer thinner, and Mr. Surfacer 1000 is thinner still. I've sprayed 1000 through an airbrush before, but there's no way 500 would make it.
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Raminator
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Re: Trumpeter/Taigen hybrid T-34/76 (obr. 1942 model)

Post by Raminator »

The weather's finally changed today, we're expecting 22-23° for the remainder of the week and into the weekend. I can stop finding make-work and get onto priming!
  • IMAG0919.jpg
Like I mentioned last time, I ended up replacing the stowage hoops with metal ones. I've also flush-mounted some little neodymium magnets to help secure stowage; this one pictured here will help hold the spare wheel in place while still allowing it to rock back and forth.
  • IMAG0921.jpg
I got my hands on some of the Loctite gel that Herman, Painless and others have recommended. I've taken to re-securing some of the troublesome CA joints, like the engine grilles. The brass holds on a lot better now, and I don't have to worry that a misplaced grip isn't going to crack all the joints. I feel like the tank as a whole is a lot less fragile than it was; it's got stronger magnets, metal fixtures, geared servo mechanisms and gel glue joints. Let's see how much painting I can get done in the next couple of days!

That is, of course, assuming that self-etching primer is okay to go over the top of acrylic paint. Do I need to strip back to bare plastic for the primer to bite, or will it work over the top of the existing paintwork?
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Estnische
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Re: Trumpeter/Taigen hybrid T-34/76 (obr. 1942 model)

Post by Estnische »

Looking good Dan.

The weather has been truly awful. Not extremely hot, but humid on our east coast. Do anything and you are dripping in sweat - just ask the English cricket team. I do my painting in the garage, and I've had to just grin and bear it, with a fan on low speed to get air moving.
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HERMAN BIX
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Re: Trumpeter/Taigen hybrid T-34/76 (obr. 1942 model)

Post by HERMAN BIX »

The primer I use is a Holts Duplicolour product, Red Primer PS108 in a spray can.
Available from Autobarn stores, but other outlets might stock it.
The stuff has to be sanded vigorously to remove it, so it should burn into your old paint.
Its a genuine self-etch primer.
HL JAGDPANTHER,HL TIGER 1,HL PzIII MUNITIONSCHLEPPER, HL KT OCTOPUS,HL PANTHER ZU-FUSS,HL STuG III,HL T34/85 BEDSPRING,
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
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Raminator
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Re: Trumpeter/Taigen hybrid T-34/76 (obr. 1942 model)

Post by Raminator »

No Autobarns nearby, so I got an equivalent etching primer from SuperCheap Auto instead. I tested it on some painted scrap and found that the rattle can laid the spray down too thick, and crazed in eggshell patterns over the top of the paint. I figured it needs to be thinned down and applied with an airbrush on top of bare plastic.

I did what I thought was best, but I was wrong.
  • IMAG0930.jpg
After hitting the whole tank with Mr. Muscle, the paintwork's stripped back to primer. Unfortunately, oven cleaner reacts poorly with CA glue, so a bunch of parts and magnets got dislodged. The stringy detached paint needed scrubbing with a toothbrush to dislodge, which broke a bunch of finer details. I lost quite a few smaller bits down the laundry sink before realising the damage I'd done. The combination of caustic chemicals and water has also caused a bunch of screws to rust.

I've spent the weekend trying to repair the damage and replace the bits I could scratchbuild, but the tank isn't going to have an antenna (the antenna mount got lost down the sink, and I can't mount a scratchbuilt one to the existing brackets because they'd just fall off). I can't attach the external fuel tanks; one of the fuel tank supports got broken and the other got flushed down the sink. The headlight snapped from its bracket and the resulting fracture is too fine to hold glue, the wires are basically the only thing holding the light up.

At least it looks like the weather's going to hold out until Thursday or so, so it looks like I've got my work cut out for me. I decanted the primer from the rattle can with no issues, and it's had 24 hours for the propellant to boil off. Has anyone else tried airbrushing decanted product from an aerosol before? Am I about to make another huge mistake?
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Estnische
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Re: Trumpeter/Taigen hybrid T-34/76 (obr. 1942 model)

Post by Estnische »

Well, perhaps.

Paint and primer usually play nicely when you stick with the one paint system, e.g. Tamiya acrylics, Humbrol enamels, etc. which allow you to apply layers , like primer, colour and clear coat quickly one after another.

If you want to mix and match, then you need to identify the correct paint solvent component. E.g. Acrylic solvent, enamel solvent etc. then you should be OK. Then, after spraying, wait a good few days for the primer coat to 'gas' off. Usually when it no longer has a solvent odour, when you stick your nose on it.

There are guidelines about acrylics over enamels etc, but generally I've found most horror stories usually involve inadequate periods of time to dry allowing the more volatile solvent underneath to affect the top coats. Even then there can be issues years afterwards.

As fir stripping paint, metho works just fine on acrylic paint, which I suspect is what the Chinese use on tanks. It also is fairly kind to plastics. If you need something stronger use brake fluid, but take it off as soon as you have loosened the paint. I have seen horror stories with brake fluid too on slot car bodies - just did not play nicely with one manufacturer's plastic - so try it on a scrap piece if you want to be sure.

Be patient Glasshopper.
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c.rainford73
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Re: Trumpeter/Taigen hybrid T-34/76 (obr. 1942 model)

Post by c.rainford73 »

Mr Raminator I'm very to hear this. It maybe a long shot but does your laundry sink have a trap fitting underneath? Your loose parts maybe settled in there before they make thier long journey to the sewer. Worth a shot to take it apart and check it.

I'm sure you will work through it, you had done such inspirational work, and I really feel bad about how the paint turned out.

As they say, problems are just solutions waiting to be sorted so I trust you will make great progress soon my friend

Carl
Tanks alot.... :wave:
Dusty Steppes
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Re: Trumpeter/Taigen hybrid T-34/76 (obr. 1942 model)

Post by Dusty Steppes »

How are the recovery efforts going? You have put too much into this to not continue. Your work has given me several ideas on how to proceed with a similar build.
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Re: Trumpeter/Taigen hybrid T-34/76 (obr. 1942 model)

Post by Egorz »

Very interesting project. I monitor your work. when continuation.
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Raminator
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Re: Trumpeter/Taigen hybrid T-34/76 (obr. 1942 model)

Post by Raminator »

I appreciate the concern and commiseration, gents. Sadly none of the parts were recoverable, I undid the S-bend under the sink as soon as I realised what had happened but those little plastic bits float far too easily. There are going to be some very confused fish out there.

All is not lost though, I've been making slow but steady progress painting throughout the week. The instructions on the can recommended two light coats for extra strength, so I figured that if I water down the primer 50/50 with lacquer thinner, then four light coats should do the trick. It's a nice smooth, even finish with none of the cracking and crazing I saw when I sprayed directly from the can. Looks like the paint stripping was an unnecessary disaster, but at least I know for next time!
  • IMAG0938.jpg
I've put close to eight hours' worth of work into getting everything done with self-etching primer, maybe half of that into the roadwheels alone. I ripped out the last vestiges of the broken headlight so I can replace it with a metal one from DioramaFreak, and treated myself to a metal driver's hatch while I was there. Uwe was a star and had the order posted (with a discount on the shipping!) within hours; I'm expecting them to show up shortly.

The grey has shown up a few bits that need some filling or fixing, so once those are sorted I'll give the primer a couple days to cure and breathe per Brett's advice. Then it'll be time for 4BO and a clear coat before being sent straight to the shelf. I'm going to hold off on the weathering for now and get back to the SU-152 instead.
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