Jadgpanzer L70/V Build

[dgsselkirk]

Greetings Guys!

I haven't posted a build on here since my KT and I will not be going into that depth again!

So I will give basic outlines and let the pictures speak for themselves. I am no master and do not pretend to be. I try and do things the easiest, fastest, and cheapest way possible. That being said I did splurge on this one a bit. I had an HL Mk. IV that drove well but the turret set up and recoil was driving me crazy! Kept konking out and finally the elevation on the Clark board blew out so I decided to hell with it, scrap it and build an L70! So I broke down and bought from panzerparts his L70 kit for I think reasonable 109 euros. Less expensive than Profiline who we now have to wait to see their kits again. Panzerparts also comes with more metal detail pieces than resin that Profiline including a barrel which I did not use but more on that later! Here are the first hull reconstruction pics. As always I gutted the battery box and fill the lower hull with tough as steel resin. Also bought the metal drive covers with bearings from Panzerparts and they were really reasonable I thought. Mounted them and test fitted the engines and shafts...

[dgsselkirk]

Next some little detail parts like the mounts for the rear hull spaced armour, then started to work with the recoil. I decided I really wasn't interested in having elevation anyway so I simply made a barrel sleeve out of brass tubing and put it in the mantle. I used the asiatam one from the Mk. IV but just sort of the tray and attached a servo. What I have is a REALLY smooth recoil now! I will figure out how to post a video sometime. I did not use the barrel from the Panzerparts kit. It was too short and I don't think it was large enough caliber either. More like a 50 mm. Besides I have the BB Panthers so since this is to be the same gun I cut off the muzzle brake on an extra barrel I had, measured the length it should be to scale off my scale drawings and volia! Nice big long barrel!

[dgsselkirk]

On the next set of pics we have the work on the zim. Again, I did splurge and bought the Atak sheets of zim and cut and fit. I decided to open up the machinegun cover and install a metal LED one I had. Also did the mount and wiring for the front light. As you can see or maybe not there are metal engine covers as well.

[ALPHA]

Hey dgsselkirk ....so this is the Jagd you spoke of ... very nice... couldn't find it on the link you left on my thread...
Nice board by the way you all have some really cool meets...those guys are hard core

Thanks for posting the great pictures

Happy Tanking

ALPHA

[dgsselkirk]

Thanks Alpha, they are a pretty good bunch of guys. We don't go anal on the rules which makes it fun for everyone.

so here are some pics of the zim around the mantle. This was done by cutting small sections out of the sheet and spacing it around in a curve. Also mounted scratch built springs on the rear fender. I sliced off the bolts on the back plate of the upper hull and then put them back on after attaching the zim. The trick was once I had sliced them off I put some tracing paper over to mark where they went. Then put the zim on and laid the tracing paper on top and using a small drill (you could use a sharp pencil) marked where everything went and glued them back on. I think it worked quite well. Because they are sliced off they are a little thinner so that sitting on the zim they look about the right depth.
I am leaving the front fenders off so all I installed were some scratch built mounts. I added styrene bolts later.

[tomhugill]

Looks great! How did you find the fitting of the parts? I've been told the quality can be a bit questionable but I'd like another opinion before I go for one!

[Swamprat33]

Hiya, I have not really started research for my L48 yet, but had always wondered what the conical things (mg covers) were.
I think I will open one up to house the IR for the battle system. The conical 'plug' can be removed and refitted when required.
I did a similar thing on my Panzer IV G. It does obviously limit the benefit of elevation, but I guess I can live with it.

Tim

[dgsselkirk]

Looks great! How did you find the fitting of the parts? I've been told the quality can be a bit questionable but I'd like another opinion before I go for one!

I was O.K. with it for the price Tom. I want this tank to battle so the construction is a little heavier and cruder for strength than if you were just building it for show. The hardest part was setting up the front lower hull nose properly. I am not exact but close enough for government work!
I am pretty happy with how it all went together but you do have to do some cutting and filing but I know your work. You will have no issues!

On another note, I can hardly wait to see the Panther "F" you are sending Michael! I really was after it for myself but I had/have 4 more projects lined up so I had to pass... But Michael will let me play with it once in a while and I will have first dibs if he decides to sell it.

[dgsselkirk]

Hiya, I have not really started research for my L48 yet, but had always wondered what the conical things (mg covers) were.
I think I will open one up to house the IR for the battle system. The conical 'plug' can be removed and refitted when required.
I did a similar thing on my Panzer IV G. It does obviously limit the benefit of elevation, but I guess I can live with it.

Tim

Mine was set up for a Hammerhead so I didn't have to worry about the emitter but if I build another one that is not a bad idea! What I would do is recess the emitter enough that you could actually put the cover on a swivel so that it functions like the real one. It would not be hard to do at all. Some models actually had one on each side so you could still do one MG and one as the emitter too.

[PainlessWolf]

Good Morning,
Beautiful and involved work. For a battler, it certainly looks good enough to sit on anyone's shelf as well.
regards,
Painless

[dgsselkirk]

Thanks Painless!

The next set of pictures is the detailing of the barrel travel lock. The stock metal one that comes with the kit looks pretty good but because it is so dominant when you look at the front of the tank I decided to dress it up a little to look more like the real one. Took the pic out of my Polish L70 reference book and added the copper/styrene and brass pieces you see here. The lock is fully operational as you can see and does help to steady the barrel when I transport it around just like it should!

Also since I went to all the trouble of doing the zim on the lower hull I didn't want to cover it up by putting the side skirts on so I went with scratch building the small side mounts on the hull. The details I got from a great site for reference on most common tanks:

http://www.primeportal.net/tanks/dmitry ... anther_iv/

I know this is a later model but from what I can see the skirt mounting system was universal to the models.

[dgsselkirk]

And the next pics. This is the first time I have tried PE. It's a challenge! But starting to get the hang of it!

[ALPHA]

And just like that...you are almost done How were your eyes after doing the PE ? not sure mine would be able to take the strain
Did you ever see this video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7-OEAHV824
Different technique... but the guy just like you did a great job ...

Happy Tanking dgsselkirk

ALPHA

[dgsselkirk]

Nope, never saw that one before. For a scratch built pretty sweet. Love the rising crew commander but if I went to all that trouble I would have done recoil too. Once you did the recoil you could get rid of that terrible jerk too. A little jerk is not bad but that just is really toy like.

And it has one of the most common errors you see when guys use the Mk. IV base. They leave the auxiliary engine exhaust on the back. That is where the jack block should be mounted instead... But overall a nice job on it.

I wore my glasses plus a head double magnifier. The vision wasn't the issue it was the shaky hands! And like a lot of other guys talk about when one of those little pieces pops off good luck finding it!

And solder? Forget it. I couldn't do that I just used tiny dots of superglue. I would love to see someone post a youtube of someone soldering 1/16 PE. I just want to see it!

[ALPHA]

Nope, never saw that one before. For a scratch built pretty sweet. Love the rising crew commander but if I went to all that trouble I would have done recoil too. Once you did the recoil you could get rid of that terrible jerk too. A little jerk is not bad but that just is really toy like.

And it has one of the most common errors you see when guys use the Mk. IV base. They leave the auxiliary engine exhaust on the back. That is where the jack block should be mounted instead... But overall a nice job on it.

I wore my glasses plus a head double magnifier. The vision wasn't the issue it was the shaky hands! And like a lot of other guys talk about when one of those little pieces pops off good luck finding it!

And solder? Forget it. I couldn't do that I just used tiny dots of superglue. I would love to see someone post a youtube of someone soldering 1/16 PE. I just want to see it!

From what I've seen that guy do... he's really good... I would suspect he just did it to do it lol....in most of his builds he puts a working IR system with blowback ... seems like this one he just kept it simple... and just used the stock heng long parts

Agree on the PE parts .... Glad you did it and not me lol...It was tough when I had good eyes lol...also agree that 99.9% of the time...soldering those little pieces isn't worth the trouble...when super glue is faster...and works just the same...not to mention the brass stays stronger than when it's heated

Have a good one Dgsselkirk

ALPHA

[tomhugill]

Nope, never saw that one before. For a scratch built pretty sweet. Love the rising crew commander but if I went to all that trouble I would have done recoil too. Once you did the recoil you could get rid of that terrible jerk too. A little jerk is not bad but that just is really toy like.

And it has one of the most common errors you see when guys use the Mk. IV base. They leave the auxiliary engine exhaust on the back. That is where the jack block should be mounted instead... But overall a nice job on it.

I wore my glasses plus a head double magnifier. The vision wasn't the issue it was the shaky hands! And like a lot of other guys talk about when one of those little pieces pops off good luck finding it!

And solder? Forget it. I couldn't do that I just used tiny dots of superglue. I would love to see someone post a youtube of someone soldering 1/16 PE. I just want to see it!

From what I've seen that guy do... he's really good... I would suspect he just did it to do it lol....in most of his builds he puts a working IR system with blowback ... seems like this one he just kept it simple... and just used the stock heng long parts

Agree on the PE parts .... Glad you did it and not me lol...It was tough when I had good eyes lol...also agree that 99.9% of the time...soldering those little pieces isn't worth the trouble...when super glue is faster...and works just the same...not to mention the brass stays stronger than when it's heated

Have a good one Dgsselkirk

ALPHA

If you can solder photo etch do solder it, it's much stronger. It's not the strength of the parts that usually lets you down it's the joint. And super glue isn't always upto it.

[ALPHA]

If you can solder photo etch do solder it, it's much stronger. It's not the strength of the parts that usually lets you down it's the joint. And super glue isn't always upto it.

Cool Tom... question that there lay before us is... after soldering the photo etch.... how do you attach it to a plastic tank? Or any plastic surface
When I did do a lot of other military models... I used to invest in the PE rails and junk...never soldered a thing...just superglued them on...seems soldering irons and plastic just don't jive

Another detriment to soldering is... if you do it ugly... and file it... you thin the brass as well... so it kind of defeats the purpose ... but hey...I don't know Crabs ... so thanks for the tip

Happy Tanking Tom
http://www.combatreform.org/ARMORHISTORY/
ALPHA

[tomhugill]

I soldered most of the photo etch on my norbert build. You don't solder the outside if you can help it but do it externally. When you attach I find it best to solder some 1mm threaded rod onto the PE and then bolt it to the hull (for larger items). Really tiny stuff I'll glue. Also when I'm filling I file the solder not the item so doesn't affect the brass. The other advantage of solder is it fills gaps which CA can struggle to. Each to their own though.

[ALPHA]

I soldered most of the photo etch on my norbert build. You don't solder the outside if you can help it but do it externally. When you attach I find it best to solder some 1mm threaded rod onto the PE and then bolt it to the hull (for larger items). Really tiny stuff I'll glue. Also when I'm filling I file the solder not the item so doesn't affect the brass. The other advantage of solder is it fills gaps which CA can struggle to. Each to their own though.

Yup... main thing is you have fun doing..

Happy Tanking Tom

ALPHA

[dgsselkirk]

I sort of do the same thing on the bigger pieces Tom. I solder a little piece of copper wire and run it into the hull and then bend it down and sometimes epoxy it. I find by using a little copper wire if something hits it the copper bends whereas 1mm threaded rod snaps off. I have heard some guys talking about cold solder but haven't really looked into it...