1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Louis, I do have the optional swing arm kit. I also used the o ring as well on both ends. I think I need to reset the drive cap position on the shaft because the servo is now strong enough to actually pull all 8 of the swing arms. It might have set to tight because it wasn't turning much before.
- Raminator
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Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Ah, I didn't realise how far they wrapped around the edges between the upper and lower hull. Yeah, I really can't see a better way than having all four sections detachable the way they are. Interesting!lmcq11 wrote:Hi, I have created a basic graph to illustrate how the fenders wrap around the upper and lower hull to lock them together (not to scale). The fenders have to be pulled sideways to release them to then be able to lift the upper hull. The hull and fenders are long and contain fragile parts on them. They need the screws to properly keep them positioned and strait. If magnets can be used on the fenders and hull, they would have to be powerful ones. Magnets do not stick to the metal used on the hull. A nice challenge for others...Raminator wrote:Could the fenders be permanently attached to the lower hull with the upper removable in between? Just wondering what would be practical for long-term use.
Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Louis,
I tried the magnet route for the fenders and it is just not strong enough. However, looking at your wonderful diagram, it occur me that perhaps the fenders can be hinged to the body just enough that they can be pull far apart from the bottom to clear the lower hull so the entire upper and the fenders can be pull up. You can also magnet the fender to make sure it doesn't open up without some force. What do you think of that ? The upper can easily be magneted to the bottom so this will allow easy access to the interior.
MichaelC.
I tried the magnet route for the fenders and it is just not strong enough. However, looking at your wonderful diagram, it occur me that perhaps the fenders can be hinged to the body just enough that they can be pull far apart from the bottom to clear the lower hull so the entire upper and the fenders can be pull up. You can also magnet the fender to make sure it doesn't open up without some force. What do you think of that ? The upper can easily be magneted to the bottom so this will allow easy access to the interior.
MichaelC.
Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Interesting, thanks, i will keep this in mind for the next 234 that is on order. At this time, the 234/2 is finished.MichaelC wrote:it occur me that perhaps the fenders can be hinged to the body just enough that they can be pull far apart from the bottom to clear the lower hull
The following post is to show the model being painted and then an exterior photoshoot.
I personally do not like the idea of painting any metal mechanical parts. These are underneath the wheel or the vehicle and do not really show anyway. These are left unpainted for optimal mechanical performance and ease of maintenance.
After a base coat from a Tamiya Dark Yellow enamel spay can, the model is applied with Mig Ammo acrylics.
Mid-war Dunkelgelb RAL7028 and Olivgrun opt2 RAL6003 with a light camo scheme seen in reference.
After 2 hours of painting the small details and 2 more hours of dry pigment application with a coat of fixer, the model is finished. The main decals are from a Tamiya Jagdpanther sheet purchased on Ebay, the others are from the Metal Origin kit which i found too thick but are otherwise good for small items. The German ww2 slogan (something about dream) is from a Verlinden transfer sheet.
I know many modellers like to apply lots of mud and dirt on their models. I sometimes get comments on my Youtube channel for not applying enough mud and having my models too clean. The finish of a model is a personal preference. I like to use light weathering, first because i do not like to hide details, secondly i am not good at applying mud. I have ruined enough models to know my weathering skill limits so i leave it to others that are better than me at this. In the case of the Puma, it is a wheeled vehicle that would normally operate on roads so it is actually quite realistic to leave it pretty clean. Wartime pictures usually show the Puma in a very clean condition.
This is the model in the shade and in a technical setting.
And here is a photoshoot in the sun light in the field (the wife's garden), giving a somewhat different look.
Continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Tue Jun 22, 2021 10:33 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Regards, Louis
Last edited by lmcq11 on Wed Jun 23, 2021 7:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
And finally, here is a short Youtube video of the model operating in the field.
I've found the wheeled Puma to be a lot more at ease in the grass than a tracked tank, with almost no damage to my wife's flowers. Although she did complain i broke two branches of the nearby roses behind the camera, it's not the fault of the Puma. In comparison, the IDF Centurion and M3 Lee ravaged the place after a few shots. I blamed a rabbit on that one.
The speaker sound was set to low volume because i do not want the neighbour to send the Swat team. So, we do not hear the engine much, the gearbox and suspension are quite noisy themselves. For the guys who need much better engine sounds and want to pay for it, i would of course recommend they get the custom made Puma Elmod. But considering this is a low cost, low complexity, low risk and fast delivery Puma build, i am very happy with the results.
Regards, Louis
I've found the wheeled Puma to be a lot more at ease in the grass than a tracked tank, with almost no damage to my wife's flowers. Although she did complain i broke two branches of the nearby roses behind the camera, it's not the fault of the Puma. In comparison, the IDF Centurion and M3 Lee ravaged the place after a few shots. I blamed a rabbit on that one.
The speaker sound was set to low volume because i do not want the neighbour to send the Swat team. So, we do not hear the engine much, the gearbox and suspension are quite noisy themselves. For the guys who need much better engine sounds and want to pay for it, i would of course recommend they get the custom made Puma Elmod. But considering this is a low cost, low complexity, low risk and fast delivery Puma build, i am very happy with the results.
Regards, Louis
Last edited by lmcq11 on Wed Jun 23, 2021 7:10 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
And as customary, here is a size comparison picture with other 1/16 RC vehicles, such as the Stug IV assault gun based on the Panzer IV chassis and a Cadillac Gage V150 Commando. The Puma is the longest and is a good size vehicle.
- PainlessWolf
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Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Good Evening, Louis,
No better adverts for a Kit than to build it to a high stock standard and show what is possible without putting a lot of extra dough into it. It turned out superlatively well and the paint is great looking as well. I like my vehicles clean and ready for use in the field as well. You don't see a lot of wrack and ruin in the armor of the Panzer Armee unless you are looking at the wrack and ruins left after the battle.
Beautifully done.
regards,
Painless
No better adverts for a Kit than to build it to a high stock standard and show what is possible without putting a lot of extra dough into it. It turned out superlatively well and the paint is great looking as well. I like my vehicles clean and ready for use in the field as well. You don't see a lot of wrack and ruin in the armor of the Panzer Armee unless you are looking at the wrack and ruins left after the battle.
Beautifully done.
regards,
Painless
...Here for the Dawn...
Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build
Quite simply...
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