Problems with Heng Long Jagdpanther (PARTIALLY SOLVED)

This section is to 'show and tell' about any customizing or re-vamping you have done (or are doing) to a Heng Long tank.

Postby Rettinger » Sun Jul 14, 2019 5:04 pm

Hello!
Two months ago my gf gave me my first RC Tank as a gift. It is a Heng Long Jagdpanther (3869).
However, I've had a few problems since the start that led to a series of other consequences and more problems...
I am going to list every problem so perhaps you can help me to find a solution!!

PROBLEM 1 - Slipping tracks

After the initial shock and surprise of such an amazing present in the morning, I assembled the tank and charged the batteries to go and play with it.
After some hours the batteries were full and we went to a park to try and play with the tank.
It was amazing, super fun and a very powerful! However after a pair of hours I noticed that the tracks started to slip off the idlers; both them.
Every time I moved the tracks into place, they slipped off again. That worried me a lot.
Later that night I researched about the problem and it seems it was somehow common. Many people upgraded their tanks with metal tracks, idlers and wheels; and I thought it was a fantastic idea!

Being located in Spain, I found a German dealer and I bought the metal tracks, metal wheels and idlers.

PROBLEM 2 - Incompatible wheels

When I got the package from Germany I was excited to upgrade my tank so I started to dissasembled it. I took pictures of the command board to have a reference of how all cables were connected and carefully removed everything.
But once I liberated the hull I noticed something terrible: the metal wheels didn't matched the plastic suspension arms and I don't had the proper hardware to assemble neither the metal idlers, traction wheels or tracks.

Really pissed off, I assembled the tank again with his stock parts and I've connected everything following the pictures I took earlier. That led to another problem.

PROBLEM 3 - The tank has "died"

I had the tank assembled again. But then when I wanted to try it again, nothing happened. The battery was full, the command board had all the components correctly connected, the controller had battery and was working. But not the tank.
Every time I switched it to ON, it was like it's dead: nothing happened.

I reassembled the tank many times, double-checking all the time that I was connecting everything on the correct place.
But nothing. The tank literally died.

Totally pissed off, I decided that I was not letting it to die. I had the metal parts getting dust on a box, and with them all the money I invested.
So I placed another order to the German dealer: upgraded metal hull, "3 in 1 Pro Steel gearset flat motors long axis with full sets flange bearings" and a few other decorations.

PROBLEM 4 - Incompatibility with the motor and the command board!

When I received the package from Germany I instantly started to assemble all the parts together. This time I had all the proper hardware and I researched on a lot of pages to have an idea of how to properly work on it.

Image
Image
Image

I assembled the new metal hull, the pro motor and all the metal wheels and tracks with ease, and proceeded to connect all the other parts together again.
Then, I had another bad surprise: the cables of the new motor didn't matched with the command board.
So again, I have an expensive and amazing Tank dying on a shelve.

This is the new motor:
Image

And this is the stock command board: (Heng Long TK-6.0)
Image

PROBLEM 5 - Do I need a new command board?

I was researching a bit about the command boards and I found one that matched with the cables of my new motor:
Image

And according to the German dealer, this command board matches with the controller of the new generation Heng Long tanks like mine.
But again, this leads me to yet a new problem...

PROBLEM 6 - Will the new command board be compatible with my controller?

Okay so I can simply buy a new command board, connect all the parts together again and pray for it to work.
However, what about the compatibility with my controler? I don't know how a controller is linked to a command board, and I fear that while I can buy that new board, the controller will not recognize it...
It's like a nightmare :'(

So what can I do? Has anyone had the same or similar problems?
Right now I only wish to put that Tank back into action and enjoy the hell out of it!!
Last edited by Rettinger on Thu Jul 18, 2019 3:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby Jofaur86 » Sun Jul 14, 2019 8:35 pm

Good evening :D
The TK-6.0 is the improved vrsion of the RX 18,more faithful sounds,rolling,accélértion,etc.Possible plugged more Leds for lighting,etc.Perso i would say that the for le the Radio (TX ) is the same,just that it ill have to the " Binder " paired with the new platinum :D
Schéma TK-6.0
IMG_5368.JPG

Schéma RX 18
IMG_4763.JPG

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Postby Rettinger » Sun Jul 14, 2019 9:08 pm

Jofaur86 wrote:Good evening :D
The TK-6.0 is the improved vrsion of the RX 18,more faithful sounds,rolling,accélértion,etc.Possible plugged more Leds for lighting,etc.Perso i would say that the for le the Radio (TX ) is the same,just that it ill have to the " Binder " paired with the new platinum :D
Schéma TK-6.0
IMG_5368.JPG

Schéma RX 18
IMG_4763.JPG


Hello! The main problem is that the new motor I bought for the tank has cables with connectors that does not match with those of the TK-6.0 board. So it's like I have a new powerfull (and expensive) motor that is useless to the board and hence to the tank.
However, the previous RX 18 board has the same connectors as my new motor; so I assume I have to buy that board in order to have the Tank running. My only concern is if the controller will be recognized by the board and vice-versa :think:
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Postby Jofaur86 » Sun Jul 14, 2019 9:20 pm

Reading the post,then again to reread,I was wrong an the TK06 motor son used are with mâle pods,idem Tamiya ??you wild find this at Norauto,Midas,greens lights,etc,and you can easily reweld new wures on the ngines,do not change anything on TK ? Cause waranty,si problems.Possible also order matching ? but for me first ideal version :thumbup:

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Postby Sub » Sun Jul 14, 2019 10:46 pm

Hi.
The motors you have purchased simply have the old 5.3 version mfu plugs on, the tk6.0 has bayonet fittings for the motors you need to simply fit male (i believe ) bayonet fittings to you motor wires and plug them into the tk6.0 motor female bayonet fittings.
The transmitter as far as i know on the tk6.0 is different from the v5.3 earlier version and is not compatable as it has a totally different electronics board inside (even though it looks the same ) as the tk6.0 has many more functions than the earlier v5.3 activated by multiple combinations of the transmitter buttons.
Make sure you have plugged the power into the correct port on the tk 6.0 mfu.
And pressed the engine start button on the transmitter to wake up the mfu,

If your model came as standard with the tk6.0 version then the old motors will have had bayonet fittings didnt they ???

Hope this helps
Sub.

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Postby Rettinger » Sun Jul 14, 2019 11:10 pm

Sub wrote:Hi.
The motors you have purchased simply have the old 5.3 version mfu plugs on, the tk6.0 has bayonet fittings for the motors you need to simply fit male (i believe ) bayonet fittings to you motor wires and plug them into the tk6.0 motor female bayonet fittings.
The transmitter as far as i know on the tk6.0 is different from the v5.3 earlier version and is not compatable as it has a totally different electronics board inside (even though it looks the same ) as the tk6.0 has many more functions than the earlier v5.3 activated by multiple combinations of the transmitter buttons.
Make sure you have plugged the power into the correct port on the tk 6.0 mfu.
And pressed the engine start button on the transmitter to wake up the mfu,

If your model came as standard with the tk6.0 version then the old motors will have had bayonet fittings didnt they ???

Hope this helps
Sub.


Thanks for your answer!
That said, the RX18 board will not be compatible with my controller?

And yes, the new TK-6.0 board has bayonet fittings that are incompatible with my new motor plugs. One thing I thought was to take off the new motors (only the motors but not the metal structure) and replace them with my stock motors that came with the tank and the TK-6.0 board, but it will be a shame to have such great motors unused. Another thing that I can try is to simply swap cables, but I don't have any tool to weld them so I think it's not a good idea at all...

Still I have the problem that it looks that my tank has died. Since I dissasembled it for the first time, I didn't worked again and I've tried to plug and unplug all the components many times, with no luck :'(
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Postby Rettinger » Mon Jul 15, 2019 12:04 am

Image

I've plugged some of the stock components again, just the loud speaker and the motors to have the basics.
And again: nothing.

I've plugged everything into the right place and the battery is charged. But when I press the power on, I press the controller on and I press the start-up key (that one with a locker embeded into it) nothing happens!! There is no sound, and the motors are not responding.
After a minute or two, the controller starts to blep and the red led goes on and off.

What the hell is happening? I am doing something wrong I didn't noticed yet?
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Postby Sub » Mon Jul 15, 2019 10:13 am

Hi.
Thx for the photograph.
Sorry to say but Thats a disaster waiting to happen as i notice all the connectors are not insulated...if they have touched whilst powered on then they may have shorted and blown the board if it does not have any short circuit protection.
Never leave power cables un insulated when applying power to the board.
It could also be that the board has become un bound from the transmitter....but i dont have a tk 6.0 to help you try to re bind it sorry....some on here do have them maybe they can help.
Good luck.
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Postby Ludwig von wigbearer » Mon Jul 15, 2019 11:05 am

Hi, try rebinding the transmitter to the board to see if its no longer bound ???

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Postby Sub » Mon Jul 15, 2019 11:56 am

Hi.
First insulate all connections.

Try this ( page 9 manual... start tank )

Switch tank off, connect battery
switch transmitter on press and HOLD start button WHILST switching tank on hold until lights come on and sound.
Thats how you BIND the transmitter to the board.
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Postby Rettinger » Mon Jul 15, 2019 1:19 pm

Thanks for your replies!
I have read about the TK-6.0 board that if you plug a cable to the wrong port, may cause a malfunction or a shortcircuit to the board.
Giving that I've plugged and unplugged it many times I am starting to fear the worst: the command board may be actually damaged.

That's why when I assemble everything and I press all ON, the light does not come on and off and nothing responds.
God, I'm starting to hate that board.

Anyway, I am going to assemble the tank again with the stock parts and try to bound it; I hope it works but I certainly know the board is damaged :|
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Postby mutt71 » Tue Jul 16, 2019 3:44 am

I understand your frustration as I too am dealing with inexperience in trying to fix issues with my few Tanks. I wish you every success with "awakening" your Tank and enjoying it now and in the future. By following thus thread, I have learned a lot about issues that I am having in my own Tanks. Hang in there my friend, we are all in this together!

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Postby Rettinger » Thu Jul 18, 2019 4:00 pm

LATEST NEWS:

I tried to bond the stock TK.6-0 command board many times with no result. I can state that this board is oficially dead :'(

I found a cheap RX.18 + controller + speaker and bound cable on a Spanish RC dealer site and I bought it. I have succefully bond the new old RX.18 board (with the controller it came with) and I finally have the Jagdpanther running again!! :) So I partially solved my issues with the Jagdtiger!! Now it's running and it's simply amazing how the new motor, the metal hull and the all metal suspension, wheels and tracks behaves!! It has been worth all the headaches and invested money.

However, this good news are leading to more issues...

THE STOCK PARTS OF MY JADGTIGER ARE FROM A MUCH NEWEST VERSION THAN THE RX.18 BOARD!!!!

Everything from my Tank was designed and manufactured to run with the newest TK.6-0 command board. This means that now with the RX.18 board I bought I downgraded the whole thing and while the tank runs and makes sounds, the smoke unit, elevator, lights and BB system is not compatible thus not working. I feel a bit stupid, but thanks to all this I am learning a lot.

What can I do now? Should I have to buy all the older parts per separate and replace the stock/newer parts with them?
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Postby Sub » Thu Jul 18, 2019 4:53 pm

Hi.
You could have bought a new TK6.0 board and transmitter from Andrew at HAYA rc tanks.

http://www.hayaltd.co.uk

Go to menu, catagories, accesories general tank parts and its there.

About £60.00 UK pounds.
Give him a ring and he may be able to supply a new TK6.0 board on its own for you....then problem solved.
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Thu Jul 18, 2019 7:02 pm

https://www.hayaltd.co.uk/heng_long_24G ... 80723.aspx
Here's a more direct link to the unit Sub mentioned.
Where a measure of interchangeability, or backwards compatibility, was present in some earlier iterations of HL control systems, this is not the case now. Even the 8-pin connectors that link turret functions to the controller can vary.
Thus 'mix and match' configurations are only like to produce frustrating problems. :problem:
On the plus side, your fund of knowledge is building rapidly (like your expenditure :D ) and at the end of it all, you'll have a great looking and well-performing Tank! :thumbup:
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Thu Jul 18, 2019 7:28 pm

As a footnote to the foregoing, using crimp type bullet connectors to connect the motors to the controller would have been fairly straightforward. A crimping tool and an assortment of connectors can be had online fairly cheaply. They're also fairly easy to use.
This one can be had cheaply on Amazon. Just ensure that the joints are fully insulated, as Sub suggested.
Crimping kit.jpg
Crimping kit
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Postby Jofaur86 » Thu Jul 18, 2019 10:42 pm

I link that now we will have to resume wiring? To achieve this, you need soldering iron 30/50 watts,
Solder,and thermo sheath for isolated,this seal wiring diagram RX 18 before TK-0.6
35DF325B-F1DB-4DAD-B729-BB0E2AFB1F2A-235-0000002417B63875.jpg
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BEAA01DD-0218-4F40-8D40-9B5AF9DDC389-235-000000248277332A.png
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D1119927-E04E-414B-BF13-0F0385E8645E-235-00000024E221A6B9.jpg
D1119927-E04E-414B-BF13-0F0385E8645E-235-00000024E221A6B9.jpg (20.96 KiB) Viewed 850 times

https://www.rc-panzershop.fr/ekmps/shop ... /hl2.4.pdf

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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Thu Jul 18, 2019 10:53 pm

It was this thread that gave me the idea to post this. . . .

Simple way to connect wires. - RC Tank Warfare
viewtopic.php?f=38&t=28056
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Postby Jofaur86 » Thu Jul 18, 2019 11:15 pm

Principle and color CN 8 wiring Taigen,Heng Long,etc.
IMG_5365.JPG
IMG_5365.JPG (40.93 KiB) Viewed 843 times

This is the color of the wires of the connecting,cable from CN 8 on RX 18 and the 8 pin plug on the upper châssis ,on which are connected all the motors,rotation,elevation,shot,etc :wave:

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