My Tiger Tank Project

This section is to 'show and tell' about any customizing or re-vamping you have done (or are doing) to a Heng Long tank.

Postby Jimster » Thu Jan 10, 2019 3:43 am

Super easy install! I still need to mash the edges down for a more form fitting look. I know this is redundant for most of you but I’m continuously amazed at how much better my tank looks with each additional detail part. It’s transforming from an inexpensive “toy” into a fairly nice model. Thanks to everyone that has helped me along the way.
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Postby Jimster » Fri Jan 11, 2019 4:45 pm

I must be crazy. I’m going down the same rabbit hole that did with model railroading. Prototype accuracy. I’m really wanting to model an initial production “Leningrad” Tiger. Since I’m going through the trouble of adding a metal Taigen hull I might as well go all out. I guess I’ll have to scratchbuild the saddle bag side storage bins and since the new hull comes with a new backside I’ll model it to mimic the #100 without the air cleaners and such. I have to remove the side skirts as well, remove the turret escape hatch and add the extra pistol gun port. I also removed my beloved mesh screens over the engine bay grills as they weren’t on the initial Tigers. There’s many other changes to be made but we’ll see just how far I’ll go. I’m just very intrigued by the look of the initial production Tigers and I don’t see very many models of them. It may not turn out 100% accurate but it’ll be close.
This project has definitely taken a turn. This isn’t a hobby, it’s an addiction! Help!
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Postby jarndice » Fri Jan 11, 2019 5:44 pm

If you are serious about building an early early Tiger 1 there really is a lot of detail changes you will need to do.,
The front fenders can be made by adapting the existing fenders but the rear fenders will have to be scratchbuilt they simply do not resemble the later rear fenders in anyway at all, I had to build my own after searching the web for months to no avail,,
The tow ropes were reversed on the early Tigers,
The Air cleaners were two pots on one base unlike the later all in one units,
The Exhaust shrouds were rectangular instead of semi-circular which are easily made out of photo-etch,
There were two vision ports above the drivers vision slit,
The gunners binocular sights on the main gun mantlet were flat not raised as in the later early tiger,
Tamiya make a Sprue which can be bought separately this includes the early main gun mantlet and the early air cleaners,
The fire extinguisher was mounted over the leading right side engine bay behind and in line with the radio aerial,
Peddinghous sell a sheet of Fire extinguisher decals.
The starting handle was mounted on the lower right quarter on the back panel and there was no spare track holder on the front of the hull,
There is more but that's enough for now.
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Postby Jimster » Fri Jan 11, 2019 6:00 pm

Thank you, Jarndice! I do have my work cut out for me but I may not cover every detail change. It may not result in a blue ribbon model but I’ll be happy with it. The side storage bins will be a big challenge but I think I can make it happen with sheet styrene. I also think I can cobble together some rear mud flaps as well. Thanks for heads up and support. This forum is the most helpful modeling tool of all.
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Postby jarndice » Fri Jan 11, 2019 6:24 pm

If you go to ----
http://www.ludwigs-hobby-seite.de/Tiger1zubehoer.html
and scroll down.
they sell the early Tiger 1 side pods and a blanking plate to cover the hole when you remove the rear stowage box for 25 euros plus postage.
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Postby Jimster » Fri Jan 11, 2019 7:41 pm

Thanks for fixing the link but I can’t figure out how to actually order it on the website. My German is rusty. It doesn’t appear to be too difficult to scratch build them but I would enjoy the convenience of having that kit. Ever time I turn around I’m introduced to tons of nice detail parts online. Almost makes my head spin.
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Postby jarndice » Fri Jan 11, 2019 7:51 pm

Hi, Chris (Ludwigs) is a member of this Forum,
To order from him you have to E-Mail him telling him what you want and he will take it from there,
Don't worry his English is better than mine.
You will need a PAY-PAL Account.
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Postby jarndice » Fri Jan 11, 2019 8:05 pm

If you are having difficulty contacting Chris by E-Mail I suggest you go to the top of this page and click on Certified Vendors you will see "Chris3" if you PM him he will put you right.
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Postby Jimster » Fri Jan 11, 2019 8:12 pm

Sweet. I’ve already emailed him and I want to thank you very much for your help.
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Postby Jimster » Fri Jan 11, 2019 8:46 pm

Wardog, you are spot in every way. Absolutely great words of wisdom.
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Postby HERMAN BIX » Fri Jan 11, 2019 11:26 pm

When you remove the HL stowage bin it also means no elevation unit.
You will need to do something else to restore your elevation .
Real real early Tugers, sometimes called “ Leningrad “ Tigers had no mudguards at all.
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Postby Jimster » Fri Jan 11, 2019 11:31 pm

Oh no! This elevation issue is serious. Thank you for pointing that out. On a bright note, look what was delivered to my house today:
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Postby Jimster » Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:09 am

I installed the new gear boxes in the metal hull this evening and then realized I wanted Taigen metal road wheels, drive sprockets and idlers to keep the drive components all Taigen metal parts. I wish I had thought this all through because shipping from England to the USA is expensive.
Quick question. There’s only two screws holding each gearbox to the metal deck. Should I have used some form of thread locker? They seem very secure but what is the recommendation from the group?
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Postby Jimster » Sat Jan 12, 2019 4:09 am

True. This metal hull is such a huge leap in quality over the HL plastic hull. Way more solid and hefty. Right now I’m enjoying looking it over and examining all the solid engineering in the torsion system. Beautiful. That’s why I’m going with all Taigen metal wheels. There’s no turning back!
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Postby jarndice » Sat Jan 12, 2019 7:53 am

Hi,
I would strongly recommend you fit "Gearbox output Shaft Bearings/Bushes" to the outside exit hole of the Metal Hull,
These dampen out any stress on the Gearbox Mountings at one end and reduce the "Flex" that could cause the Sprocket to throw a track at the other end,
To help the output shaft to slide through the bearings/Bushes on first fit I suggest spraying a WD-40" product "Specialist Anti Friction DRY PTFE Lubricant" along the shaft,
It also makes a great alternative to grease for lubricating the gearboxes.
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Postby Jimster » Tue Jan 15, 2019 12:58 am

Hooray. I’m sorry if this build thread is dragging along but today I received my “aerial” (as you Brits call them) metal bucket and 2 jerry cans from Forgebear. I also used the search feature to watch RC Mojo videos about using the Taigen metal hull for my Heng Long Tiger. My hull came with absolutely no directions but now I know just what goes where and what parts do what. I feel so much better about going forward with this project. I’ve got metal hatches on the way from EBay to allow access to my relocated on/off switch. Those RC Mojo videos are absolutely required for anyone doing what I’m doing. Thanks again to all who have offered advice. The journey continues!
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Postby Jimster » Wed Jan 16, 2019 2:44 am

Made some progress. Watching the RC Mojo YouTube videos helped me 100%. I installed the new steel gear boxes and motors into the metal hull. I had to buy two small self tapping screws to properly mount the gearboxes. The base plate had provisions for two screws but I added a third for strength. I used blue thread locker on all mounting screws. I installed the on/off switch in it’s proper location (yes, I have new metal driver and radioman hatche’s on the way) and I temporarily installed the chassis electronics to test out the motors, sounds and smoke. Everything runs smoothly and works perfectly so far. I went ahead and applied a bit of white grease to the gear teeth. Now I’m waiting for the metal wheel set to arrive. Thanks for checking in.
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Postby Jimster » Thu Jan 17, 2019 1:21 am

Hooray! My metal wheels arrived from Forgebear! I can hardly believe how fast I received my orders from across the pond but I’m not complaining. I pulled all the rubber tires off and scrubbed all the wheels in hot soapy water. Then I baked them in the oven. Later tonight I’ll spray paint them. This is really going to add some heft to my Tiger. Thanks, Forgebear!
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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Thu Jan 17, 2019 2:24 am

Wardog wrote:Just a note be careful what you put in the oven.
Ok probably doesn't contain lead. :thumbup:
I've heard of someone putting gun pellets in the oven.

So, an oven goes up to about 250 degrees centigrade.
Lead melts at around 330 degrees centigrade. . . .
Pray tell, what happened :think:
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Postby Jimster » Thu Jan 17, 2019 2:48 am

I set my oven to 150 F just to dry the wheels. Not too hot but definitely dried them out quickly. I do them same thing after cleaning my black powder cartridge cases.
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