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King Tiger in process

This section is to 'show and tell' about any customizing or re-vamping you have done (or are doing) to a Heng Long tank.

Postby Norton1 » Thu Dec 07, 2017 1:01 am

Well I swore I would not do anything to this tank but have fun with it. Well having fun is modifying it for me. I guess I have been building cars and bikes for so long that anything I touch gets modified in some way. I have already posted a couple of things I did, partially fixed the turret shakiness, fixed the hubs so they don't fall out, and now the painting begins. I pulled the tracks off and repainted them and the driver wheels and rear roller wheels. I had some extra track parts so glued them to the turret, could use some more if anyone has them to throw away (rubber or metal), and started modifying some troops to go with the tank. It's not fancy but I expect to continue to mess with it.
As it was
20171205_172708 (1) (700x525).jpg
As it was

As it is
20171206_135726 (1) (700x525).jpg
side view
20171206_135932 (700x525).jpg
rear end
20171206_135940 (700x525).jpg
close rear
20171206_135948 (700x525).jpg
front close

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Postby jarndice » Thu Dec 07, 2017 1:10 am

Might I suggest that one of the first things you get rid of are those awful and inaccurate Heng Long Decals, :lolno:
They ruin a good paint job,
"Peddinghaus" in Germany, and "Archers" and "Elite" in the USA make some very nice and ACCURATE Decals in 1/16, :thumbup:
Shaun.

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Postby Norton1 » Thu Dec 07, 2017 2:52 am

Yeah the decals are pretty bad. But they came with the model and I haven't really looked for others. I'll check out the places you suggested. Thanks!

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Postby PainlessWolf » Thu Dec 07, 2017 3:08 am

Good evening, Norton1,
Firstly, Welcome to the Forum! That's a great tank you have there and deserving of a good build. I have one from when they were first released. It is a duplicate of yours with the metal add-ons and such. I did a minor detail job on mine and sat it aside to run every now and then. Years later, it is on my list for an intensive redo with a metal Taigen lower and running gear and a paint job and Clark board, etc. Enjoy yours, they are really a lot of fun and good runners all around.
regards,
Painless
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A runner more than a looker, the years have only added to this giant tank's physical impact when viewed up close.JPG
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Postby Norton1 » Thu Dec 07, 2017 3:46 am

I am looking for some better decals and Archer seems to have some really good ones. With this paint scheme what version of decals should I be looking for? Ardennes? Eastern front? I like what you have done with yours. Couple of nice touches that I will gladly steal!

I painted the metal tracks on mine. I was a bit perplexed at first about taking them off, then went, Duh-oh, I was in the mechanized infantry for 3 years and a simple remove the pin and off they came! I know the black paint will wear off but that's what I figure will give it a bit of age as it grows. The thing certainly has plenty of power! And seems to run forever on a 3800 mah battery. Everything on this tank works. Even the smoker, kind of pathetic, but it works. I ordered a micro fan to modify it as I found a pretty cool way to change it from a you tube video.

Thanks for the welcome! I'll see you around here for sure!

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Postby PainlessWolf » Thu Dec 07, 2017 4:16 am

Norton1,
Everything you're proposing to do to your tank sounds great. You've got the bug for sure. I painted my tracks too with a Hammerit dark bronze that is wearing nicely on the protruding cleats. These Porsche turreted King Tigers saw duty in Normandy after D-Day and were all destroyed by the time the Falaise Gap was closed. I've only ever seen them with a Zimmerit coating on the lower armor and some Mid War paint schemes. There was one in the Battle of the Bulge ( I think ) and maybe one in Romania in the final days of the war. Knowledgeable folk around here will fill in those gaps. Here is a link to help out: http://www.worldwar2aces.com/photo.htm
regards,
Painless
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Postby Norton1 » Thu Dec 07, 2017 5:54 pm

Interesting photos! They really didn't have much for markings on them it appears. An Iron Cross below the driver is the most prevalent. I think I may have overdressed mine!

I did contact Archer and they referred me to the German outfit. Archer said theirs doesn't attach well to anything but flat surfaces. From what I can see the ones I would be using all would sit on flat surfaces. So I will likely go with them. Even though I only get one shot at putting them on! The kits I saw on ebay all contained enough decals to do 2 tanks so that would allow for a mistake or two.

Thanks for the link to the original photos. I guess I am not all that interested in being perfect but close will work for me.

Be well,
Steve

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Postby jarndice » Thu Dec 07, 2017 6:21 pm

Steve Hi, A Word of warning concerning "Archers" Decals do check that what you have is "Water Slide" Decals because they also sell Applique Decals which are applied using pressure instead of Warm Water,
There is a secret to applying Water Slide Decal's,
It is two little bottles one is named "Micro-Set" and the other is named "Micro-Sol",
A shallow saucer of tepid water, cut out the decal, (Cut it close as quite often the decal sheet is printed out with all the decals joined up which means you could if your not careful be applying the whole sheet in one go :{ ),
Brush the "Micro-Set" over the surface in copious amounts, Slide the Decal into place and tease it into the exact position,
(If it snags lift the crumpled mess back into the saucer and it will unravel and try again)
Dab the decal free of the "Micro-Set and then apply the "Micro-Sol",
THIS IS IMPORTANT The decal will crumple and look dreadful, LEAVE IT ALONE,
Go get a cup of coffee and when you come back it will have started to merge into the Paint and the next day it will not look like a decal, It will look like it is painted just like the original, Trust me it is without doubt the most effective way of applying decals bar none.
A Tip Write the number (1) on the top of the cap of the "Micro-Set" and (2) on the top of the cap of the "Micro-Sol" You will get them mixed up otherwise :{ I promise.
Shaun.

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Postby SovereignZuul » Thu Dec 07, 2017 7:00 pm

Looking forward to seeing your progress Norton! :thumbup:
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Postby midlife306 » Thu Dec 07, 2017 7:33 pm

Excellent tip that Shaun
Cheers
Wayne


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Postby Max-U52 » Thu Dec 07, 2017 7:36 pm

Welcome aboard. Nice tank. Just so you know, the biggest problem with the HL decals is that no German tank had a four digit ID number, they used a three number system.

Also, the cross on the tank is a "Balkan" cross. The more stylized version associated with honors such as The Blue Max, is the "Ritter" cross, and the swastika is the "Hakenkruez", but I may have mis-spelled that one.
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Postby Norton1 » Thu Dec 07, 2017 10:48 pm

Great tip Shaun, Thanks! I did go with the German outfit as Archer sent me a lengthy letter telling me the issues with their waterless ones. They suggested the waterslide were much better for my application. I'll hit a hobby shop and pick up the two items you mentioned before I do the decals. I did decals as a kid building Revell models so am fairly familiar with them and some of the issues associated. Your post certainly clarified the process so they look painted on instead of looking like decals.

I am much obliged for the help!

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Postby jarndice » Fri Dec 08, 2017 6:39 am

Steve, I mentioned Decals being printed on one sheet with no separation between the individual decals,
Pedinghaus is one of those people who do that, So cut the decal very close or you will have a lot of excess clear transfer that is a true pain to cut off once the decal is in place.
Also their decals are top quality BUT they are VERY VERY Thin,
Take your time and make sure you have a set of tweezers and a paint brush at hand because you might need to take two or three goes getting the decal sited.
Remember use plenty of "Micro-Set" on the area first.
Shaun.

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Postby Norton1 » Fri Dec 08, 2017 6:40 pm

Will do Shaun - Thanks again!

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Postby jarndice » Fri Dec 08, 2017 7:52 pm

Max said that no Tiger carried more than three digits on the Turret---Well yes and no, Steve (Norton1) has a Tiger 2 and Max is right, No Tiger 2 had four digits on its turret,
BUT Tiger 1s of 13./SS-Panzerregiment 1 From July 1943 carried Turret Numbers---1305---1304----1311----1312----1313----1314----1321----1322----1323----1324----1331----1332----1333 and 1334, But Max is absolutely right when he says no Tiger2s carried 4 digits on the Turret,
The Heng Long Decals are grossly inaccurate because they start in the 3000 series and no German Heavy armour had numbers as high as that.
By the way my source is "Tigers in Combat 11 by Wolfgang Schneider"
Shaun.

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Postby Max-U52 » Fri Dec 08, 2017 8:27 pm

jarndice wrote:Max said that no Tiger carried more than three digits on the Turret---Well yes and no, Steve (Norton1) has a Tiger 2 and Max is right, No Tiger 2 had four digits on its turret,
BUT Tiger 1s of 13./SS-Panzerregiment 1 From July 1943 carried Turret Numbers---1305---1304----1311----1312----1313----1314----1321----1322----1323----1324----1331----1332----1333 and 1334, But Max is absolutely right when he says no Tiger2s carried 4 digits on the Turret,
The Heng Long Decals are grossly inaccurate because they start in the 3000 series and no German Heavy armour had numbers as high as that.
By the way my source is "Tigers in Combat 11 by Wolfgang Schneider"
Shaun.


So what did the numbers mean? With three digits I believe it was company, platoon and tank. I also notice all the four digit numbers start with 1. What's up with that? This is the first I'm hearing of four digits on German tanks so any info you have is appreciated.
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Postby jarndice » Fri Dec 08, 2017 9:28 pm

Max Hi, What do the numbers mean ?
I used to think that the first two (13) were the indicator of the Regiment (13 Panzerregiment) and the last two being individual identifiers,
But while Herr Schneider does emphasise the unique numbering of this Regiments Tanks he offers no explanation for it,
So my reasoning until I have a good but different explanation is the one I am sticking with. :haha:
By the way the COs Tank in the Regiment was initially 1305 which was replaced by 1304 later.
The accepted view that Tiger1s and 2s always carry three digits on the Turrets whilst that is universal on Army Tiger 1 and 2s only rarely applies to Tanks in the "SS" Schwere (Heavy) Battalions,
For instance the same Regiment (13/) Being an SS Regiment Started out carrying the Turret identifiers "S" (Schwere) 501 and the rest of the regiment carried "S" then just two numbers such as S10--S11--S13 up to S42.Other SS regiments prefixed two numbers on their Turrets with either "A" "B" "C" depending on the Companie,
Some Tigers carried no numbers on the turret at all indeed Schwere SS - Panzer Abteilung 53 only the first Companie carried Turret Numbers,
They were 100---111---112---113---114---121---122---123---124---131---132---133---134, The two other Companie, A total of 25 Tigers carried no numbers,
If you want a good nights sleep I can offer much greater detail, :haha:
Shaun.

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Postby Max-U52 » Fri Dec 08, 2017 9:40 pm

No, I think that will do and I should sleep OK. ;)

I always thought the system was much simpler, even though I knew about the "S24" type numbers. But I've always heard the HL numbers are totally inaccurate, and that seems to still be true. :)
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Postby PainlessWolf » Fri Dec 08, 2017 9:47 pm

Good afternoon,
The four digit _Heng Long_ supplied decals all correspond to the model number of the tank in their catalog. They are completely fantasy as far as unit numbers go. I cannot speak with any authority on four digit unit numbers for actual German Armor.
regards,
Painless
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Postby Tiggr » Sat Dec 09, 2017 7:04 pm

Hi Steve

How well does your HL KT perform turning corners ?
Mine was rubbish on the living room carpet, let alone outside on grass or gravel

In fact I go as far as to say it was "piss poor" :thumbdown:
(Mine is the HL "Pro" version with metal tracks and gearboxes)

I have a metal Torro version which can run rings around the HL version.

Regards

Paul
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