ska2d2's Panzer III Build(II)

This section is to 'show and tell' about any customizing or re-modeling you have done (or are doing) to a Heng Long tank.
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This section is for posting a build log of your Heng Long tank.
Questions relating to issues you are having with your tank(s) should be posted in the General Questions forum here: viewforum.php?f=14
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jarndice
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Re: ska2d2's Panzer III Build(II)

Post by jarndice »

Great build, Buckeyes advise on debonder is spot on, every Tank I get I strip right down and ZAP Z7 is brilliant, a word of advise first do clean off the residue when you have finished and do insist on ZAP because a number of other products are only for removing superglue from your skin, which can be helpful just not in this case. Please carry on with a great project. shaun
I think I am about to upset someone :haha:
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ska2d2
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Re: ska2d2's Panzer III Build(II)

Post by ska2d2 »

Cheers for the advice! I went and bought some 'Zap' debonder and i was able to remove all the parts without breaking them, "result"! As feared the tread plate didn't fare as well despite not using a knife! I've got some 'Aber' tread plate on order and as soon as it arrives i will post a "putting it right" blog for anyone thats interested! In the meantime as soon as i get a chance i will post some more of my build to date! Once again many thanks for some great advice! :thumbup:
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buckeye36
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Re: ska2d2's Panzer III Build(II)

Post by buckeye36 »

I'm glad it worked out for you.
Tamiya Tiger 1, Tamiya M4 (105) HVSS, Tamiya Jagdpanther G1, ElMod Jagdpanther G2, ElMod KV-1E, ElMod StuG 40 G
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ska2d2
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Re: ska2d2's Panzer III Build(II)

Post by ska2d2 »

Hello again! Here is some more of my build. This time i will be explaining the rear armour modifications and heat shield build.
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Starting off i added a strip of plastic to the bottom edge of the rear armour to form a lip. Its quite clear in photos of the tank that the armour plate doesn't finish flush with the underside of this structure so its a very easy fix!
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Some more grills made in the same way as described earlier.
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Its worth pointing out now that when you mark out for the grills leave them short at the back so that they clear the idler adjuster mount.
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The grills glued in place. The gap between the grills is for a 'smoke grenade' rack.
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The 'smoke grenade' rack was made from plastic strip and the releases from triangular profile plastic. I have deliberately made the compartments shallow so that the 'on/off' switch will fit above.
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Dry fitted.
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Fine chain was added from the spares box and held in place by super glue and fuse wire. These chains would by pulled by infantry following closely behind the tank to release a grenade from the rack.
The 'sheet metal deflector' at the rear of the tank has been quite a difficult part to find a photo of. It seems to me that this structure was a very flimsy addition to the development of the tank, (late J and L up to the introduction of the deep wading exhaust on the M), as it is almost always heavily damaged when pictured in photographs. The 'Panzer Tracks 3.3' book is a great help but its always a plus to have a photograph to help with positioning! :haha: For anyone interested i have found one picture! Google search (panzer III images) and scroll down the page until you come to 'Axis History Forum-Panzer III tank pictures' Click on this link and then scroll down to the 24th photo and "hey presto"! ;)
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I first separated the 'sheet metal deflector' from the exhaust and cleaned up the mold lines.
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Here i have added metal tube to the ends of the exhaust pipes to slightly lengthen them and to add some depth to the openings.
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Deflector end plates were made from the bottom of an old tobacco tin.
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The end plates, exhaust and deflector glued together with additional plastic strip added underneath for strength and to square up the assembly.
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As you can see from the photo below the final positioning of the deflector is completely different from that of the model 'out of the box'!
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Lastly, everything together.
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The chains need looping back to the rack to finish.
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:wave:
Last edited by ska2d2 on Tue Apr 21, 2020 10:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Wildboar44
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Re: ska2d2's Panzer III Build(II)

Post by Wildboar44 »

Hey Ska.......... had a dream last night , there was this guy who ran a scale model making company called SKA Productions .. you just
emailed your Styrene creations that you needed ..... then you go to bed and when you wake up .... :thumbup: Boom those impossible
tricky one off parts are all made sitting by the alarm clock !

You should go into full time production .... you wont be short of customers :wave:

Here is a donation to get your company started 8)

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Yesterday is our history, Tomorrow is an eternal mistery, Today is a gift, its why its called "The Present".
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ska2d2
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Re: ska2d2's Panzer III Build(II)

Post by ska2d2 »

Hey! Judging by your 'Tiger' build your pretty handy yourself! How about 'Ska & Co'
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littletankman
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Re: ska2d2's Panzer III Build(II)

Post by littletankman »

Nice work mate love it . When I made my Stug III I replaced the exhausts with styrene tube to allow the smoke to flow through them . This is an excellent build will look forward to it finished.

Andy
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jarndice
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Re: ska2d2's Panzer III Build(II)

Post by jarndice »

Apart from watching this build in awe could I offer a tip? If you need to relocate your smoker to somewhere else in the hull, Bendy Straws fit inside the plastic tube that leads out of the smoker. The straws are cheap, readily available, long but easily trimmed and very flexible. You really can put the smoker anywhere in the hull that suits you. shaun
I think I am about to upset someone :haha:
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ska2d2
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Re: ska2d2's Panzer III Build(II)

Post by ska2d2 »

Hello! :wave: Thank you for your messages and advice as it is much appreciated. :thumbup:
Right! Since i last posted i've put right the front tread plates and repositioned the running lights etc. I have also remade the headlamps using DIY vacuum forming. A process that i will explain.
The 'Aber' tread plate arrived in the post last week and the first thing that struck me about it is that its very thin.(see below). Cutting and glueing it requires a great deal of patience and as it turns out multiple attempts! I went from being "upset" that one sheet would have done both sides to "relieved" that i had ordered two.
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The damaged areas were scrapped and sanded smooth. This needs to be redone if your first attempt fails as every lump and bump will show through the tread plate.
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The way that worked for me was to use 'Zap a Gap' quickly spread over the area to be covered. A cloth for removing the excess was handy. I positioned the plate along the outside edge of the fender along the line of the original molding. This is the crucial part as this is where using a thicker super glue gives you those vital seconds to get positioning right. Once this is done its a case of pressing down inward away from the outside edge.
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Second attempt.
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Fourth attempt. Getting the hang of it now. :shifty: To summarise, i've had more fun spending £22 but i'm already considering repeating the process for all the areas with moulded on tools. :wtf: :crazy:
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I had to remove the toolbox on the right, facing, of the tank to replace the tread plate. This would have been removed and turned anyway as it faces the wrong way out of the box. The hinges should face forward.
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The 'hasp and staple' are made from 0.5 flattened brass rod.
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Plastic rod for hinges.
Next up the headlights.
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As you can see the 'after market' upgrades are an improvement but painted red they would still do 'noddy' proud. To be honest its not so much the lamp as the thickness of the upright that really lets it down.
In order to remake them the first job was to remove the LED and stalk from the original light.
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Once removed the damage was repaired and the front cover reattached. This is going to be the pattern used for vacuum forming. When forming semi-spherical shapes additional height is crucial unless you want your shape to resemble a trumpet. What you need is enough excess to remove the flared part at the base of the mould. The finished pattern is held in place on the vacuum box with more double sided tape.
Anyone put off at having a go at 'vacuum forming' shouldn't be! What should be remembered is that it is a "trial and error" process that doesn't always produce good results every time. This aside when you find your rhythm it is rewarding. (PLEASE! I don't advocate anyone putting plastic under a grill unless its done "WITHOUT ANY DISTRACTION" and in a "WELL VENTILATED" space)!!!!! :thumbup:
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I made the vacuum box from an old kitchen base unit end panel and some rubber draft excluder. Rather than use PVA to glue the edges during assembly i used bathroom silicone sealant. (A trip to the shed). The draft excluder helps produce a good seal between the box and frame.(pictured) The frame is A5 in size. This means one sheet of plastic will be enough for two moulds. Each mould will cost around 65p. :D I use 'double sided' tape to attach the plastic to the frame and then cut the plastic to size using the frame as a guide. I use 1mm thick sheet. The plastic is going to stretch over and around your pattern and will end up much thinner than it started, so don't go too thin!
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When putting the frame and plastic under the grill the instinctual thing to do is to put it in plastic up, DON'T. Place the plastic down on a dish. If it does go horribly wrong the plastic won't go everywhere! This, more importantly, will stop the edges of the plastic curling up as it warms up. You need enough space between the grill and frame to be able to see what the plastic is doing. The grill i use is electric, set to 100. Remember your softening the plastic "NOT" melting it! As it warms up the plastic will ripple and sag. This is fine. "KEEP" watching and the surface will then go taut like a drum skin. I count to two at this point and remove it! As you can see in the photo the vacuum box has 2"1"PSE on three sides at the top to allow quick and precise location of the frame. Locate the frame, start your hoover(Dyson) and press down.
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Done successfully this is the result! "Keep it clean please"! @)
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Here the mould has been removed and the excess sanded off.
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X2
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Brass tube(2.3mm) added and wires fed through ready for new LED's. I'm going to replace the 6mm originals with 3mm.
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The moulded mount was removed and sanded flat.
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A new location point was made with 3mm plastic and aluminium tube and glued in place inside the hull.
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And filled.
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Brass tube sanded into a cone and plastic mount base added.
Finally the best bit.
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I've rewired the running lights and horn with brass wire. Where the wire meets the cable housing i drilled a hole diagonally inwards towards the hull and pulled the wires through to give the impression that they go into the cable housing.
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:wave:
Last edited by ska2d2 on Tue Apr 21, 2020 4:16 pm, edited 6 times in total.
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Wildboar44
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Re: ska2d2's Panzer III Build(II)

Post by Wildboar44 »

.

OMG.......... does your talents know no boundries ? .


I looked at your horn wiring and I could swear my mind played the Dukes of Hazard horn sound !

Arise Sir Ska ...... vacuum forming your own parts 10/10

ps.... when your done with your panzer III build , by your wood working skills on that box...any chance you
can put my shelves up ?.....

Well done Ace :thumbup:
Yesterday is our history, Tomorrow is an eternal mistery, Today is a gift, its why its called "The Present".
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