1 Kompanie PzAbt 101 Tiger 131 Walter Hahn Project Diary

[Wildboar44]

Updated 18-11-2019

Mid-Production Upper Hull changes


Ok Peoples ..... heavy workload means not as far up the build as I planned but here is the latest .......

First was opening up the molded lines between the mudguards with a fine razor saw, just adds a little detail (and its free too ! )While I was doing this I added a small notch between the main front mudguard and the side extention to simulate two separate parts

Fine saw used to open up mudguard joints

Then It was time to add the armoured Hull vent cover. When i dremmelled off the tools I only took out the centre panel and left the upsatand (as the part was yet to arrive ). As it turned out I need not have done this as it is clearly designed to go straight on top. I had to add some 0.5mm styrene to the base of the armoured vent to give it a slightly raised profile.

Armoured Hull vent added

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Next was adding the second "C" hook to the hull front to bring it up to Mid Production Spec, then making a fire extinguisher mount based on information supplied by Red Devil's (Thank You). It is a simple styrene loop bonded to a base plate remembering that the top part of the actual fire extinguisher moulding is part of the mount.The base of the extinguisher was filled flat, drilled to
accept mounting studs.

Second C Hook, and fire extinguisher mount

It will be a matter of debate and some artistic licence as to the final location of the fire extinguisher. Most if not all were located on the rear hull. From photo's I learnt that the 3rd Kompanie PzAbt 101 did in fact locate the extinguisher on the turret bin. Tiger 311 is seen in the photo earlier on in this build having the extinguisher on the right hand side of the bin. There are no pictures to support evidence that 1st kompanie or 2nd Kompanie copied this practice , but at least it may (or may not) have been adopted by them. My view is to mount it on the Turret bin.

Next item was adding mounts to the Jack Block, These were cut from 2.5mm brass angle and then resin bonded to the Jack Block to simulate the brackets on the hull that locates the block. It is not fixed down at this stage as it is easier to paint it off the hull

Jacking Block simulated brackets

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The next part of the build I could not have done without the help of Red Devils and Tanks-for-the-memory, so a big to them both for giving there advice so freely .

A feature of Mid / late production hulls is the addition of a triangular engine access plate and re-location of the engine hatch retaining hook which needed to be moved further over to one side.

Mid Production re located hook and triangular plate

Tiger20120mid-production20rear20decking20-20upper20view20compress_zps3f0c03c6.jpg (55.95 KiB) Viewed 3469 times

The Triangular Engine Plate and Catch modification
This was how i created this feature, a lot of work for a little feature but one of the classic Mid-production parts.

1- Drill around the catch with pin drill and sharp knife remove the moulding
2- File off the stub of the old catch left
3- Underneath, remove this section off the rib under the engine deck.
4- Extend the hole this size and then blank off underneath with styrene.

Details on changing the rear engine deck

5- Glue catch moulding on left of new slot and fill original location with styrene blank
6-7 This filler cap was removed from the Mid-Production vehicles, file off and fill with milliput.
8- Reinforce underside of the rib with styrene over blanking plate

Details on changing the rear engine deck pt 2

9-These are the parts you need to make from styrene, the long thin plate is 1.0mm styrene, the
larger plate with the 3 drillings in each corner is 1.5mm. The smaller simular shape plate below
is 0.75mm which is used as a way of raising the plate off the deck. Any simular shape will do.
this is glued underneath the main plate.

Parts you will need to fabricate

10- Below is the final result. glue all 3-parts together to create the triangular plate.
11- The new "latch" is shaped from 2.5mm styrene as is the "stop" it engages with when raised.
12- Fill all around with milliput to ensure clean lines when paint is applied.

This is how it should look

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Thanks for watching , hope this helps you build one.....



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[Wildboar44]

Updated 19-11-2019
Then adding a lighting cable to the headlight.I chose a length of UK 1.5mm Twin and Earth cable .

Copper wire used as lighting conduit for front lamp

The 1.0mm earth core was used to replicate the lighting tube to the headlight .

1.0mm copper wire ised for lighting cable

The 1.5mm main feed cable was used to replace the engine hatch handles . The first paper clip examples did not look to scale, these seemed to be closer to the originals in terms of size. Again another case of adapt and re build, you learn a lot as you go along, dont be afraid of making those changes.

1.5mm copper wire used for engine hatch handles

Last little item for the week was adding the brass Taigen engine grills ..........

Taigen brass engine grills added

[Wildboar44]

Updated 19-11-2019


The Tiger 1 Mid Production Travel Lock November1943-February 1944



Ok good peoples, time for another update, it has been a very frustrating last 10 days, at one point I felt like giving up, after scratch building my first styrene parts with the Triangular access plate/stop and hook, spending several hours making one small brass part and then to end up throwing it away because it did not look correct was very demoralising. For those of you who scratch build whole vehicles, you must have the patience of a saint !

So here is how i made the Travel lock. Introduced to Mid Production Tigers some time during November 1943, this feature only had a short production run until deleted during February 1944. I have seen but cannot find a picture of a Tiger 1 on a rail car with a plywood/timber box like brace under the barrel, not sure if this was Early/Mid or late Tiger but it clearly demonstrates the need to support the barrel during rail transportation. There is a second type of travel lock, I will add this to the post when I find it somewhere in my files !.


For reference, the following 101st PzAbt 3rd kompanie photograghs were used. Almost all of the 3rd kompanie Tiger 1's leading up to D-Day were the mid production variety, Late production were introduced to the 1st and 2nd Kompanies. These pictures were taken during a training exercise near Amiens France prior to mobilisation to the Normany landing area's.

Tiger 331 Rear

101st PzAbt 3rd Kompanie Tiger 331 Amiens France 1944

Tiger 321 Notice both Tiger 321 and 331 seem to have new barrels still painted in grey/red ? primer

Tiger 321 101st PzAbt 3rd Kompanie

And final photo was this close up on the Travel lock in the open position on a Command Tiger 1

Command Tiger ( Large aerial storage tube left of hull ) with travel lock in open position

TigerMidproductionCommandtankwitharielstowagetube_zpsc8a9c6cf.jpg (55.79 KiB) Viewed 3459 times

And for the detailed drawing very kindly offered by Derek ( Red Devils) who's help on this has been invaluable Thanks Buddy

Drawing supplied by Red Devils

r1BarrelTravelLockCloseupView_-vi_zps7d7fec18.JPG (46.98 KiB) Viewed 3459 times

This is how i made my travel lock

So first was to determine the size of the components in 1/16th scale using the photo's and drawings for reference. First I measured a known detail on the back of a HL Tiger as this starter plate. The measurements were recorded, then the photo of the Command Tiger was blown up on a printer so that the starter plate was the same size on both. From this I could work out some outline measurements so I had a guide as to the size of components and spacings.

How to scale parts (Click for larger image )

A 25mm strip of 1.0mm brass was purchased on ebay to make the travel lock, the outline measurements were copied onto masking tape, at this stage it was important to drill all the holes to get the correct alignment. Then It was a case of using a razor saw (or should I say using one up,its blunt now!) to cut out the components. Once the parts had been cut it was then they were filed using the drawings for reference to follow the shape and contours.I used the end of a Tiger barrel extender to allow for the correct bend of the support arm curves. I used a cork mat and pins to hold the parts in situ while I worked out the correct length to cut the swinging plates. The two red cross bottom right picture mark the exact centre spacing the plates would be when correctly mounted on hull.

The brass components take shape Click for larger image )

The shorter of the two swinging plate arms needs to be cranked like this. Then after careful consideration cut the arms to length and solder the support arm curve sections on.Then the cranked brace is filled with a styrene brace. Lastly the base plates are soldered together with a brass 1.0mm spacer in between to give them the correct gap. I had forgotten to take a picture prior to soldering of their shape, but the spacer I soon discovered had to be triangular so that when in the closed position the arms would stop and rest on these, with a square spacer the arms just fell inward under their own weight when a barrel was rested on them .

Soldering the brass together. note the support arms are not equal lengths

Now we were getting there, after a final filing/shaping session, the components were assembled. The centre hinge pin is that 1.0mm copper earth core from a UK 2.5mm twin and earth cable.The "stops" on either side are 1.0mm strips of masking tape wound around the ends, once styrene cement/super glue is dropped on these, I find it tends to set rock hard. The base of each arm was epoxy bonded onto some 1.0mm thick styrene card. This will help a good bond to the surface of the hull and a little more stability although they are slightly oversize.

All assembled , open and closed position (Click for larger image )

Tiger1 Travel Lock in brass

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Tiger 1 Travel lock from rear

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I will post a larger image of the brass strip marked with dimensions prior to cutting if any one wants to copy this detail. It works in styrene as well as it does it brass.If you study Red's drawing he supplied it is easier to work out how it all goes together. Good Luck

Until the next update ....thanks for looking ..... Tankon .






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[ska2d2]

Hats off! Just had a look on Ebay! You could bid on a 1/16 diecast bike. The one that i looked at was 99p+£3 shipping.

[Red Devils]

SA-weet brother, that brass barrel travel lock is bang on!! Build me one I have some of that bike chain left, I'll try to rebuild the jig that came with it and build another length of chain...

Derek

[sassgrunt]

That is just beautiful workmanship on the travel lock. (I will shamelessly copy your efforts when I make my own). Thank you very much for sharing it with us.

[Wildboar44]

That is just beautiful workmanship on the travel lock. (I will shamelessly copy your efforts when I make my own). Thank you very much for sharing it with us.

Hey Sass .......

I have copied my measurements for the blank onto the original photo. You start out will 10mm spacings but lose 1mm to the saw and you end up with 9mm, its still enough to file down and shape , very much a matter of eye until they look "right"

Dimensions for you to copy

I did it in brass because I needed something that would not break off easily, but on reflection the brass one is so stiff in will not "give" if knocked and so if I were to do it again I would be happy to use 1.0mm styrene card and a lot easier to just start again if an error is made.I made sure all the drilling was done on the solid strip before I cut the parts out, real fiddly if you try drilling after !. It will also mean all your holes are in line.


Good luck Sass , hope this helps


Found the picture I had of the altermative Travel lock I have seen only this picture, I
believe it may be a field modification but I hoping someone knows its origins

Travel lock Tiger 1 unknown origin

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Very different from the Mid-Production version

[Wildboar44]

SA-weet brother, that brass barrel travel lock is bang on!! Build me one I have some of that bike chain left, I'll try to rebuild the jig that came with it and build another length of chain...

Derek

Hey Bud. ... If you do that how can I repay you ?? , let me know If you need any online parts , allow me Sir . Its got to be a lot less hassle that the last time I tried repaying a favour with the jack block !

[Red Devils]

Hey Gordo,

Do you have a hobby store that supplies tiny nuts and bolts (N&Bs) ? I was looking at the jig for the bike chain and the little N&Bs that came with the kit are ruined. I believe it was designed as a one time only use jig. So, if you have the ability to get the tiny N&Bs over there, I'll send you the complete package and you can build your chain. I would replace the N&Bs if I had a proper hobby store here or a hobby store owner who would get off his robust rear end and order me some. Cannot wait to get posted back to a major center. Tell me what you think...

Derek

[Wildboar44]

Updated 24-11-2019

So whats wrong with a Heng Long Tiger 1 Turret and why correct it ?

So, IMHO probably one of the biggest challenge's you may or may not want to tackle is correcting the way the Turret is positioned on a HL Tiger. The following chapters will take you through how I modified this feature, so that you can appreciate why I contemplated doing this, have a look at the picures below.

As you can see, look at the before and after photo's and you will see the end result, getting there can be daunting, but in real terms it is not that hard, just requires patience.

In forward facing, Turret has only moved rearward slightly. ( Click for larger image )

Turret Bin overhanging the side too far and Incorrect Undercut/recess back of Turret. (Click for larger image )

The next pair of phot's demonstrate the largest difference in correcting the turret. Facing rearward you can see how much further back the Turret is placed. The Red arrow bye the way, if you plan on replacing your moulded on tools for metal raised ones they will jam under here with a standard HL Turret.

Turret now located further back on Hull when facing backward. (Click for larger image )

I will post how this change was acheived, like a Sawn on the water, what looks simple and easy on top ,you cant appreciate what effortis going on underneath to make it all happen !

Until then ...... Thanks for watching .

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