Old Modeler, new R/C KT build
Forum rules
This section is for posting a build log of your Heng Long tank.
Questions relating to issues you are having with your tank(s) should be posted in the General Questions forum here: viewforum.php?f=14
This section is for posting a build log of your Heng Long tank.
Questions relating to issues you are having with your tank(s) should be posted in the General Questions forum here: viewforum.php?f=14
- dgsselkirk
- Warrant Officer 2nd Class
- Posts: 1484
- Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 1:57 am
- Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
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Re: Old Modeler, new R/C KT build
Hi Michael,
Yes will be a bit of a challenge! Yes, you will overcoat with another layer of dull coat for sure. And of course you are going to weather these to really blend it in right? LOL!
Yes will be a bit of a challenge! Yes, you will overcoat with another layer of dull coat for sure. And of course you are going to weather these to really blend it in right? LOL!
"There are things in Russia which are not as they seem..."
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov
-
- Recruit
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- Location: Pinehurst, Idaho, United States
Re: Old Modeler, new R/C KT build
If you decal over matte clear, or matte paint your decals will silver (air bubbles underneath the decal) gloss clear, decal + setting solution, or decal solvent, matte clear = superior looking decals that look like they were painted on!
- dgsselkirk
- Warrant Officer 2nd Class
- Posts: 1484
- Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 1:57 am
- Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
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Re: Old Modeler, new R/C KT build
Hi JV,
Yes, as I said gloss clear under and with the thin decals I use very little issue with air and the laquer thinner does exactly as you describe, it lightly disolves the decal into the surface and then matt clear on top....
Yes, as I said gloss clear under and with the thin decals I use very little issue with air and the laquer thinner does exactly as you describe, it lightly disolves the decal into the surface and then matt clear on top....
"There are things in Russia which are not as they seem..."
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov
Re: Old Modeler, new R/C KT build
Awesome build Dean , I have used a couple of your techniques on my build, hope you don't mind. I like the look of the solder burn method on the zim, looks a lot easier than how I did mine.
You can never have too many tanks......
- dgsselkirk
- Warrant Officer 2nd Class
- Posts: 1484
- Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 1:57 am
- Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
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Re: Old Modeler, new R/C KT build
Thanks Rob!
By all means use anything you like. Yea, I find the millput a pain! I only use putty for spots I can't really get at to burn but with this scale that's not many and you can always claim "damaged area" and not put any! And the main reason I like it is there is no hurry, no rush. You can stop and start as you please rather than having to beat the clock with the setting of the putty. Hard to believe but I used this method on 1/35th in my younger days!
By all means use anything you like. Yea, I find the millput a pain! I only use putty for spots I can't really get at to burn but with this scale that's not many and you can always claim "damaged area" and not put any! And the main reason I like it is there is no hurry, no rush. You can stop and start as you please rather than having to beat the clock with the setting of the putty. Hard to believe but I used this method on 1/35th in my younger days!
"There are things in Russia which are not as they seem..."
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov
- dgsselkirk
- Warrant Officer 2nd Class
- Posts: 1484
- Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 1:57 am
- Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
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Re: Old Modeler, new R/C KT build
I am getting a bit delayed as we are redoing our bathroom... I would rather be building my KT!
I decided after doing the nice copper large tow cables I couldn't bring myself to use the small cable supplied so I used picture wire. I first traced the pattern out onto a piece of paper and marked the holder bracket positions. I also went back for another look at Bovington. I was going to use the ends of the plastic one but I noticed the Bovington really didn't have ends like that. So I looked at a bunch more pictures and it was tough because of course they are usually long gone in most pics but the few I saw had a more open loop and didn't have those whatchmacallits inside the loop. So I did mine with a more simple loop. I went to all the trouble of cutting and drilling out the plastic parts were the brackets should be but then decided if I was going to all this trouble I should just touch it with solder to hold it together and figure out some brackets that look more realistic!
So I did that and got all the cables together and started on paint. More on that later. So while I was waiting for the primer to dry on the cables I started looking at the plastic brackets I had mounted and comparing them to the real thing. Mine were too thick and a bit too long and I really was growing more and more unhappy with them so of course tear them off!
So now what? I knew I was going to use brass sheet to make new brackets but I also want this tank to fight eventually so how to make something that won't pop off on the first hit. So what I decided to do was a little drilling and soldering. Made the bracket and drilled a hole in the center. Then placed it in position on the tank and drilled through the hull. Next I took a small strand of copper wire and crushed a little bit of the end flat and bent it 90 degrees and soldered it through the bracket. I sanded it down a bit and as you can see in pic 239 the solder bleeds through to the back as well and it makes this pretty strong. So when I mount them simply insert the copper post thru the hull and expoxy on the back side and also at the same time put a little crazy glue on the back of the bracket to help stick it to the hull. And of course will add welds later...
I decided after doing the nice copper large tow cables I couldn't bring myself to use the small cable supplied so I used picture wire. I first traced the pattern out onto a piece of paper and marked the holder bracket positions. I also went back for another look at Bovington. I was going to use the ends of the plastic one but I noticed the Bovington really didn't have ends like that. So I looked at a bunch more pictures and it was tough because of course they are usually long gone in most pics but the few I saw had a more open loop and didn't have those whatchmacallits inside the loop. So I did mine with a more simple loop. I went to all the trouble of cutting and drilling out the plastic parts were the brackets should be but then decided if I was going to all this trouble I should just touch it with solder to hold it together and figure out some brackets that look more realistic!
So I did that and got all the cables together and started on paint. More on that later. So while I was waiting for the primer to dry on the cables I started looking at the plastic brackets I had mounted and comparing them to the real thing. Mine were too thick and a bit too long and I really was growing more and more unhappy with them so of course tear them off!
So now what? I knew I was going to use brass sheet to make new brackets but I also want this tank to fight eventually so how to make something that won't pop off on the first hit. So what I decided to do was a little drilling and soldering. Made the bracket and drilled a hole in the center. Then placed it in position on the tank and drilled through the hull. Next I took a small strand of copper wire and crushed a little bit of the end flat and bent it 90 degrees and soldered it through the bracket. I sanded it down a bit and as you can see in pic 239 the solder bleeds through to the back as well and it makes this pretty strong. So when I mount them simply insert the copper post thru the hull and expoxy on the back side and also at the same time put a little crazy glue on the back of the bracket to help stick it to the hull. And of course will add welds later...
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- Dean's Tiger construction 240.jpg (20.66 KiB) Viewed 2895 times
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- Dean's Tiger construction 232.jpg (34.02 KiB) Viewed 2895 times
"There are things in Russia which are not as they seem..."
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov
- dgsselkirk
- Warrant Officer 2nd Class
- Posts: 1484
- Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 1:57 am
- Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
- Contact:
Re: Old Modeler, new R/C KT build
Now to make the bracket closures. Pretty easy, take a strip the same thickness and do a 90 degree bend but make it a little shorter end then the bracket itself. Solder this on add a little butterfly twist of brass strip to simulate the wingnut on the real thing and done. I will leave it open until it is mounted and the tow ropes and cleaning rods are in and then bend it closed and a touch of crazy glue and it should work fine.
Same idea for the small tow rope brackets just smaller scale. Here you can see the mock up and placement of the first one. ( Base paint on the tow rope only) Will be much better than the plastic tow rope!
Same idea for the small tow rope brackets just smaller scale. Here you can see the mock up and placement of the first one. ( Base paint on the tow rope only) Will be much better than the plastic tow rope!
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- Dean's Tiger construction 247.jpg (45.86 KiB) Viewed 2895 times
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- Dean's Tiger construction 242.jpg (29.79 KiB) Viewed 2895 times
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- Dean's Tiger construction 241.jpg (35.31 KiB) Viewed 2895 times
"There are things in Russia which are not as they seem..."
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov
- Dietrich
- Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 973
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:29 am
- Location: England and Aquitaine,France
Re: Old Modeler, new R/C KT build
Hi dgsselkirk I am glad that I could offer some advice.....
.
@ Hi MichaelC,
I thought that I might get asked that....and have been searching for the packages that they came in..... I got mine from Magnet Expert ...
.
www. first4magnets.com also trading in UK as http://www.magnetexpert.co.uk/
. .
You can also find them on Ebay, they are not as cheap as ordinary type super strong magnets, but the convenience more than makes up for it. I just use a steel washer and a screw opposite a single magnet and screw down into the opposite screw post. North or South do not matter in this case...but...You need to do a bit of careful measuring on the magnet and the washer BEFORE you cut the screw post down...and it is better to cut it a bit Long and to have to file it down than it is to try and replace plastic if you cut too much out....Trust me on THIS one.....I know and I measured about 5 times and still cut out too much !
Alb.
.
@ Hi MichaelC,
I thought that I might get asked that....and have been searching for the packages that they came in..... I got mine from Magnet Expert ...
.
www. first4magnets.com also trading in UK as http://www.magnetexpert.co.uk/
. .
You can also find them on Ebay, they are not as cheap as ordinary type super strong magnets, but the convenience more than makes up for it. I just use a steel washer and a screw opposite a single magnet and screw down into the opposite screw post. North or South do not matter in this case...but...You need to do a bit of careful measuring on the magnet and the washer BEFORE you cut the screw post down...and it is better to cut it a bit Long and to have to file it down than it is to try and replace plastic if you cut too much out....Trust me on THIS one.....I know and I measured about 5 times and still cut out too much !
Alb.
Never Forget......
The Propaganda of the Victors....... becomes the History of the Vanquished
The Propaganda of the Victors....... becomes the History of the Vanquished
Re: Old Modeler, new R/C KT build
Thanks Dietrich. I just check the site and I think they are still too big for my liking. Just peeking at the box you have here, it looks like yours are 15mm in diameter which is way bigger than the post still. Does screwing a washer on top of the magnet reduces the pull ?
I have managed to between epoxy and super glue keep most of them down. The reason I want the small ones (6.5mm x 3.2mm) is that they sit right into the existing screw mount on one end. I guess it would be too small for a counter-sink magnet for that size and even if they exists the screw would be too small to mount onto anything anyway.
I share your pain with the cutting........I started cutting too much and have to use epoxy to make up the difference, but after couple of them, what I do now is cut it long, and then sand them down one by one until I get a good fit (I just leave the top and bottom magents on so I know how it will fit. Once I have a solid fit and contact then I glue them down and then heat skrink tube them so it looks neat and tidy). After 5 or 6 of them my last couple actually has been pretty good. As long as it is not an all metal tank, I can lift most of them by the upper hull and the bottom won't come off which is good enough for me !
I have managed to between epoxy and super glue keep most of them down. The reason I want the small ones (6.5mm x 3.2mm) is that they sit right into the existing screw mount on one end. I guess it would be too small for a counter-sink magnet for that size and even if they exists the screw would be too small to mount onto anything anyway.
I share your pain with the cutting........I started cutting too much and have to use epoxy to make up the difference, but after couple of them, what I do now is cut it long, and then sand them down one by one until I get a good fit (I just leave the top and bottom magents on so I know how it will fit. Once I have a solid fit and contact then I glue them down and then heat skrink tube them so it looks neat and tidy). After 5 or 6 of them my last couple actually has been pretty good. As long as it is not an all metal tank, I can lift most of them by the upper hull and the bottom won't come off which is good enough for me !
Re: Old Modeler, new R/C KT build
Here you go Dean, thanks to your lacquer tips. My brush happen to have some brownish colour on it so by the time I applied it to the decal it weathers it at the same time, and desolved part of it to simulate paint chip !dgsselkirk wrote:Hi JV,
Yes, as I said gloss clear under and with the thin decals I use very little issue with air and the laquer thinner does exactly as you describe, it lightly disolves the decal into the surface and then matt clear on top....
Elite Armour decal with Tamiya lacquer thinner on Asiatam rubber zim. I already ordered some more decal for my KT since this work out so nicely.