Panzer 4 Tamiya restoration

This section is for you to give a commentary / build log of your Tamiya tank. Remember - lots of pictures please!

Postby percy1510 » Mon Feb 18, 2019 11:40 am

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Hello All
I got my hands on this Tamiya Panzer IV at the weekend. Its the full option kit but as you can see it is in a pretty poor state. it has not been used much as it has been sitting on a shelf but it will need pretty much starting again to get it right. problems I have spotted so far
Turret armour is not in correct place, it is glued to the supports but not in the correct places. The right hand side sticks forward about 10mm further than the left

One of the wheels is jammed

one of the tracks is a good few links longer than the other

the added armour at the front of the hull is at an angle

turret gun elevation is installed incorrectly so there is no elevation and the gun is just flopped in a downward angle.

loads of blobs of glue on hull and turret, luckily it seems to scrape of easily leaving no damage. Not sure what type of glue it is

obviously paint job is not good so will get repainted in dark yellow with a green and brown scribble cammo scheme

I love a challenge and thought it would be a good idea to this picture so that I can post finished pics when it is done.
Glyn

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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Mon Feb 18, 2019 12:14 pm

Lucky man, Percy !!! Finding a Tamiya pzIV in any condition is a bit like finding Blackbeard's Treasure :haha:
Here's a pic of the one I built; newly completed (Minus the retaining bar =for the spare wheels). It's sitting in a base coat of Dunkegelb presently, while I decide whether it will sport Finnish or German camo, and real detail (pinwashes etc., unit markings, blah, blah).
Use this pic to correct the armour, if it helps, and
You'll find more like it on this build thread (quite far on..) : viewtopic.php?f=23&t=23848&hilit=contemplating
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Do populate the screen with more detailed pics! Where on Earth did you get it anyway? :D There are quite a few Pz IV fans on this board. :thumbup:
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Mon Feb 18, 2019 12:20 pm

...Details later, but the barrel droop is probably due to the elevating arm's knuckle joint coming adrift. That's no big problem, is an easy fix...if you have double jointed fingers, :D I have a few Pz IV spares for the running gear and other bits.
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Postby percy1510 » Mon Feb 18, 2019 12:28 pm

I can see the problem with the elevation. The whole unit is fitted incorrectly. Think I will take the turrett apart this evening and correct everything. Also just noticed that the barrel is at a slight left angle. One part I am missing if anyone has it in thier spares is one of the screw covers from the front of the hull. It is disguised as a hinge

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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Mon Feb 18, 2019 12:44 pm

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The parts you need, Percy, (B3, B13,) are on the 'B" sprue. Axel may have the sprue in (I'll check later). I don't have spares for that fitting, I'm afraid. They are easy to lose- and that probably accounts for the one your Pz IV's missing. :problem:
Last edited by 43rdRecceReg on Thu Feb 21, 2019 11:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Mon Feb 18, 2019 12:57 pm

The good news: the 'B' sprue is in stock at Axel's.. The not so good news: it's 14.5 euros + shipping. https://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/kat ... -1-16.html
My Pz IV build was a completely unplanned experiment. I wanted to see whether it was possible to build the full-option version from spares. It was, but the spares bills soon mounted up... 8O
Luckily, I had lots of help, and in particular from a great forum member who lives in the middle of the Pacific :thumbup: (You know, that plastic ocean :| )
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Postby c.rainford73 » Mon Feb 18, 2019 1:43 pm

It appears you have struck gold as this is also my favorite tank. Looks like someone attempted to build something they weren't prepared for and did thier best to assemble it :crazy:

Should be a bit tedious to repair, but not too bad. Following along :thumbup:
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Postby percy1510 » Mon Feb 18, 2019 1:48 pm

Thanks for all the replies everyone.
I will post updates to the thread as I go and as ever your suggestions and advice is most welcome

Regarding the missing screw cover. I think that I will attempt to use the one that I have as a mould to make a new one.

Interestingly the chap that I got this from built model aeroplane's for a living. He worked for a company that send him new models which he has to build and test to iron out any problems before new models go into production

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Postby jarndice » Mon Feb 18, 2019 2:05 pm

Hi Percy check your PM.

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Postby percy1510 » Mon Feb 18, 2019 2:23 pm

Replied

Thanks

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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Mon Feb 18, 2019 2:46 pm

You mentioned the jammed roadwheel, Percy. When assembled properly, Pz IV wheels have one of the most fluid movements you'll find on any model tank.. :) However, the builder
might have glued the shaft to the wheel somehow, when bonding the two halves together- with an excess of zeal..and glue. 8O Perhaps he used superglue instead of Tamiya's ABS cement for the job. :think:
You could always use one of the two spare wheels, that come with the model, to make a replacement, if necessary. I think I may have the bushes and shaft needed to build a wheel. Alternatively,
you could remove the reluctant roller, and use de-bonder to strip it down. :)
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Postby percy1510 » Mon Feb 18, 2019 2:53 pm

The problem seems to be the whole assembly of one of the wheel bogies

Not sure exactly what is wrong at the moment but I plan to remove the bogie and strip it down and rebuild it

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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Mon Feb 18, 2019 3:11 pm

Ah... yes. It's quite a tricky assembly. Here's a diagram for assistance, if you need it. :thumbup: I think I have most of the bits needed to make a new one, but stripping the unit down, should sort the problem out.
I like your idea of making a mould for the hull retaining screw's cover, by the way. Good solution. Cheap too :thumbup:
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Good luck, Glyn!. Will be following along with interest.. :D
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Mon Feb 18, 2019 4:05 pm

Warning! The MB4 screws are made of some kind of compacted butter. That means if the guy that assembled this tank used the provided tamiya thread lock, it is going to be hard or impossible to remove them. My tip is to put a soldering iron over them for a while, and then to try to unscrew them carefully.

If you break them, you can install good quality laptop screws. (About 1 euro free shipping for 100 of them in aliexpress).

I replaced all the MB4 screws in my PIV, and cant be happier.
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Postby percy1510 » Mon Feb 18, 2019 4:42 pm

I sell nuts and bolts for a living so getting replacements for the mb4 screws won't be a problem. soldering iron on them first is a great tip
Thanks


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Postby Eastern Front » Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:22 pm

Hi All,

Not sure why you would want to remove screws that you thread locked in place,, Not saying it would never need to happen but...

As far as Tamiya models go, if you use plastic cement or super glue you are doing it wrong! I know some folks will take offense to this but here is why..

Plastic cement only works ok, after some time the small parts eventually will just break off. Stupid glue only really works well with resin parts.

Now whereas HL models are concerned I use the liquid Plastruct cement, its like water but bonds extremely well.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/PLS00002-Plast ... ctupt=true
this is the type I speak of.

Tamiya models are made f a different type of plastic so I highly recommend using Tenax-7R or its replacement https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tenax-7R-Plast ... ctupt=true

The reason I say use these is for a few reasons. 1. use the correct glue for the job 2. avoid excess on the model.

the problem with glue in the tubes is that when applied you wind up with either too much and affect the desired design, or in some cases weld a wheel so that it no longer can move. no to mention the mess..

The liquid glues I mention do not glue things together, they actually "Technically" chemically melt the plastic and allow it to flow together becoming one solid piece that will not come off.

I apply this using a small GLASS syringe (you can get these anywhere) do not use a plastic one. I put the syringe tip in the bottle and extract about a drop of liquid then I place the glue on the part, then just touch it to where it needs to go--- BOOM! its attached!

another benefit to this is the plastic actually absorbs the glue, any excess evaporates off leaving no visible trace, no globs, no mess.

After using this technique and glue, you won't ever have to say "Hey where did that part go" because they won't break off....

Cheers!
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Postby percy1510 » Mon Feb 18, 2019 10:54 pm

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Did a couple of quite productive hours this evening

Tracks now same length and track tension correct and even

Fitted reciever

Fixed gun elevation which was incorrectly fitted plus had a large staple in the gears so was not working

Repaired turret armour brackets and started to clean them up

Fixed issue of gun mantlet being off square. Now all looks good and true

Set Tamiya dmd to use my flysky radio


I have a question for any Tamiya users reading this. I have used the set button on the dmd and calibrated the sticks as per the manual. The tank drives and steers correctly, the gun elevation and turret rotation are both working but I can not get any gun functions to work so no recoil, no flash, no machine gun. Had any one got any suggestions where I am going wrong. Also is it possible to make the main gun fire by using one of the switches on my flysky controller

Thanks for looking
Glyn

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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Mon Feb 18, 2019 11:05 pm

percy1510 wrote:[url=https://s1262.photobucket.com/user/Percy1510/media/A1AA130B-5F6B-4ADE-80E2-2C71A0822022_zpsinzuhzjd.jpeg.html]

I have a question for any Tamiya users reading this. I have used the set button on the dmd and calibrated the sticks as per the manual. The tank drives and steers correctly, the gun elevation and turret rotation are both working but I can not get any gun functions to work so no recoil, no flash, no machine gun. Had any one got any suggestions where I am going wrong. Also is it possible to make the main gun fire by using one of the switches on my flysky controller

Thanks for looking
Glyn


Sure thing, program your switch to send a signal of +125 in ch 3 (or the one you are using for elevating the barrel), and it will shoot the cannon, and another switch with -125 and it will shoot the MG.
Plan B is to use the trims and sticks, but thats annoying.
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Postby sassgrunt » Mon Feb 18, 2019 11:36 pm

Percy, I have two each of the B3 and B13 parts, (that will give you one as a spare). I'll PM you for address. -Mike

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Postby c.rainford73 » Tue Feb 19, 2019 1:24 am

sassgrunt wrote:Percy, I have two each of the B3 and B13 parts, (that will give you one as a spare). I'll PM you for address. -Mike



Mike you are the example of a good kind hearted person and your willingness to help members of the forum including myself is simply incredible. :thumbup:
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