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Tamiya Königstiger- a blitz build

This section is for you to give a commentary / build log of your Tamiya tank. Remember - lots of pictures please!

Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sat Aug 12, 2017 5:31 pm

In time-honoured forum tradition, I'm launching into a new project before finishing my current one, the Cromwell. :P Well, the Cromwell is at the painting and testing stage, but I wanted a break, and what better than to build my very first
RC full-option Tamiya? I've been assembling the bits I need recently: the glues, the paints, the Tamiya side-cutters, and other recommended doo dahs, as well as a Futuba 'Attack' 4YWD TX/RX combo. Since Painless produced one of the definitive Tamiya builds recently- albeit the Tiger 1- I've decided to make this one a quick build. A blitz.
First the tank:
Tamiya Blitz build Pic 1.jpeg
Tasty Tamiya KT package

Tamiya Blitz pic 2.jpeg
Can't wait to open the package..
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sat Aug 12, 2017 5:42 pm

Next, the tools. I already had some choice ones from previous builds (Trumpeter razor saw and many more), but I really wanted to follow the instruction manual to the letter. That meant acquiring specific products, such as the mysterious
'rubber cement', as well as Tamiya metal primer etc. After the build, I'll see what needs upgrading. For the moment though, I want to see how good or bad the Tamiya KT is in bog standard form. :|
The Tools:
Tamiya Blitz- tools Pic A.jpg
The right tools for the job- probably a bit of overkill

Tamiya Blitz- tools Pic B.jpeg
Another angle on the tools

A problem with backlighting, and so I've added a few different shots.
Tamiya Blitz- essential tool Pic C.jpeg
Emergency tool- when all others fail

Water of Life tool: an essential in any model Tanker's toolbox :haha: 8O 8O
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sat Aug 12, 2017 5:53 pm

In preparation for the Cromwell's 'field trials' (no joke in my case, as my garden's surrounded by fields :haha: ), and for access to the KT and other tanks, I've been building a ramp to enable my Tanks to get in and out of the house under their own steam- so to speak. It's almost complete. But here my sternest critic is telling me how it should be done. She's a Backseat builder: a four-legged one at that .. :haha:
So, here's the Tank-ramp:
Tamiya Blitz- Tank Ramp- Pic D.jpeg
Tank-ramp under construction

This is the sort of trouble you go to, when the addiction is uncontrolled :-< :haha:
On a positive note though, the next time I break my ankle and find myself in a wheelchair again; I'll be properly prepared :thumbup:
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sat Aug 12, 2017 6:05 pm

The package contents:
First, the metal bits. I'm going to clean them and spray them with Tamiya metal Primer. Them they'll get a coat of Humbrol primer from a rattle can.
Tamiya metal bits pic 3.jpeg
KT metal bits

I have to say the hull and rolling gear bits have an encouraging precision feel. That's just as well, considering the arm and a leg that Tamiya products cost! ;) I'll clean them up with some acrylic thinner, in readiness for the metal primer.
Tamiya blitz suspension housings pic 10.jpeg
Fitting Tamiya suspension housings after priming

Having primed the hull, I started fitting the suspension housings, being careful to fit them the right way round. Luckily, the illustrations in the build manual are clear and logical :thumbup: (unlike me sometimes :haha: )
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sat Aug 12, 2017 6:15 pm

Now, it's time to fit the torsion bar stays. They're a bit fiddly for ageing fingers, and require a little dexterity and care to fit, but fit well when you have the knack. :think:
Tamiya blitz torsion bar stays Pic 11.jpeg
Fitting the Torsion bar stays

Tamiya blitz torsion bars fitted Pic 12.jpeg
Torsion bars fitted

The torsion bars won't fit if you're a millimetre or two out when pushing them in. They also require a tricky twist to lock them in. After a few successful inserts, the rest go in with increasing ease, without the need to resort to the Malt Whiskey
'special tool' and choice expletives :lolno: :haha:
Right, well that's enough for today....
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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Sat Aug 12, 2017 7:42 pm

There can never be enough tools ;)

Love the tank ramp, will they have their own mat to wipe their fee. . . Tracks?

Well, can't expect a Scot not to have a bottle nearby ;) love the emergency tool excuse :haha:

That looks a rather nice kit you have there, thank you for sharing, dead jealous. . . . But at least I got in a dig about the booze ;) LOL.

Now, can I ask a favour please. Out of curiosity, what is the diameter of those tortion bars?

Mick.
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Postby tomhugill » Sat Aug 12, 2017 8:37 pm

Son of a gun-ner wrote:There can never be enough tools ;)

Love the tank ramp, will they have their own mat to wipe their fee. . . Tracks?

Well, can't expect a Scot not to have a bottle nearby ;) love the emergency tool excuse :haha:

That looks a rather nice kit you have there, thank you for sharing, dead jealous. . . . But at least I got in a dig about the booze ;) LOL.

Now, can I ask a favour please. Out of curiosity, what is the diameter of those tortion bars?

Mick.


The tamiya ones (unlike taigen) are flat not round

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Postby tomhugill » Sat Aug 12, 2017 8:38 pm

Given the standard of previous work Roy, if this ends up as a blitz build I might eat my hat ;)

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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Sat Aug 12, 2017 9:40 pm

tomhugill wrote:
Son of a gun-ner wrote:Now, can I ask a favour please. Out of curiosity, what is the diameter of those tortion bars?

Mick.


The tamiya ones (unlike taigen) are flat not round

Oh, ok, thank you Tom.
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sun Aug 13, 2017 3:44 pm

Son of a gun-ner wrote:
tomhugill wrote:
Son of a gun-ner wrote:Now, can I ask a favour please. Out of curiosity, what is the diameter of those tortion bars?

Mick.


The tamiya ones (unlike taigen) are flat not round

Oh, ok, thank you Tom.


Yep, if you click on the pic to enlarge it, Mick, you'll see that the bars are actually flat. They're probably about 8mm across I'd guess, but never thought to measure them. The key thing here is that they make for a precise fit. Almost too
precise to fit :D
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sun Aug 13, 2017 3:51 pm

tomhugill wrote:Given the standard of previous work Roy, if this ends up as a blitz build I might eat my hat ;)

:D , you might well be right there Tom :haha: But..just in case there's a spark of 'Blitz' here, I'd invest in an edible hat, if I were you ;) Working from detailed instructions on a well documented model (Youtube and elsewhere), is a world part from almost making-it-up-as-you- go along with Chris' Ludwig kit... :problem: Mind you, I'm beginning to love the look of the Cromwell, and to appreciate the detailing it has to offer modellers :thumbup:
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sun Aug 13, 2017 4:04 pm

Now for the wheels...
Tamiya blitz priming wheels Pic 7.jpeg
Priming metal wheel parts

I don't happen to have a decent rattle can of red-oxide primer hanging around, so after using Tamiya metal primer, I opted for this fetching shade of pink primer (Tamiya surface primer) :P
Tamiya blitz topcoat wheels pic 8.jpeg
Pretty in Pink

After priming the plastic parts of the running gear, I painted them with Tamiya Dunkelgelb:
Tamiya blitz topcoat wheels pic 9.jpeg
A dose of dunkelgelb..


The weather's been a tad unpredictable lately (yeah..what's new , eh?), so I've been driven into my old shed in order to do a spot of painting.
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sun Aug 13, 2017 4:27 pm

Well, here's the hull newly primed and painted in Dunkelgelb. I used Tamiya rattle cans at this stage instead of getting my airbrush out. Their cans are pricey, and disappointingly small. Still, they work perfectly well after a good shake. Optimal spray distance is around 8 inches.
Tamiya Blitz build Hull painted Pic 12B.JPG
Hull resplendent in Dark yellow

Now it's time to start bonding bits onto the rear panel. I used Tamiya cement here for a change. Normally, I use Revell Contacta Pro. Contacta Pro has a very useful needle type dispensing system, and is great for accurate delivery into tight spots.
Just an observation at this point. Where the metal hull smacks of durability, precision and strength..the other major plastic components, the Upper Hull and the Turret, are surprisingly thin and flexible compared with those in my Torro Pro (Metal edition) King Tiger. Being new to Tamiya Full-Option kits, I've no way of knowing whether Tamiya are economising with the plastic and ABS bits, but I thought the KT would be far more robust that it appears to be. Only time will tell, I suppose, how to will handle outdoor use (and abuse!) :problem: but it does appear to be fragile :thumbdown:
Attachments
Tamiya Blitz rear panel fittings Pic 14.jpeg
Rear panel assembly
Last edited by 43rdRecceReg on Sun Aug 13, 2017 10:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Ad Lav » Sun Aug 13, 2017 4:41 pm

Good start!

Got to love a good King Tiger.
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sun Aug 13, 2017 5:16 pm

Here I've fitted the parts to the rear panel, and after fitting it to the hull (bit fiddly as it's held in by 5 captive nuts with screws), I began attaching the wheel, sprocket and idler assemblies. One thing to note is that many of the metal parts require a small drop of thread lock. All the set screws for the suspension housings and torsion bar stays need threadlock.
Before fitting the rear panel, though, it was necessary to fit Tamiya's track tensioner. Now that was a bit tricky. The system reminded me of fitting fiddly return springs in car drum brakes. I have to say, it doesn't inspire me with great confidence.. :eh:
Tamiya King Tiger Track Tamiya KT tensioner 1.jpeg
Tamiya KT's track tensioner assembly

This is one component I shall probably upgrade in the not too distant future.
Tamiya Blitz Rear panel wheels sprockets pic 15.jpeg
KT with running gear and rear panel fitted..


I won't dwell on the methods used to assemble the Idler, Sprocket, and Wheel assemblies except to say that while the Idler and Sprockets are straightforward, you need three hands for the wheels! ;)
Look:
Tamiya KT road wheels 2.jpeg
King Tiger Road wheel assembly

Apart from ensuring the Tamiya grease is in place on the axles, you need to be able to hold the wheel components in an offset configuration, (such that a gap appears between the back to back metal discs), while adding fixing screws from the rear. Prestidigitrists used to shuffling playing cards would have an advantage here. @) Frustratingly, at my first attempt, the road wheel hub containing the greased bearing broke free from the rim and the whole assembly ended up on the floor. Although the wheel assembly is made of styrene, I found ordinary cement wasn't strong enough to bond the hub to the outer Rim, so I ended up using ABS cement.
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Postby Ad Lav » Sun Aug 13, 2017 5:24 pm

Schumo upgraded idler system is well worth the money.
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Sun Aug 13, 2017 5:32 pm

Hi 43rd. I dont want to down you, or start another Tamiya VS all Fight, but just some tips from a Tamiya King Tiger owner to a Tamiya king tiger owner:

That idler kit that does not inspire confidence is a piece of shit, but you have a couple of alternatives, you can install the Daryl Turner system (pricey, but David Turner stuff is AWESOME). That is rock solid and works with springs too. I have not seen it in real life, but people speaks marvels about it. The second alternative are the Henntek track tensioners. I have installed one and its bulletproof too, but it has no springs. The third option is to throw away those small springs and replace them with putty. (Not tested by me, but I think Tom Hugil did it)

As you have mentioned, the plastic is thin and fragile, but I am afraid the aluminium lower hull is not much better. A gearbox brace can do marvels on your tank.
The third fragility problem you will find, are the tracks. As you can see them are the "Open pin" mode. That means in the tracks you can see the entire pin, and one link is linked to the other just with a couple of milimeters of plastic. As you can imagine it does not last long, and a lot of people breaks them on the first run.

I considered buying metal tracks, but they are really expensive (still can digest how some pot metal tracks are more expensive than my 1000cc Honda motorbike chain, lol) and also it seems that with the metal tracks is mandatory to do the mods I told you (idler and gearbox brace) and also to add some more mods to prevent hull flex. But if you want metal tracks you need to buy the impact ones, or the kenny kong. Mato, Taigen and Heng long ones are not compatible. It seems the "Matorro" ones are compatible too, but not sure about it.

Im sorry, but that's what it is...

Keep on going with your build, and try to install working lights on the tank. :) I put a lot of extras on it: Headlight (with warm white led!, not xenon white!), brake light, notek, turret searchlight and 3 working machine guns. With lights your tank will look alive!
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sun Aug 13, 2017 5:32 pm

Ad Lav wrote:Schumo upgraded idler system is well worth the money.

I'll certainly check that out, Adam, and thanks for the tip :thumbup: I've come across some of your contributions on the Tamiya club site, I know you have a wide experience of Tamiya products to fall back on.
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sun Aug 13, 2017 5:40 pm

Rad_Schuhart wrote:Hi 43rd. I dont want to down you, or start another Tamiya VS all Fight, but just some tips from a Tamiya King Tiger owner to a Tamiya king tiger owner:

That idler kit that does not inspire confidence is a piece of shit, but you have a couple of alternatives, you can install the Daryl Turner system (pricey, but David Turner stuff is AWESOME). That is rock solid and works with springs too. I have not seen it in real life, but people speaks marvels about it. The second alternative are the Henntek track tensioners. I have installed one and its bulletproof too, but it has no springs. The third option is to throw away those small springs and replace them with putty. (Not tested by me, but I think Tom Hugil did it)

As you have mentioned, the plastic is thin and fragile, but I am afraid the aluminium lower hull is not much better. A gearbox brace can do marvels on your tank.
The third fragility problem you will find, are the tracks. As you can see them are the "Open pin" mode. That means in the tracks you can see the entire pin, and one link is linked to the other just with a couple of milimeters of plastic. As you can imagine it does not last long, and a lot of people breaks them on the first run.

I considered buying metal tracks, but they are really expensive (still can digest how some pot metal tracks are more expensive than my 1000cc Honda motorbike chain, lol) and also it seems that with the metal tracks is mandatory to do the mods I told you (idler and gearbox brace) and also to add some more mods to prevent hull flex. But if you want metal tracks you need to buy the impact ones, or the kenny kong. Mato, Taigen and Heng long ones are not compatible. It seems the "Matorro" ones are compatible too, but not sure about it.

Im sorry, but that's what it is...

Keep on going with your build, and try to install working lights on the tank. :) I put a lot of extras on it: Headlight (with warm white led!, not xenon white!), brake light, notek, turret searchlight and 3 working machine guns. With lights your tank will look alive!

Thanks for the input, Rad- all observations and caveats duly noted! :thumbup: As i said at the outset, though, I wanted to build the KT in its standard format before launching into the inevitable upgrade (and additional expense) spiral. The Cromwell bill got ever longer..
and I don't want this going OTT..not yet anyway.
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Sun Aug 13, 2017 5:45 pm

Well, the good thing about the upgrades I mentioned, is that you can add them anytime very easily and fast.

And ah! I almost forgot. Most people replaces the elevation arm for a metal one (it seems the plastic one breaks easily when using the metal barrel) I bought a metal arm (like 4 euros) but I have not instaled yet. I guess I will install it once I break the stock plastic one... Im just telling it in case you buy any of the other upgrades, for combining shipping purposes. Every penny counts! lol.
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