M1A1HA, 9/18/23 update. Delay of Game, two week penalty!

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MichaelC
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Re: HL M1A1 HA Build -Update 2/27 and a New Question

Post by MichaelC »

Barry, it really depends on whether you are going to put in a quick release or not, as well as the size of the interior. With the moderns it is not as critical as there are simply more room, but I think it would be easier to close off the battery compartment for the TUSK underbelly armour, and put in magnets for quick release of the upper hull. This way you can also get to the other parts of the tank quickly, and no ungainly sight of screw holes and the battery compartment door underneath.

I think the magnet solution has been well documented so you can just do a quick search. Everyone has their own trick, but the common theme is the super strong rare earth magnets. I buy the ones that fit the lower mounting pole opening perfectly, and then cut the top mounting pole to size. If you go back to the thread I have for the turret servo traverse you will be able to see the magnets mounted to the lower hull.

They are strong enough that it won't fall off when you are running the tank, but a strong tug when it is on the bench will separate the upper and the lower.
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BarryC
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Re: HL M1A1 HA Build -Update 2/27 and a New Question

Post by BarryC »

MichaelC wrote:Barry, it really depends on whether you are going to put in a quick release or not, as well as the size of the interior. With the moderns it is not as critical as there are simply more room, but I think it would be easier to close off the battery compartment for the TUSK underbelly armour, and put in magnets for quick release of the upper hull. This way you can also get to the other parts of the tank quickly, and no ungainly sight of screw holes and the battery compartment door underneath.

I think the magnet solution has been well documented so you can just do a quick search. Everyone has their own trick, but the common theme is the super strong rare earth magnets. I buy the ones that fit the lower mounting pole opening perfectly, and then cut the top mounting pole to size. If you go back to the thread I have for the turret servo traverse you will be able to see the magnets mounted to the lower hull.

They are strong enough that it won't fall off when you are running the tank, but a strong tug when it is on the bench will separate the upper and the lower.
Hi Michael,

I really want to attach the armor through the floor of the hull from the inside and removing the need to access the battery from the bottom/outside would be ideal.

The way you have described how you installed and used the magnets is exactly what I was thinking. I set there earlier looking at the posts while pondering the thought of removing the battery box. Sounds like a near prefect solution. How do you attach them especially to the threaded post after you cut them back? If it not too much to ask do you have more photos of your application?

Thanks much,
Barry
"Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail."
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MichaelC
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Re: HL M1A1 HA Build -Update 2/27 and a New Question

Post by MichaelC »

Hey Barry,

This is my preferred way of doing it, but there are other ways like using metal on one side and not magnet on both side, or use the ring style magnet. Here is the picture for the top and the bottom:
DSCN1406.JPG
DSCN1407.JPG
We should start with the bottom first as that is the easiest. What I usually get is the 1/4" x 1/8" magnets, and they would fit exactly over the bottom poles screw opening.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-pcs-of-1-4- ... SwQiRUp0ri

I noticed that Home Depot carries Magcraft which is the one I usually get, but I can't find this size on their website. It might be worthwhile to check it out, but the link above is much cheaper. I would say 4 poles is the minimum, and 8 is rock solid. 6 poles seems to be the happy medium.

As to the top poles, I used to try to measure the exact difference (i.e. in this case 2 x 1/8" = 1/4" or two magnets stacked together), cut it off the top poles, and then epoxy the top ones on. You need to make sure that the polarity is correct obviously. I think this will work for you since you are very accurate in your measurement. I on the otherhand is horrible at it, so I need a more idiot proof way, which is what you see in the pictures of the upper hull........

What I do is get some aluminum tubing, 9/32" diameter and 0.014" thick which is pretty well exactly the outside diameter of the magnets and the mounting poles. I would cut off small pieces, maybe two magnets tall, and glue the magnet to one end of it (again making sure the polarity is correct). I then cut the top poles, but it doesn't have to be exact this time, but slightly more than two magnets length. I then put in some epoxy on the open end of the aluminium tubing with the magnet, and then slide it over the cut top pole. I repeat this for all the poles I am doing, keeping in mind that the epoxy has not to be dried yet, and then once they all done, very gentle close the upper to the lower. The magnets should pull themselves together, but because the tubing slides over the top poles, it will pull them down to the exact gap you need to keep the top and bottom tight.

Then you keep the top and bottom tight and wait for the epoxy to dry. Once it is done, it will be nice and tight.
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BarryC
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Re: HL M1A1 HA Build -Update 2/27 and a New Question

Post by BarryC »

Michael,

Very well thought out plan, I like it. I will get some 1/4x1/8" magnets and follow your process, excellent!

I really appreciate you taking the time to help this "rookie tanked want-a-be!

Thanks a million,
Barry
"Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail."
Leonardo Da Vinci
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atcttge
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Re: HL M1A1 HA Build -Update 2/27 and a New Question

Post by atcttge »

I tried Michael's magnet-on-poles before with the Leo. Crucial is setting the magnets at the correct height. But I don't think you'll have problem with that seeing how precise you put things together.

The other problem is strength. Using Michael's method, all the magnets were sticking together right. The problem was when I started running it rough over uneven terrain like real tanks do. The upper hull part would jump off, misaligning it to the lower hull, and having to put back the upper hull properly again. This despite using magnets-on-magnets and these were strong magnets at that.

My solution was to use even several stronger and larger magnets placed on various parts of the hull halves, particularly front and back. To prevent the magnets prying the other from the hull (and requiring regluing of the magnet), I had each magnet array (yep, a lot) "sheathed" in oversized steel bracket which is then glued to the hull. The oversized extensions have been folded earlier to serve as anchors over and around which milliputt is placed. When the milliputt is cured, it serves as a rock solid adhesive securing the magnets inside the steel bracket. The same is replicated on the other hull half. Result is a very strong magnetic lock that can withstand rough running of the tank over rough terrain, and without the risk of the magnets ever coming lose from the mounts.

I'll take photos of wot im talking about and post it here ASAP.
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BarryC
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Re: HL M1A1 HA Build -Update 2/27 and a New Question

Post by BarryC »

atcttge wrote:I tried Michael's magnet-on-poles before with the Leo. Crucial is setting the magnets at the correct height. But I don't think you'll have problem with that seeing how precise you put things together.

The other problem is strength. Using Michael's method, all the magnets were sticking together right. The problem was when I started running it rough over uneven terrain like real tanks do. The upper hull part would jump off, misaligning it to the lower hull, and having to put back the upper hull properly again. This despite using magnets-on-magnets and these were strong magnets at that.

My solution was to use even several stronger and larger magnets placed on various parts of the hull halves, particularly front and back. To prevent the magnets prying the other from the hull (and requiring regluing of the magnet), I had each magnet array (yep, a lot) "sheathed" in oversized steel bracket which is then glued to the hull. The oversized extensions have been folded earlier to serve as anchors over and around which milliputt is placed. When the milliputt is cured, it serves as a rock solid adhesive securing the magnets inside the steel bracket. The same is replicated on the other hull half. Result is a very strong magnetic lock that can withstand rough running of the tank over rough terrain, and without the risk of the magnets ever coming lose from the mounts.

I'll take photos of wot im talking about and post it here ASAP.
Thanks Atcttge, the photos will be a great help in understanding what you did.

Barry
"Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail."
Leonardo Da Vinci
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BarryC
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Re: HL M1A1 HA Build -Update 2/27 and a New Question

Post by BarryC »

A short update for what seemed like a lot of work!

I have cut out the battery box as you can see. I also began assembly of my primary support and attaching structural frame work. I will drill through several of the corner braces and attach through the hull from the inside allowing me to removed it if needed.

I have used a lot of bracing and more is required as being located on the underside it is bound to take some impacts especially from the front. I am going to make the forward slope section out of laminated sheet shaped and screwed to the hull. It will be a solid .75"x .5" shape that should hold up to terrain impacts, I hope!

Image

TAFN,
Barry
Last edited by BarryC on Mon Jul 17, 2017 11:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail."
Leonardo Da Vinci
ALPHA
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Re: HL M1A1 HA Build -Update 2/28, beginning Belly Armor

Post by ALPHA »

Boy Barry...Though I am really enjoying watching your build...I have to admit...it kind of scares me lol...I've come to know my M1 pretty well...and I can't help but think how much some of the things that are done are actually weakening your model
Don't get me wrong...it's not a criticism at all...I love what you are doing...it's just these new gen HLs aren't cut from the same cloth as the old...the plastic is a lot thinner...so consideration to beefing up that hull might be a consideration...especially with the metal running gear...My M1 started to sag inwards after two days of sitting on it's wheels (metal just like yours) out of the box...I found the battery box very important to the rigidity..and actually braced internally off of it...I'm sure you have figured this into your design..It's just something I felt needed mention ;)

ALPHA
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BarryC
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Re: HL M1A1 HA Build -Update 2/28, beginning Belly Armor

Post by BarryC »

Hi Alpha,

I appreciate your input and am always open to sound advice. I am planning on creating some internal bracing between the hull sides. I had thought about a bulkhead just ahead of the motors and gear boxes creating if you will an "engine compartment". One to contain the grease splatter within the engine compartment and away from my electronics and two to provide bracing. However I am a little concerned about heat build up though I will not be running for extended periods of time. There will need to be another bulkhead forward perhaps between the 1st and 2nd road wheels. I even thought of using aluminum plate for the bulkheads. What are you thoughts on that approach?

Cheers,
Barry
"Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail."
Leonardo Da Vinci
Uncarina
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Re: HL M1A1 HA Build -Update 2/28, beginning Belly Armor

Post by Uncarina »

Barry,

I haven't been in the forum lately, so I'm just getting caught up. I really like your internal and external detail work, and you make your work easy to follow!

Cheers, Tom
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