Clark TK 40 board killing my recoil servo

If you have a tank query and you can't find the answer anywhere else, post here. (TIP - Check for answers in FAQ, use the 'search' facility or even check this board before posting here).

Postby quitcherbitchen » Tue Jan 11, 2022 12:52 am

My Clark board works great, but I just added the recoil to my Panzer III and the servos don't survive 20 minutes before they heat up and stop working. They buzz too. I know buzzing is bad. I tried changing the PWM setting in my Horus Radio but that didn't solve it. I have the S bus receiver--so does that mean I need S bus servos? I thought the Clark board had 3 PWM slots even if S- Bus. Please help me as burned up a couple of expensive Hitec servos.
QB
User avatar
quitcherbitchen
Private
 
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2020 4:14 am
Location: La Canada, Califorinia

Postby tomhugill » Tue Jan 11, 2022 1:01 am

The servo buzzing is probably because the Clark board is using end points different to what you had before. The motors are in a permanent state of stall for the time before they burn out. You need to change the horn position on the servo so when it's at rest it's not stalling out.
User avatar
tomhugill
Captain
 
Posts: 4529
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 11:21 am

Postby quitcherbitchen » Tue Jan 11, 2022 7:01 am

So I found my servo tester and the Hitec servos seem to work fine, except with the Clark board. They worked initially, but now don't react. They both got really hot before not reacting. They work fine with the tester. A cheap tower hobby servo works fine so I am using that now. The elevation servo still won't react to the Clark board except in large exaggerated studdered moves. Very strange. The endpoints don't seem to matter. I messed with those and nothing changed.
User avatar
quitcherbitchen
Private
 
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2020 4:14 am
Location: La Canada, Califorinia

Postby tomhugill » Tue Jan 11, 2022 10:06 am

Take the horns off and see what the situation is. If it works disconnected from the mechanism then you know where the issue lies. Some times the servo driver does go bad but it's pretty rare.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
User avatar
tomhugill
Captain
 
Posts: 4529
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 11:21 am

Postby General Jumbo01 » Tue Jan 11, 2022 11:07 am

"The endpoints don't seem to matter. I messed with those and nothing changed"

That shouldn't be the case as the end points will affect the distance the servo arm travels - the throw. An incorrectly adjusted servo will buzz when an end point exceeds the physical limit of travel and will then simply burn itself out.

Tom's suggestion will confirm whether you have a problem with a servo or the mechanism it is try to operate but if it operates smoothly when disconnected you will still need to adjust the end points when reconnected so as to get realistic travel of the part you are moving and to ensure the servo throw is not exceeding the physical limits of the moving parts.

I've no idea of your experience but, in case you are new to RC, the end points are set by the transmitter software which some budget systems may not have. As a rule, Hitec servos may not be the absolute best but they are normally good and reliable.

Sent from my ASUS_X00TDB using Tapatalk
User avatar
General Jumbo01
Warrant Officer 1st Class
 
Posts: 1753
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2018 8:06 pm
Location: I'm a Londoner that moved to Essex. Says it all really...:(

Postby quitcherbitchen » Tue Jan 11, 2022 3:33 pm

I am new to tanks and the Clark board. Not new to RC. 30+ years and my radio is running OpenTX with Frsky S bus receiver. I should have explained that I did the test with the horns off and on. Same result. Endpoints I went from -50 to +50 to -100 to +150 and everything in between. Same result. Seems the Clark board has a very weird neutral band setting for the PWM. 1500 and the tower hobby servo works. 1287 and I can get the very Cheap Chinese servos to spin, but not stop. At 1500 the cheap servos won't react either. This tank was made for battling at the local club which has been closed since Covid and only just reopened. I will try and meet someone there to see if they have any suggestions as well. Thanks for the help by the way. This one is a doozy.
User avatar
quitcherbitchen
Private
 
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2020 4:14 am
Location: La Canada, Califorinia

Postby dgsselkirk » Tue Jan 11, 2022 4:24 pm

I have run Clark boards for almost 10 years. Yes, I found that depending on the servo it had issues like that especially Hitec brand. I am no electronics whiz as people here will attest to! But I find these servos to be absolutely faultless with the Clark board and have used them in well over 50 tanks I have built. So I guess my suggestion is buy some of these to try. I am sure they will work and are relatively cheap! This is the best price I have seen in a while for 6

https://www.banggood.com/6PCS-MG90S-RC- ... rehouse=CN
User avatar
dgsselkirk
Warrant Officer 2nd Class
 
Posts: 1443
Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 1:57 am
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

Postby quitcherbitchen » Tue Jan 11, 2022 5:04 pm

Thank you for the info. Much appreciated.
User avatar
quitcherbitchen
Private
 
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2020 4:14 am
Location: La Canada, Califorinia

Postby tomhugill » Tue Jan 11, 2022 5:05 pm

dgsselkirk wrote:I have run Clark boards for almost 10 years. Yes, I found that depending on the servo it had issues like that especially Hitec brand. I am no electronics whiz as people here will attest to! But I find these servos to be absolutely faultless with the Clark board and have used them in well over 50 tanks I have built. So I guess my suggestion is buy some of these to try. I am sure they will work and are relatively cheap! This is the best price I have seen in a while for 6

https://www.banggood.com/6PCS-MG90S-RC- ... rehouse=CN
Those aren't fully metal gear, just the first gear and horn.

These are full metal and cheaper per servo

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10X-Metal-Ge ... 635-2958-0

I'll also speak up for the compatibility of these servos. When I say endpoints I'm not talking EPA on the radio I mean mechanical end points of the mechanism.
.
For servo elevation you need the enable that in the settings using a ir remote and programmer.

Worth getting some of those alternative servos to test.

If you're still struggling Clarks tech support is pretty good, if not a little slow because of the time difference

Support email: sales@clark-model.com

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
User avatar
tomhugill
Captain
 
Posts: 4529
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 11:21 am

Postby quitcherbitchen » Wed Jan 12, 2022 12:36 am

So elevation is as easy as using the tv remote to activate? Wow I did not know that. That explains the weird servo movement. I will read the clark manual for the thousandth time and see what I have to do. Can't believe I missed that. Thanks for the tip.
User avatar
quitcherbitchen
Private
 
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2020 4:14 am
Location: La Canada, Califorinia

Postby tomhugill » Wed Jan 12, 2022 12:57 am

quitcherbitchen wrote:So elevation is as easy as using the tv remote to activate? Wow I did not know that. That explains the weird servo movement. I will read the clark manual for the thousandth time and see what I have to do. Can't believe I missed that. Thanks for the tip.


Yes, I think it's in the second page of settings. If you're in esc mode then it'll do some very erratic things with your servo!
User avatar
tomhugill
Captain
 
Posts: 4529
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 11:21 am

Postby Jofaur86 » Wed Jan 12, 2022 12:48 pm


Jofaur86
Warrant Officer 2nd Class
 
Posts: 1122
Joined: Wed Dec 26, 2018 12:28 am

Postby quitcherbitchen » Wed Jan 12, 2022 3:16 pm

So which button shuts off the ESC1 and activates PWM for elevation? Nice little cheat sheet.
User avatar
quitcherbitchen
Private
 
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2020 4:14 am
Location: La Canada, Califorinia

Postby Jofaur86 » Wed Jan 12, 2022 4:09 pm

hello, this for TK 20/22? but must be ditto on the principle of operation! Are you using the IFR led on the corresponding connector? in order to know the number of flashes according to the (Sony) button used? it is also sometimes necessary to reverse Ch2 / Ch3 to have a correct operation, I follow far? very far from being a pro? but having successfully operated a TK 24 ..
1: http://download947.mediafire.com/mdo1fh ... _Guide.pdf
2: http://download1587.mediafire.com/yl763 ... _Guide.pdf

Jofaur86
Warrant Officer 2nd Class
 
Posts: 1122
Joined: Wed Dec 26, 2018 12:28 am

Postby tankme » Wed Jan 12, 2022 8:44 pm

You have to go to page two of the config:

Screenshot 2022-01-12 134046.jpg

tankme
Staff Sergeant
 
Posts: 944
Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2017 4:51 pm
Location: Elgin, TX

Postby Jofaur86 » Wed Jan 12, 2022 9:13 pm

From memory, it seems to me that there is already one of the three servo outputs, which is originally programmed? and the other two are done with Sony? or I'm wrong ? Is there not a mechanical problem with the servo badly positioned, or adjusted by repirting the necessary travel, which would mean that the neutral is not where it is needed? the servo hangs under tension (hum) heats up and burns out? would be a plausible hypothesis?
according to the instructions, the controls by the sticks, are simpler in SBus than with a 4/6 channel radio? standard

Jofaur86
Warrant Officer 2nd Class
 
Posts: 1122
Joined: Wed Dec 26, 2018 12:28 am

Postby quitcherbitchen » Wed Jan 12, 2022 9:33 pm

Yes the recoil is always on. The other two slots have to be activated. Do I hit the 1 and then the 2? Or push 1 twice?
User avatar
quitcherbitchen
Private
 
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2020 4:14 am
Location: La Canada, Califorinia

Postby tankme » Wed Jan 12, 2022 9:53 pm

It will be in ESC mode already since that is the default indicated by the *. Hitting 1 will move it to PWM mode as the light on the battle system will flash twice. If it doesn't flash twice then hit 1 until it does. If it flashes more than twice...you are changing the wrong setting... :) You have to have a battle system installed or use the Clark "IR Programming Line" attached to the board. The remote signal is being captured by the battle system or IR Programming Line sensor and then uses the LEDs on those to show the mode it is set to. You can see from this video at time index 5:56 and example of how to program the Clark board. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yam654wo2hg.

tankme
Staff Sergeant
 
Posts: 944
Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2017 4:51 pm
Location: Elgin, TX

Postby quitcherbitchen » Wed Jan 12, 2022 10:54 pm

Again Thank you so much. You are a real help. I programmed this thing a year ago and forgot most of whatever I learned LOL.
User avatar
quitcherbitchen
Private
 
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2020 4:14 am
Location: La Canada, Califorinia

Postby tankme » Thu Jan 13, 2022 12:01 am

NP. I have to look at the docs every time I do it.

tankme
Staff Sergeant
 
Posts: 944
Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2017 4:51 pm
Location: Elgin, TX

Next

Return to General Questions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: rr82@mediacombb.net and 10 guests