That Pesky Panzer IV Muffler

[SCHWEREPANZER]

We've all read and experienced the inordinate amount of 'glue' our friends at Heng Long use on their models. But, I'm flummoxed on this one. I need to remove the standard can muffler from an H-L Panzer IV in preparation for converting the exhaust to the late two pipe version. Has anyone of our community ever successfully removed one while otherwise leaving the rear plate intact? If so, I'd love to know your secret.

Sorry for the small font. Learning what's what on a new computer.

[Tiger6]

Dremel from inside?

[jarndice]

Paint Debonder in copious amounts around the stump of the muffler pipe on the inside of the rear plate and then after leaving the debonder for a few minutes to penetrate start working the muffler,
The glue should start to breakdown and your working the muffler should give a clean release.

[SCHWEREPANZER]

Well Tiger, initial tepid attempts in that direction yielded singularly negative results. But, one must learn not to be pusillanimous when dealing with machines of war. After taking a much more aggressive stance, the offending muffler and its accompanying brackets are gone. But, it 'tweren't pretty.

Thanks again.

[Tiger6]

I was about to suggest secret option B - Razor saw, scalpel and a large flat bladed screw driver, just took me all of 10 mins to cut one off and clean up:

[SCHWEREPANZER]

Thanks chaps. I wish I had had that razor saw. And a special thanks to the Tiger for serving up his own Pz IV as a guinea pig. As for the debonder remedy, it has worked for me in the past, but I swear, H-L soldered that muffler in place. Thanks again, chaps.

[Tiger6]

The razor saw is a must have tool. Its a much neater cutting method than using a hacksaw blade, and makes a lot less of a mess (and also removes a lot less material) when you want to do things like slice off the Panzer IV idlers to reposition them (that is your next task, right?).
Be sure to get the smaller tooth (i.e. more per inch) version, as they work better on plastics than the courser ones that work better on wood - I think I'm using this one (or something very similar): https://www.expotools.com/acatalog/7354 ... 73547.html

Getting good with a dremel is also worth learning tho, as with a little practice and the right cutter, you can easily remove unwanted details from the model without leaving the rest of it looking like a ploughed field. (Won't help you with repositioning the idlers tho )

[jarndice]

The razor saw is a must have tool. Its a much neater cutting method than using a hacksaw blade, and makes a lot less of a mess (and also removes a lot less material) when you want to do things like slice off the Panzer IV idlers to reposition them (that is your next task, right?).
Be sure to get the smaller tooth (i.e. more per inch) version, as they work better on plastics than the courser ones that work better on wood - I think I'm using this one (or something very similar): https://www.expotools.com/acatalog/7354 ... 73547.html

Getting good with a dremel is also worth learning tho, as with a little practice and the right cutter, you can easily remove unwanted details from the model without leaving the rest of it looking like a ploughed field. (Won't help you with repositioning the idlers tho )

No it won't but it will be great at cutting out the battery box.

[SCHWEREPANZER]

Now you've thrown a monkey wrench into this build, Tiger. I wasn't planning on repositioning the idlers, but I believe the drive sprockets are too low on the chassis, and Mr. Jarndice is going to have a fit unless I do do something to the slope of the rear deck. But, yes, the battery box will be lopped off, one way or another.

Here is the beast in question.

20210720_113525-2.jpg (22.26 KiB) Viewed 474 times

Thanks again chaps. Your input much appreciated.

Ralph

[Tiger6]

He'll just have to look away from mine then, as I tend to pick my Panzer III's and IV's via the back end, and weakening the rear deck is just asking for it to shatter every time I try to pick it up...

Also just discovered while doing mine, the latest HL hulls have the return rollers (that was what I meant to type instead of idlers last night - it was getting past my bedtime...) moulded into the hull rather than glued on, which will make the razor saw the only way to remove them...
On the plus side, the metal axles pull out much much easier than they used to