Help with Tami 1:16 Pershing

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Postby Winalot » Wed Oct 14, 2020 6:28 pm

Sorry if I’m being a pain, but this is the first Tami RC Tank I have built. I have got to the point of fitting the turret, apart from the fact that there are more wires than in the telephone exchange, I can’t seem to fit the turret.
They tell you to slot the turret with the 2 lugs into the Tank Body, and then the gear ring, I assume slots into its place ready to drive it, but then you are told to twist the turret clockwise to lock it! It made a graunching Sound as if the gear worm had slipped, but it doesn’t turn? Makes a bit of a noise and tries to turn.
Hope I’ve been explicit enough.
Any ideas
Last edited by Winalot on Wed Oct 14, 2020 8:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby Model Builder 4 » Wed Oct 14, 2020 6:36 pm

This is a gripe I have with the tamiya traverse units, they are very weak, the sound you are most probably hearing is the slipper gear which is fitted to the unit which acts as a measure to prevent doing any damage if the turret gets jammed and can't move. I have had exactly the same problem with my own, you have to try and make the wiring as neat as you possibly can and try to stop it interfering and fouling the movement of the turret ring :thumbup:

Cheers, Lee.
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Postby Ad Lav » Wed Oct 14, 2020 6:41 pm

They do make an awful noise when you click it straight.

Works fine if greased a little.

Persevere and sort the wiring as best you can! The Tiger I is capacious in comparison!
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Postby Winalot » Wed Oct 14, 2020 6:46 pm

Ok thanks for quick replies. Yes im sure it’s the wires getting in the way, I think the bracket holding the motor could become bent easily, got a lot of potential bend in it.
I’ll persevere, this forum so helpful
W

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Postby Winalot » Sat Oct 17, 2020 2:36 pm

Hi
Im still having trouble with turret rotation. I ve tidied up all the wires, and I don’t think there binding.
It tries to rotate but then stops and clicks. I can’t see much wrong inside! The roller wheels x3 round the turret hole may be a little stiff, could that be it?
W

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Postby Ad Lav » Sat Oct 17, 2020 2:46 pm

Glue the slipper clutch. I had to do mine. Runs perfectly now.
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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Sat Oct 17, 2020 2:52 pm

I'm sure Wayne made a 3D printed cover for that unit :think:
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Postby Winalot » Sat Oct 17, 2020 6:35 pm

Thanks, but am I being thick, where is the slipper clutch?

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Postby Tiger6 » Sat Oct 17, 2020 7:00 pm

Its built intro the last gear on the unit (the one that engages the turret ring gear). A simple fix I use is to disassemble the unit and switch the gear with the slipper onto the middle shaft, rather than gum it up with epoxy. This greatly increases the amount of force required for the slipper to operate, but doesn't completely remove the function.

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Postby Winalot » Sat Oct 17, 2020 9:18 pm

Thank you, I will try that tomorow.
W

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Postby Winalot » Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:17 pm

Hi
I’m getting nowhere with this Pershing turret! I’ve moved the slipper clutch to the second cog position which has helped, and got all the wiring tidy, so don’t think they ate binding.
It rotates ok, although a bit jerky, but when it gets to the slot in the body for removal of the turret, it pops out of the slot. I don’t see how this an work.
When you put the turret on and rotate it clockwise, how far should it be rotated?
The other problem may be, that there is a lot of play in the turret from side to side, and the rollers fitted to the hull don’t even seem to be in contact with the grey ring.
I must have got something wrong somewhere.
Any help much appreciated
W

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Postby Ad Lav » Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:23 pm

Post some photos?
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Postby Winalot » Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:33 pm

Yes will do if I can get a clear shot of the problem. I don’t know about all you other guys, but I’m beginning to think that the Tamiya is not worth the extra money.
Yes, the detail is superb, the sound great and the motors and gears are great, but the detail is fragile. I keep breaking bits off with the turret in and out. All in all, correct me if you disagree, but the Heng Long, with a bit of upgrading, and extra detail added , would seem a better bet! Especially for the price. I am a little dissaponted with the Tami, but it might be my fault!
Any opinions?
W

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Postby General Jumbo01 » Sun Oct 18, 2020 3:33 pm

Can you remove the top hull from the bottom? If so, maybe fit the turret permanently and close the 'slot' with plasticard.
You can also shim the slack out of the wobbly turret. Have you considered fitting a 360 rotating cable barrel as produced for Henglong tanks. This would remove all cable induced turret rotation resistance.
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Postby Winalot » Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:16 pm

Hi and thanks for the advise. Yes that could all be done but should I have to at £600 + for the ( supposedly) best make on the market. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve enjoyed making it, and as I said, you can’t fault the detail, but?
W

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Postby General Jumbo01 » Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:39 pm

If you have built your model precisely as instructed and assuming you have not purchased a duff example, no. You should not experience problems.

Detail is relatively low cost and easy to add so justifying the cost of a Tamiya model can be difficult to fully justify in many eyes - you'll find one or more extensive and somewhat heated debates on this matter if you search the forum.

The cheaper models, predominantly Henglong, used to have many flaws but at their low price most of us were happy to buy them knowing we would have to spend time and money turning them into a quality model. More recently they have advanced hugely and their electronics now equal or exceed those found in in far higher priced models.

I guess we've gotten used to having to modify our models and, quite frankly, that's become half the fun of our hobby. This is no help for you right now but if it helps to put you in the picture then you might be better prepared for future purchases.
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Postby Ad Lav » Sun Oct 18, 2020 5:05 pm

Tbh if it’s a new kit and built as per instructions, barring any wiring bunching issues it should be fine.

I did cut my speaker in half and box it up again to give me space for all the wiring and the battery.

My turret touches all the guides going round, doesn’t slop.

The turret clutch glue fix worked perfectly for me, it just means you can’t twist it with your hand now.
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Postby Tiger6 » Sun Oct 18, 2020 5:13 pm

The Pershing is notoriously cramped inside, the only advice I can offer is to make sure all of your wiring is bundled up and tied down out of the way (making sure to keep the receiver wires well away from the motor cables to eliminate electrical noise). I did once have to sort one out for a friend, and it was an absolute pig to get the turret back on and functional.

One thing I have seen suggested by the old hands over on RCUniverse is to cut down the speaker box a little, doesn't make much of a difference to the sound, but does make more space.
Last edited by Tiger6 on Sun Oct 18, 2020 5:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby Winalot » Sun Oct 18, 2020 5:17 pm

Thanks again, if you glue the clutch, then how do you twist the turret on now? Having eliminated the wiring problems, I think. The prob seems to be when the turret gets to the slot, it pops out! I must say it seems to run ok with the upper half of tank off, so I guess it’s still pressure of the fit, pushing it up.
I didn’t expect this kind of issue tho.
W

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Postby Ad Lav » Sun Oct 18, 2020 5:20 pm

Winalot wrote:Thanks again, if you glue the clutch, then how do you twist the turret on now? Having eliminated the wiring problems, I think. The prob seems to be when the turret gets to the slot, it pops out! I must say it seems to run ok with the upper half of tank off, so I guess it’s still pressure of the fit, pushing it up.
I didn’t expect this kind of issue tho.
W


See my post two up - you won’t be able to twist it by hand. You’d have to turn it on to twist it and remove it if needed.

I think it’s wiring pushing it up when it turns.

Suggest you cut the speaker box in half and box it up again to make wiring space.
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