Henntec vs Tamiya idler

[LordPanzer]

Good morning fellow tankers. I'm in the mists of a Jagdpanther rebuild that I picked up a month or so ago. Build thread also posted for those that would like to see. Well one thing I'm unsure of and wanted to get your feed back here. In putting everything back together after strip down and cleaning the Tamiya Idler just does not seem shall I say sturdy. Maybe its the way I put it back together as I know sometimes things never go back the same way they came off. Most of the time its user error. So with that said its on and working to the point of testing running the tank around the garage floor a few laps. Its not tight and solid and seems like a bit of a bear to really lock it down tight and have it adjusted as it should. So I started looking for other options. Well all like "upgrades" right? So came across Henntec. Looks like they offer 2 options for the JP. They are both around $50 and my question to you guys here is it worth it? Do you really notice a difference in performance and ease of install. I would think once you have an Idler installed and adjusted it should not need constant adjustment.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[Jimster]

I put a Henntec in my Tiger and that sucker feels solid as a rock! It also adds some rear hull stiffening as a bonus and the set screws (grub screws) hold their adjustments without becoming loose. At least so far. No more idler wobble at all and there is a small amount of adjustment available to move the idler inboard or out if needed to keep perfect alignments.
The Taigen system I had originally seemed too mechanically complicated and flimsy in comparison.

[RenoirLV]

I have tried both. There are problems with both. And both come when you have a heavy tank with high torque gearboxes. Taigen gets the idlers bent inwards. In the idler arms. The shaft is strong enough. You can find pics on the forum. Big problem. Tracks slip off. I believe the shaft in between the arms could be a bit longer. That could improve the situation. I wonder if anyone has tried to change the shaft for something longer.
Henntec solution suffers from the grub screw fixation. With high torque the grub screw isn’t able to keep the idler tensioned. You end up retightening tracks every time you drive the tank.
Just a bit of difficult terrain and the tension is gone. Because it is held in place by a tiny pointed grub screw pressed against a shaft with some minor groves on it.
But the idlers will remain aligned at all times.
Henntec is perfect for HL plastic hull with original setup. Too much weight and power will make it struggle. I tried it on Taigen lower hull too. The same issue. Can’t hold power.
Then it looks like this.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LordPanzer]

Thank you for the feed back. I wonder if a small indentation in the shaft and a longer grub screw could be a fix ?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[Jimster]

How funny (or not funny). My experience with my metal hulled Taigen Tiger offering has been stellar up to this point with absolutely no slippage of the set screws. And I drive Ol’ Ugly like a cheap “lady of the evening”. I guess the only thing consistent is the inconsistencies. Maybe others will chime in on this issue.

[RenoirLV]

I need to clarify that I meant Taigen idling system not Tamiya. But from what I’ve heard these systems are nearly identical.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LordPanzer]

Thanks for the input gentleman. Any idea how the Henntec stands next to the Tamiya setup?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[jarndice]

My first discovery of the uselessness of pointed Grub Screws (Set Screws) was when the Wheels on my Taigen Tiger 1 became loose,
I searched out Flat base Grub Screws and yes I did order the slightly longer shaft item,
I have never had to think about the wheels working loose since.
I can only wonder what made anyone think that pointed grub screws with almost no surface area could retain a polished surface that was under load.
It cannot have been a matter of cost as flat based grub screws cost exactly the same

[RenoirLV]

Thanks for the input gentleman. Any idea how the Henntec stands next to the Tamiya setup?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I believe it was Tamiya setup that was on the pics bent. A panther if not mistaken. On this forum too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RenoirLV]

My first discovery of the uselessness of pointed Grub Screws (Set Screws) was when the Wheels on my Taigen Tiger 1 became loose,
I searched out Flat base Grub Screws and yes I did order the slightly longer shaft item,
I have never had to think about the wheels working loose since.
I can only wonder what made anyone think that pointed grub screws with almost no surface area could retain a polished surface that was under load.
It cannot have been a matter of cost as flat based grub screws cost exactly the same

The surface isn’t polished. Not on the current versions. It has some groove. Still I tried different set screws and ordinary screws with Philips head. Nothing held too long. My tiger is nearly 8kg with 4:1 Taigen boxes, powered by Elmod. Any grass travel ripped the tensioner.
I’m happy and puzzled that it works for some. Am I doing something wrong?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk