Upgrades for Tamiya Leopard

[Forlorn Hope]

I am looking to do my first tamiya rc tank. I want to do a leopard 2a6. I have a good bit of model building experience with 1/48 aircraft, two henglong rc tanks, and a torro rc tank. I realize the leopard is not the best starting tank, but I am up for the challenge. I just want to know what upgrades are a good idea for this tank. I plan on doing some battling, and a lot of backyard driving. I mostly want to know if suspension upgrades, and such are necessary. Any help would be appreciated.

[Samurai Modeler]

Recommended aftermarket parts for the Tamiya Leo 2 and these are the parts I used for my build.
The kit tracks are used, they run great, the metal tracks add to much weight and wear and tear to the drive train etc in my opinion.

• Tamiya Battle Unit.
• Tamiya Stabilization Unit.
• Tamiya detailed main gun metal barrel.
• Impact metal suspension arms, a must have: http://www.mitosal.com/Leopard2A6.html
• Impact road wheel bearings: http://www.mitosal.com/Leopard2A6.html
• Impact metal idler assembly: http://www.mitosal.com/Leopard2A6.html
• AFV metal turret baskets (did not like or use Impacts parts): http://www.afv-model.com/4711shop/index.php?cPath=2_4_8
• AFV small metal handles: http://www.afv-model.com/4711shop/index.php?cPath=2_4_8

• Important: Nicely routed turret wiring.
• Note: If you spec the Tamiya Gun Stabilization Unit, Tamiya USA still recommends using a Futaba SkySport FM RC Radio Transmitter (with left self-centering stick option) and Receiver.
Why?
A 2.4 rc radio will not operate the Tamiya Stabilization Unit.

I built this kit several years ago and still have the model, a favorite. You can find my Leo 2 project under Tamiya Builds, Pcomm1 here at rc tank warfare.

Enjoy!

John

[forgebear]

try this link
http://www.afv-model.com

go to shop and then tracked vehicle and then 1:16 and then leopard on the far right top side of the page

i have put most of this on my leo 2A6 cost a lot but runs great
dave

[tomhugill]

Only thing you really need is an upgraded idler adjuster, the afv model ones ok but the henntec is better.

The suspension arms will go eventually but as long as they're not over tightened they can last a long time.

[Samurai Modeler]

For my Leo 2 build your UK mate's posted advice would have not been very helpful and they are writing more like saboteurs; actually.



The Impact Idler Adjusters work great in my Leo 2 and provide for fine track adjustment setup when tuning your model.

As a side note: I tried the Henntec idler setup in my Leo 1 build paired with Kenny Kong Leo 1 metal tracks and the Henntec setup is to weak (not strong enough) to hold the idler adjustment tension. The Henntec idler system does work fine with the Leo 1s kit tracks, but then so do the kit's idlers.

Per my build experience and use, the Impact metal suspension arms are quality parts and work as they are supposed too.

Find my Leopard 2 here: http://www.rctankregiment.com/rctankfor ... =30&t=2247

Enjoy,

John

[BarryC]

[quote="Samurai Modeler"

As a side note: I tried the Henntec idler setup in my Leo 1 build paired with Kenny Kong Leo 1 metal tracks and the Henntec setup is to weak (not strong enough) to hold the idler adjustment tension. The Henntec idler system does work fine with the Leo 1s kit tracks, but then so do the kit's idlers.

John[/quote]

I am experiencing the same issue with my M1A1 with metal tracks. The Henntec system just will not hold the tension adjustment.

Barry

[c.rainford73]

I've machined a true flat onto my henntec track tensioners so the grub screws hold thier position on the shaft instead of the little splines on the provided kit. They have worked very well for me. Until I ground the flat on the shafts they were always working out of position.

[tomhugill]

[quote="Samurai Modeler"

As a side note: I tried the Henntec idler setup in my Leo 1 build paired with Kenny Kong Leo 1 metal tracks and the Henntec setup is to weak (not strong enough) to hold the idler adjustment tension. The Henntec idler system does work fine with the Leo 1s kit tracks, but then so do the kit's idlers.

John

I am experiencing the same issue with my M1A1 with metal tracks. The Henntec system just will not hold the tension adjustment.

Barry[/quote]

I find replacing the grub screws with cap head screws allows you to get a better grip on the shaft and prevents slippage.

The advantage of the henntec system over the afv model one is you add more stiffness to the models front end, which the afv one doesn't. Also you get infinite adjustability rather than set positions. It's also easier to adjust .

John, I'm not saying the metal suspension arms aren't a good upgrade eventually but they can be easily retrofitted when the plastic ones fail, which in my experience can take a very long time if they're installed properly.

[Samurai Modeler]

I hear you Tom, I just do not like to rebuilt my Tamiya's to replace broken parts if it means a major disassemble. Hence, I'd rather add the after market parts during the initial build. And thanks for the Henntec tip, I'll try that mod.

[BarryC]

Tom,

Excellent though on the set "grub" screw, I'll give it a try. Just off hand do you remember what size screw it is?

I selected the Henntec system for the same reason, infinite adjustment positions.

Barry