1/6 t34 project, here we go

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Postby Aljones34 » Thu Jan 03, 2019 5:27 pm

Probably better to try a long lasting fix before it causes more damage and stresses the hull

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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Thu Jan 03, 2019 5:59 pm

Hell yeah, them tracks and running gear cost a small fortune, I totally agree, with the others, best to do it right the first time :thumbup:
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Postby minimivic » Thu Jan 03, 2019 8:35 pm

I found the problem, the rear axle is bent. Not sure if we did it or it was done before, as it never ran nicely ( was told they all sound bad)
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So with a little help from my CNC and boy we have
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Holes are tapped
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And the top trial fitted, near perfect.
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What I do need is a supplier for these as they are really hard to get out of the old chassis.
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Postby RobW » Thu Jan 03, 2019 9:04 pm

Try Cromwells https://www.cromwell.co.uk/ or some of the older motor factors.

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Postby minimivic » Fri Jan 04, 2019 4:56 pm

Looking for a supplier of 4bo Russian green paint in aerosol cans. Any ideas?

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Postby RobW » Fri Jan 04, 2019 6:04 pm

Not aerosol but https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product ... 4bo-70609/ at least comes in big bottles....

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Postby Max-U52 » Fri Jan 04, 2019 6:07 pm

They say Tamiya Green in the spray can is very close. It might be number 66, but I can't remember.
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Postby Saracen » Fri Jan 04, 2019 6:27 pm

Blimey, that was quick!

Regarding the bushes, they're probably just ordinary bolts with the heads turned down and a hole drilled through the middle.

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Postby minimivic » Wed Jan 09, 2019 5:52 pm

Chassis painted red oxide 3 coats
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Motors and rear axle in, axle has been bolted to rear panel for additional strength as the last one bent. Bar is also 16mm now.
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One side of track on and running nicely.
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Will be doing the other side tonight so Maybe back on tracks and running for the weekend.

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Postby glenny25 » Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:13 pm

don't forget a small vid of her running?

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Postby minimivic » Thu Jan 10, 2019 7:49 pm

No pictures or videos tonight, but she now runs and drives.
A few adjustments to make yet but it all looks promising, the tracks didn't try to jump off and there was no nasty noises like before.
Will update further when I do more testing in the light.

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Postby minimivic » Fri Jan 11, 2019 4:57 pm

Not a good sign. Axle cant bend and chassis doesn't flex anymore so something else had to give?
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I really think the track link spacing or the rear sprocket are incorrect as when its driving the rear sprocket hits the top of the teeth on the tracks forcing it to go into the sprocket or jump off.
I hear Armortek T34's have a similar issue.

Does anyone with a T34 have issues and can anyone give me the measurements of their track links to compare?.

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Postby Saracen » Fri Jan 11, 2019 5:16 pm

How tight are the tracks ?

This video shows my Armortek T-34 running around with nice floppy tracks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FedYHZmSPAw&t=18s

The only issues I've had with the Armortek T-34 is with the rollers in the sprockets becoming jammed. As it's the prototype, the originals were aluminium and had worn badly after they jammed - mainly because I simply hadn't noticed - so I just turned some replacement ones. They're also soft aluminium, so as to be sacrificial and not wear the (expensive) track links.

One thing I've found with the Shlakhter tanks is the holes through the track links aren't drilled straight. That's why they use some form of copper track pins.
If they're not straight then the links can be under severe internal pressure when going round the sprockets and idlers.

Try putting a length of steel bar through that link and see if the holes all line up.

And check all the other links for broken sections. I found quite a few on my JS-2 at the end of the running season, even though the links were still working.

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Postby minimivic » Fri Jan 11, 2019 5:22 pm

Tracks were loose, and it happened on flat ground.
Last night I did some steps and turns with no problems, maybe a coincidence.
Your t34 seems to run a lot nicer.

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Postby minimivic » Tue Jan 15, 2019 10:29 am

All running good at the moment so now looking at ESC and sound options. viewtopic.php?f=81&t=26899 so to keep the build thread separate.

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Postby Lo_Thar » Tue Jan 15, 2019 1:10 pm

:thumbup: good to know - i watch your build!

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Postby minimivic » Sun Feb 10, 2019 6:24 pm

Lots going on but not many pictures as wiring is messy until it’s finished.
Electronics are, Sabertooth 32amp esc, Benedini mini v2, benedini amplifier.
I do have some issues.
Speed and control are fine, and I get sound for movement.
I have humming from the speaker when it’s connected to the tbs mini, I have the audio isolator and have tried a separate power source, still the same. I even moved components to separate them.
The tbs mini is limited in what it can do.
Sound wise it’s great, but to trigger the sounds is complex on the 2 way switch, I can get gun fire sound and flash, or gun fire sound and recoil but not the 2 together.
Also I can get servos to work, but the turret turns continuously one way or the other. It’s a constant rotating servo I think, works fine just connected to the rc receiver.
I also want turret turn sound, no way I can see to do this.
If I loose 2 stick steering I can have gun and mg on the second stick.
Not sure where to go from here, but been looking into other options like Beier, as open panzer is no longer available.
I have an ElMod and an ibu2 here I could use but can’t see any way of 2 stick control.
Suggestions welcome.

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Postby Saracen » Tue Feb 12, 2019 12:19 am

> I have humming from the speaker when it’s connected to the tbs mini

Usually caused by interference on the power, rather than radiated. Try disconnecting things and see if you can make it quiet. It also depends on how good the amplifier is. If you're running it full volume, most cheap amps buzz at full volume.

> Sound wise it’s great, but to trigger the sounds is complex on the 2 way switch, I can get gun fire sound and flash, or gun fire sound and recoil but not the 2 together.

Is this using the new Benedini software (V4 ?) which includes recoil ?

Page 187 of the manual says "Switching output Out1 is set in parallel for about 300ms to operate a muzzle flashing LED" so it should be possible to do both.

> Also I can get servos to work, but the turret turns continuously one way or the other. It’s a constant rotating servo I think, works fine just connected to the rc receiver.

Why would it not be connected to the receiver ?

> I also want turret turn sound, no way I can see to do this.

The higher sounds are (or were) various whining noises for turret turn etc. There's no link between the turret traverse and the Benedini, so you would need to activate that sound at the same time as you traverse the turret using the transmitter.

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Postby Max-U52 » Tue Feb 12, 2019 12:40 am

Which IBU2 do you have, base or pro? If pro, you can run your turret rotation servo, elevation servo and recoil servo with the IBU, get flash and sound, and with Y cables use the sabertooth for motor control. I did it on my 1/6 Hetzer and I have all the sounds and functions available, but I changed up a few things. I'm using pots on the FlySky i10 for elevation and traverse so I don't get sound. I'm using the servo elevation for traverse on the remote MG34 so I get traverse sounds, but that's not realistic since the MG34 was manually operated and didn't make any noise! 8)

Seriously, though, give that IBU a try, you may be pleasantly surprised. 8)
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Postby minimivic » Sun Feb 24, 2019 9:37 pm

Little update video.
https://flic.kr/p/R9x3MD
Open panzer board is now in control.

I have a gun sound problem but things are gong in the right direction.
Wiring to tidy once happy, then onto turret etc.

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