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This Leo is a big one and the hull sides are not very stiff. So being very lazy I thought ok ok it's fine. And it probably is.

But after one the tracks broke after one month of use ( yeah driving through the clay soaked polders of The Netherlands is a great idea ) I got time to fiddle and twiddle.

I don't know if it really helps but I force myself to think it really helps



U profile alu balks fastened with superglue, a hard plastic L profile at the left side and at the back a green painted hard plastic tube. Two soft plastic balks to reinforce the rear grille, cause I have that habit to smash the rear to everything. The soft plastic hopefully help as shock absorbs, alu ones could just help to breaking the hull. Well maybe.

Also some plasticard to minimize water coming in the gear box department.

And added some extra weight in the fore hull part.

Please feel free to say "you could have as well have going to McDonalds, time better spent" or so

Nope, U channel is a good idea, can use smaller section than a similar strength angle.
One thing, I would recommend screws with nuts to hold it in place for better and safer mechanical fixing.

Could you not fix the U channel all the way along without the L angle on that side? Would be stronger with a continuous length like the other side.

Edit: "Nope" is to the McDonalds comment.

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Nope, U channel is a good idea, can use smaller section than a similar strength angle.
One thing, I would recommend screws with nuts to hold it in place for better and safer mechanical fixing.

Yes I was thinking about that, and maybe do one time. Drawbacks, maybe? These nuts come outside of the hulls and will be a place were the real muds stick to it with the possible risk of accumulating to much mud which can hamper the movement of the tracks.

It is already this without nuts:

Use countersunk screws with their heads flush in the outside plastic, then the nuts on the inside

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Use countersunk screws with their heads flush in the outside plastic, then the nuts on the inside

Good idea

Screws like this with the head on the outside.

Countersunk Head Screws, Hexagon Socket Products | Zoro UK
https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/fasteners/c ... kPEALw_wcB

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Nope, U channel is a good idea, can use smaller section than a similar strength angle.
One thing, I would recommend screws with nuts to hold it in place for better and safer mechanical fixing.

Could you not fix the U channel all the way along without the L angle on that side? Would be stronger with a continuous length like the other side.

Edit: "Nope" is to the McDonalds comment.

Yep would be better, but this L angle was attached some time ago, and fixed with superglue. Could always remove but yeah I am lazy. Must say this L profile being this big is quite stiff.

Or possibly 4mm if the nuts will fit in the channel. It's just to help the glue when the chassis/hull tries to flex.

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Screws like this with the head on the outside.

Countersunk Head Screws, Hexagon Socket Products | Zoro UK
https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/fasteners/c ... kPEALw_wcB

Looks good

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Or possibly 4mm if the nuts will fit in the channel. It's just to help the glue when the chassis/hull tries to flex.

Will do that in stage 2 of the never ending mod story.