Hull strengthening Heng Long Leopard 2a6

This board contains easy-to-do fixes on your new tanks from stock. This will hopefully help beginners to get the accuracy they want from their models.

Postby seb4 » Thu Jan 17, 2019 5:35 pm

This Leo is a big one and the hull sides are not very stiff. So being very lazy I thought ok ok it's fine. And it probably is.

But after one the tracks broke after one month of use ( yeah driving through the clay soaked polders of The Netherlands is a great idea :( ) I got time to fiddle and twiddle.

I don't know if it really helps but I force myself to think it really helps 8|

Image

U profile alu balks fastened with superglue, a hard plastic L profile at the left side and at the back a green painted hard plastic tube. Two soft plastic balks to reinforce the rear grille, cause I have that habit to smash the rear to everything. The soft plastic hopefully help as shock absorbs, alu ones could just help to breaking the hull. Well maybe.

Also some plasticard to minimize water coming in the gear box department.

And added some extra weight in the fore hull part.

Please feel free to say "you could have as well have going to McDonalds, time better spent" or so :wtf:

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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Thu Jan 17, 2019 5:59 pm

Nope, U channel is a good idea, can use smaller section than a similar strength angle.
One thing, I would recommend screws with nuts to hold it in place for better and safer mechanical fixing.

Could you not fix the U channel all the way along without the L angle on that side? Would be stronger with a continuous length like the other side.

Edit: "Nope" is to the McDonalds comment.
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Postby seb4 » Thu Jan 17, 2019 6:12 pm

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Nope, U channel is a good idea, can use smaller section than a similar strength angle.
One thing, I would recommend screws with nuts to hold it in place for better and safer mechanical fixing.


Yes I was thinking about that, and maybe do one time. Drawbacks, maybe? These nuts come outside of the hulls and will be a place were the real muds stick to it with the possible risk of accumulating to much mud which can hamper the movement of the tracks.

It is already this without nuts:

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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Thu Jan 17, 2019 6:15 pm

Use countersunk screws with their heads flush in the outside plastic, then the nuts on the inside :thumbup:
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Postby seb4 » Thu Jan 17, 2019 6:16 pm

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Use countersunk screws with their heads flush in the outside plastic, then the nuts on the inside :thumbup:


Good idea :thumbup:

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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Thu Jan 17, 2019 6:17 pm

Screws like this with the head on the outside.

Countersunk Head Screws, Hexagon Socket Products | Zoro UK
https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/fasteners/c ... kPEALw_wcB
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Postby seb4 » Thu Jan 17, 2019 6:19 pm

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Nope, U channel is a good idea, can use smaller section than a similar strength angle.
One thing, I would recommend screws with nuts to hold it in place for better and safer mechanical fixing.

Could you not fix the U channel all the way along without the L angle on that side? Would be stronger with a continuous length like the other side.

Edit: "Nope" is to the McDonalds comment.


Yep would be better, but this L angle was attached some time ago, and fixed with superglue. Could always remove but yeah I am lazy. :crazy: Must say this L profile being this big is quite stiff.

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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Thu Jan 17, 2019 6:20 pm

Or possibly 4mm if the nuts will fit in the channel. It's just to help the glue when the chassis/hull tries to flex.
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Postby seb4 » Thu Jan 17, 2019 6:21 pm

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Screws like this with the head on the outside.

Countersunk Head Screws, Hexagon Socket Products | Zoro UK
https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/fasteners/c ... kPEALw_wcB


Looks good :clap:

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Postby seb4 » Thu Jan 17, 2019 6:23 pm

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Or possibly 4mm if the nuts will fit in the channel. It's just to help the glue when the chassis/hull tries to flex.


Will do that in stage 2 of the never ending mod story. ;D

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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Thu Jan 17, 2019 6:24 pm

Well, it's up to you, if it works as it is and the glue holds, save the screws idea till the time it lets you down. Also I was thinking that the large angle could be in the way.
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Postby seb4 » Thu Jan 17, 2019 6:29 pm

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Well, it's up to you, if it works as it is and the glue holds, save the screws idea till the time it lets you down. Also I was thinking that the large angle could be in the way.


No it is a good idea. The large angle is not in the way, the turret can rotate freely. Sheer luck cause as a beginner did not think about that. :'(

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Postby Son of a gun-ner » Thu Jan 17, 2019 6:35 pm

Plastic hulls always benefit from extra strength, however it is done.
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Postby seb4 » Fri Jan 18, 2019 4:47 am

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Plastic hulls always benefit from extra strength, however it is done.

Thanks.

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Postby seb4 » Fri Jan 18, 2019 4:59 am

Wardog wrote:I would have braced the whole length of the tank,and one either end. Maybe one across the motor,bolted to the sides
But you have used u shape instead of maybe L shape.maybe you can put a brace in front of the motor from the stuff you are using.
If the hull does not flex in your hands then you have achieved. :thumbup:


Yes I would like to do to so but it was not possible. There is no room for reinforcement in the gearbox department on the hull sides, see picture.

A brace in front of the motor was not possible since then I will not have enough space to take the gearboxes out if needed.

Putting force on the hull sides with my hands it now feels quite a but more stiff so I hope it is OK for the moment. I can always fit some screws through the u and L shaped balks if needed later.

Thanks for your comment!

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