Using Photo-etch parts

[jarndice]

I don't have any "Voyager" products to hand but straight out of the packaging the "Aber Tjger 1 Fenders" are 2.2mm thick.
I always back them with 1mm Plasticard because they lack the meat for any off road exploits without support.

[HERMAN BIX]

2.2mm?
That’s scaled up to 34mm thick.
Surely they must be no more than 0.3mm ?
Most engineers suppliers would carry shim material that includes brass that could be used to fabricate various bits without the cost of brand name hobby P.E.

[jarndice]

Oh all right then .2mm (Point 2 MM)
I did warn you my eyes were no good

[43rdRecceReg]

2.2mm?
That’s scaled up to 34mm thick.
Surely they must be no more than 0.3mm ?
Most engineers suppliers would carry shim material that includes brass that could be used to fabricate various bits without the cost of brand name hobby P.E.

That's what I was thinking, HB. Unfortunately, I ordered shim lately, and instead of getting a piece of nice, thin, flexible brass sheet- I received something suitable for armour plate
I'm getting used to seeing dimensions in Metric figures these days, especially on Ebay, and failed to notice that the vendor was still stuck in the Imperial system.
To use one of Shaun's favourite dictums (one he's forgotten a few times lately ): 'Don't assume-check, laddie!!' (...subtext: 'Or, you'll be doing jankers!)

[HERMAN BIX]

Shim when I used it was supplied in Thou.
The metric units are (for me) easier to judge, but with years of interaction with both its not so bad.
Brass does need to be annealed sometimes to be easier to shape, but in the thickness and sizes we need, thin shin will work out of the box.

[silversurfer1947]

I measured the thickness of the Voyager photo etch for my Panzer 38(T). The 2 main pieces are 0.25mm and the smaller detail which were mainly the clamps 0.15mm

[ronnie42]

Why not find some brass sheet, got one and its .3mm perfect for the panther as its .3 * 16 so almost perfect for Panther side skirts . Another plus is its stronger and holds its shape better that Aber PE and still easy to work with.

My diy PE supply.

[43rdRecceReg]

Thanks, HB, Richard, and Ronnie (with the good looking micrometer!).
I'd forgotten how useful a micrometer could be. In fact, I had a vernier caliper until recently, but chucked it in a fit of pique, as it required constant zeroing, and then the digital display packed up. Yes, I could have used it manually, but I really don't like shoddily made tools...
I could use the edges of the Voyager sprues, in the meantime, without impacting on the PE bits. I'm hoping to make some tool clamps for the sides of the engine deck. The tools themselves (track tools) can be cut, and shaped, from styrene.

[silversurfer1947]

If you change your mind and decide to go with commercial clamps. I would recommend the Voyager over the Aber. The latter are more accurate but a real b****r to assemble. The Voyager are not simple but certainly a lot easier.

[43rdRecceReg]

If you change your mind and decide to go with commercial clamps. I would recommend the Voyager over the Aber. The latter are more accurate but a real b****r to assemble. The Voyager are not simple but certainly a lot easier.

Thanks, Richard. I saw listings for German clamps in 1/16 on Aber's inventory, but nothing for British armour. However, superficially, the brackets look quite similar. For this reason, I'll try to make my own.
Having been let down on Ebay and Amazon with supplies of brass shim, I struck lucky with Etsy.


These are .25mm. Hopefully, they'll be easy enough to trim, and shape, without being too weak to retain their shape.
Here's the link fo anyone needing PE gauge brass shim. The supplier here is UK based, and this makes a pleasant change.
https://www.etsy.com/uk/search?q=brass%20sheets