Taigen JS2

[Dusty Steppes]

Does the manual mention an adjustable idler?

[General Jumbo01]

When you say the manual, is that the one we were waiting for from August to November to be completed, before the wrong camo had been applied etc etc? The slip of paper that describes the use of a standard 6ch radio system is quite clear. The main text however is rather sketchy, covering some aspects well and some not. However, the T34 manual didn't mention tension adjustment yet it did have it.

Look....were MEN! We don't read manuals!!

[Dusty Steppes]

When you say the manual, is that the one we were waiting for from August to November to be completed, before the wrong camo had been applied etc etc? The slip of paper that describes the use of a standard 6ch radio system is quite clear. The main text however is rather sketchy, covering some aspects well and some not. However, the T34 manual didn't mention tension adjustment yet it did have it.

Look....were MEN! We don't read manuals!!

At least they included a slip of paper!

[General Jumbo01]

In between writing a book on this forum this afternoon I've been tinkering with my new JS-2 and resolved the power switch problem and, l think, the track tension adjustment question.

Firstly the small niggle of having to park the turret at 90 degrees to the chassis so that you can open the rear hatch to power up/down the tank. Its very annoying to have to carry and store the tank with that long barrel sticking out to the side. I don't like to force the turret around when powered down with that very fragile sounding clacking noise from the turret rotatio drive. It soon becomes a major niggle!

The solution is simple. I started to slip the nose catch and unfasten the battery plug for storage. Today, fed up with breaking nails on the Tamiya plug, l cut the leads from the Tamiya plug that runs up to the switch under the rear hatch and soldered in a nice, solid second switch. To power off for storage or being transported l now just slip the nose catch and turn off the new switch just inside the hull front. Solved.

Whilst messing around inside the nose l noticed that the hubs that the idler wheels are attached to are in turn attached to the hull by a single screw just inside the hull side. Since the screw that holds the hub is off centre of the idler wheel, by slackening the hub screw you should be able to turn this and, in doing so, adjust the track tension - the same method as used on the T-34. I'll check this out and report back tomorrow as The Blues Brothers has just started on TCM!

[PainlessWolf]

Good afternoon,
General, you have made the same improvements that I have seen as required. Aside from fixing the (very) few bits of broken plastic with some two part epoxy and filler, I have not managed much yet in the way of those improvements. Aside from a detail job ( I did make and install an antenna and added a Tamiya MG barrel to the turret fixture in back ) and some paint work, this tank is amazing. I love the new sounds and it runs as smooth as anything I own already. All the electronics work and are pleasingly simple to operate. Once the MG business is sorted out, I will install a regular receiver and add this to the models on my good radio. Thank you again, Dave and Julie!!! You really made my Christmas a great one. Pics and video as soon as all the snow from the latest blizzard this week melts away.
regards,
Painless

[forgebear]

hi painless glad you got the tank ok and had a great xmas
would love to see what you do with it now so pictures when ready bud
dave

[General Jumbo01]

Here's a couple of shots of the switch mod together with a warning. The Taigen switch mounted beneath the rear hatch is a DTDP switch. They have soldered the red battery cable to one pole pair and the red cable to the MFU to another pole pair. That leaves one remaining pair of tabs and to these they have soldered both black neutral cables, simply as an easy point to secure and join the ends.

When the switch is off the neutral leads and the red MFU lead are connected but since no power is present this doesn't matter.

When the switch is on the two red leads are connected powering the MFU but the neutral leads are now not connected so no short circuit is made. Frankly, this is sloppy work and the neutral leads should have been joined away from the switch OR have been properly wired opposite the red leads on the switch to act as a proper DPDT fully isolating switch. Why do l mention this?

A simple way of providing the second switch in the front of the hull would be to solder two additional wires from the two red wire tabs to the front hull switch so that you can turn off the rear switch with the turret at 90 degrees then turn on the front switch to power turn the turret and avoid forcing it around for carriage/storage.

IF YOU DO THIS YOU WILL SHORT THE CIRCUIT!

That's because when you turn off the rear switch you are shorting the unpowered red lead with the neutral pair and when you then switch on the front switch you power up the red MFU lead too!!

So.. instead, simply fit a new DPDT just inside the front hull that sits between the Tamiya battery plug and the existing rear switch. This is simpler, safer and by using the DPDT switch to break both the live and neutral leads you completely isolated the battery when in carriage or storage.

I'm sorry this is lengthy but if you agree that you do need to fit a second switch to this model and then do it wrong you will be melting cables and frying circuits! This is far too good a model for that!

Otherwise, all is great and the new JS-2 is running in very nicely.

Just to labour the safety aspects of the model, don't forget the turret and hull interior are all bare metal so all soldered joints and naked electrics (like the back side of a switch) will need to be insulated so keep the heatshrink to hand. I clued pieces of plasticard to the hull and then bonded the switch to that. Happy modding!

Sent from my ASUS_T00G using Tapatalk

[SteelBird]

Some Russian boys have their tank hit the snow. skip to 10:06 if you aren't concerned about the review (I don't understand Russian anyway)

[General Jumbo01]

Just sitting around watching nothing on TV so picked up the JS-2 manual. You know, the thing l said no real man would bother with...

Does the manual mention an adjustable idler?

Ummm.....doh!

Despite what l said (although my guess was right) if you look at the last page, 15, at the very bottom right....it says...

KETTENSPANNUNG EINSTELLEN

Or....adjusting track tension

So maybe, just maybe, it IS worth reading the manual

As l suspected, just back off that Allen headed screw and rotate the hub. Couldn't be simpler. And since the hull is metal, plenty strong enough to not need upgrading.

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[Dusty Steppes]

Good to know! Thanks!

Manuals and maps are similar items, rarely needed, tossed in a corner somewhere and glanced at only when one gets bored. There is not much of an adventure when you have to rely on directions.