RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I'm expecting delivery of my Stug III today. Bit excited so thought i would start this thread to keep track of my progress.

I've ordered a steel gearbox, metal sprockets/wheel to go with the metal tracks. Metal shockers and upgraded springs (just because they were cheap) and a metal machine gun with led just for the extra detail.

I expect the parts will turn up in the next 2 weeks as they coming from Aus. Will post picks as I work through this.

Anyone got any tips for stripping a HL Stug or PZ III down before I start. Any parts that can be easy damaged when taking to bits or things to watch out for?

Get yourself a good track tensioner mate. I did not put one on my PzIII Schlepper & now regret it.
I have had a StuG III for ages, its next in line to begin after the Panther.
I have the tensioner and am not afraid to use it

Stug great choice

you may want to use some superglue dissolver for removing parts
I found on my T-34 that the detail parts were very good
they were all snap fit and fitted very well indeed

but many items are fitted with steel screws with soft heads into softish plastic so go easy, use a well fitting driver and avoid over tightening, my 2c worth

I only had a minor issue with my Stug's, but both had the same issue - bought 2 years apart.

If you look straight on from the front, do the two front sections of bolt of armour run parallel? or is there a gap to left hand side. If there's a gap its more than likely due to the wiring for the headlight. The wiring leaves the hull and is bonded to the underside of the track deck. Either there's a blob of glue in the way or its the wires themselves stopping the upper and lower hulls coming together properly.

I only had one problem when I changed to lower ratio metal gearboxes on my Stug is that the gearboxes were ment to be used in something with rear drive sprockets which resulted in the forward and reverse being backward on the stock transmitter.
The only way to fix it was to open the transmitter up and reversing the placement of the wires on the control stick pot.

Good Morning,
Enjoy that StuG! With a little preparation and some basic detailing, you will have a grand Tank-Killer for years to come. ;o)
regards,
painless

Sweet as dude will be keeping an eye out for you posts as I should have my stug by yhe beginning of April

Sweet as dude will be keeping an eye out for you posts as I should have my stug by yhe beginning of April

So, this is the inside of the stug III. I couldnt find any pics of this anywhere else so here it is.



I'm having difficulty taking the recoil off at the moment, cant see how to remove it without braking it or unsoldering.

I want to change the recoil to a servo. Also turn the pivot mount upside down and mount it on a metal bracket with a single point to pivot on for traverse. Then remove the HL servo, cut the space tacken up by the box under the hatch out and fit a micro server for elevation. on the cupola side, fit another servo for traverse.

Hopefully will work. Now to figure out how to remove the recoil unit .....

Looks neat and simple in there,
sorry can't help with removing the parts, I Kept my electronics standard so far,
looking forward to the next step