M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Thank you Barry and Yan33,
Today i decided to work on the tracks before the Idler adjuster screws at the interior rear get more difficult to reach.
The assembly of the Bradley/MLRS tracks from AFV-model of Germany is easy and fast, very much the opposite of their Leopard 1 tracks that took me 24 hours to assemble 2 years ago.
The tracks are clean and well molded, the hole for the track pin do not have any residue inside and they align perfectly when assembled. Only the lip on one side need to be filed for a smooth operation before assembly. Once assembled, i ended up with a total of 8 spare tracks.
The track pin is too long. After putting some superglue on one end, the extra length on the other side is removed with a strait cut using a Dremel disk cutter. It takes a few minutes. The AFV-model early model rubber pads are discarded, they will be replaced with Big Foot pads as used by the M3A2 and A3.
First view of the tracks installed on the chassis before tests are made and before adjustment with the idler adjuster.
Close up view of the early Bradley tracks with the hole for the V shape rubber chevron.
Preliminary tests showed that the wheels are too tight and the tracks are sometimes jumping on them. This is easily fixed by grinding the roadwheel interior at an angle so that the track teeth can slide in between the road wheels more smoothly. This solved the first issue.
View of Friulmodel 1/35 kit graph of the late Bradley track with Big Foot rubber pads. Used for analysis for the conversion.
View of the Big foot track on a M2.
The rubber pads are usually quite worn out.
I decided to build a prototype of the Big foot conversion because i might need to order some material. As i expected, after a quick verification, i will not have enough 1mm thick rubber sheet material for all the tracks. I need to order some more from Ebay China for a few dollars. It will take a few weeks.
Continuing on following post.
Today i decided to work on the tracks before the Idler adjuster screws at the interior rear get more difficult to reach.
The assembly of the Bradley/MLRS tracks from AFV-model of Germany is easy and fast, very much the opposite of their Leopard 1 tracks that took me 24 hours to assemble 2 years ago.
The tracks are clean and well molded, the hole for the track pin do not have any residue inside and they align perfectly when assembled. Only the lip on one side need to be filed for a smooth operation before assembly. Once assembled, i ended up with a total of 8 spare tracks.
The track pin is too long. After putting some superglue on one end, the extra length on the other side is removed with a strait cut using a Dremel disk cutter. It takes a few minutes. The AFV-model early model rubber pads are discarded, they will be replaced with Big Foot pads as used by the M3A2 and A3.
First view of the tracks installed on the chassis before tests are made and before adjustment with the idler adjuster.
Close up view of the early Bradley tracks with the hole for the V shape rubber chevron.
Preliminary tests showed that the wheels are too tight and the tracks are sometimes jumping on them. This is easily fixed by grinding the roadwheel interior at an angle so that the track teeth can slide in between the road wheels more smoothly. This solved the first issue.
View of Friulmodel 1/35 kit graph of the late Bradley track with Big Foot rubber pads. Used for analysis for the conversion.
View of the Big foot track on a M2.
The rubber pads are usually quite worn out.
I decided to build a prototype of the Big foot conversion because i might need to order some material. As i expected, after a quick verification, i will not have enough 1mm thick rubber sheet material for all the tracks. I need to order some more from Ebay China for a few dollars. It will take a few weeks.
Continuing on following post.
Last edited by lmcq11 on Sun Dec 04, 2022 10:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
The hole for the early V shaped chevron is partially filled with a 1mm spacer in order to provide a base for the Big foot pad.
After a couple of minutes with the 1mm rubber sheet and a sharp new blade, i ended up with the prototype of the 1/16 Bradley Late Big Foot metal track with rubber pad. As i need around 180 of them, i can calculate between 6 and 10 hours of work. There is usually a way to create a systematic assembly chain that reduces the time, but not always.
That's it for now, next step is to perform some road test of the chassis and see how it goes. I can already see that i might need to put a stronger torsion bar at the second to last road wheel. I'll see once the track is adjusted.
Regards, Louis
After a couple of minutes with the 1mm rubber sheet and a sharp new blade, i ended up with the prototype of the 1/16 Bradley Late Big Foot metal track with rubber pad. As i need around 180 of them, i can calculate between 6 and 10 hours of work. There is usually a way to create a systematic assembly chain that reduces the time, but not always.
That's it for now, next step is to perform some road test of the chassis and see how it goes. I can already see that i might need to put a stronger torsion bar at the second to last road wheel. I'll see once the track is adjusted.
Regards, Louis
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Hello,
This post is for the motorization and suspension test, and the adjustments i had to make, plus a short Youtube demo video at the end.
View of the Idler adjuster. The adjustments are easy to make with a screwdriver without messing with the nut inside. My Bradley tracks have 86 track links each.
The idler and all road wheels have 2 ball bearings. All run well, no need for modifications.
Test runs were giving me a lot of problems with the idlers on both sides. I noticed that the idler wheel was not completely strait and aligned with the other roadwheels, the idler wheel was eating into the tracks. A small plasticard strip was placed on one side of the track adjuster to make it strait and it resolved the issue completely.
With the metal tracks on, the rear of the vehicle was a good 2mm lower than the front. I had to replace the 1mm suspension torsion bar on the second to last road wheel with a 1.5mm torsion bar.
As done earlier for the second roadwheel, the suspension arm metal shaft was enlarged just a little bit so that the 1.5mm torsion bar can fit inside.
Comparing the weak and distorted 1mm torsion bar with the stronger 1.5mm torsion bar. The 1.5mm bar is made from a steel push rod. What is critical again is to properly set the angle at the tip which fits under the screw inside the hull. That drives the angle and torque of the torsion bar in relation to the suspension arm.
Close up on the angle that need to be filed.
It helps to file the sharp tip of each track link teeth so that it does not cut into the road wheel. It runs a lot smoother this way.
Some links were still jumping on the sprocket teeth or were having difficulty exiting. All the sprocket teeth angles inside and out needed to be filed to make it easier to enter and exit the tracks links. It runs a lot more smoothly now.
The model as it stands today. I did run the model for a good 10 minutes on the floor, motor and suspension are running smoothly. Chassis is now strait between front and rear, and stable when going over obstacles. The heavier metal tracks and a good metal gearbox make a big difference in the running and stability of the vehicle.
And here is a short video of the chassis during workbench test.
Regards, Louis
This post is for the motorization and suspension test, and the adjustments i had to make, plus a short Youtube demo video at the end.
View of the Idler adjuster. The adjustments are easy to make with a screwdriver without messing with the nut inside. My Bradley tracks have 86 track links each.
The idler and all road wheels have 2 ball bearings. All run well, no need for modifications.
Test runs were giving me a lot of problems with the idlers on both sides. I noticed that the idler wheel was not completely strait and aligned with the other roadwheels, the idler wheel was eating into the tracks. A small plasticard strip was placed on one side of the track adjuster to make it strait and it resolved the issue completely.
With the metal tracks on, the rear of the vehicle was a good 2mm lower than the front. I had to replace the 1mm suspension torsion bar on the second to last road wheel with a 1.5mm torsion bar.
As done earlier for the second roadwheel, the suspension arm metal shaft was enlarged just a little bit so that the 1.5mm torsion bar can fit inside.
Comparing the weak and distorted 1mm torsion bar with the stronger 1.5mm torsion bar. The 1.5mm bar is made from a steel push rod. What is critical again is to properly set the angle at the tip which fits under the screw inside the hull. That drives the angle and torque of the torsion bar in relation to the suspension arm.
Close up on the angle that need to be filed.
It helps to file the sharp tip of each track link teeth so that it does not cut into the road wheel. It runs a lot smoother this way.
Some links were still jumping on the sprocket teeth or were having difficulty exiting. All the sprocket teeth angles inside and out needed to be filed to make it easier to enter and exit the tracks links. It runs a lot more smoothly now.
The model as it stands today. I did run the model for a good 10 minutes on the floor, motor and suspension are running smoothly. Chassis is now strait between front and rear, and stable when going over obstacles. The heavier metal tracks and a good metal gearbox make a big difference in the running and stability of the vehicle.
And here is a short video of the chassis during workbench test.
Regards, Louis
- PershingLover
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Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
At what point do you start building a full size tank? Actually, I'm still not convinced you aren't just hitting the real thing with a shrink ray..
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
WoW!!! I love your work buddy!
the interior is superb!
the interior is superb!
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Thanks, I have to say that this build has some of the most intense modelling moments of my life. But it's going well.PershingLover wrote: ↑Tue Dec 06, 2022 10:37 am At what point do you start building a full size tank? Actually, I'm still not convinced you aren't just hitting the real thing with a shrink ray..
Thanks Carson, I have some experience with fighting compartment interior. I am a big fan of Armored Fighting Vehicles and i have done interiors for a Bundeswehr Marder 1A1, Russian BMP-1, many M-113. It brings new challenges and a new dimension to the RC vehicle, and do something i have not seen before.
Continuing with the build
The following set of posts are for the interior and turret basket, with a short YOUTUBE video at the end showing the turret basket rotation in action.
The Bradley has two jerrycans in the rear compartment. These are the very nicely molded resin modern US Jerrycan from SOL Models, different for water and fuel.
The stand at the back, created as seen in references.
The crew in the rear fighting compartment have a tactical screen providing operational data, same as for commander and gunner in the turret, and driver. Dimensions are extrapolated from the Meng kit. I started by building the screen square components to fit a LED inside.
In order to reflect the light towards the inside and avoid going through the side plastic and back, i coated the inside with aluminum sheet.
The 1/35 Meng kit provides decals that can be scanned and brought to 1/16, and they contain the flat screens.
This is the completed tactical screen with LED inside and with stand that will fit inside the rear compartment roof.
Now going to the turret basket. I had difficulty finding good references on it. The Sabot Publications book "M2A3 Bradley Fighting Vehicle Vol.2" has some specific shots that are very important for the build, showing the turret under maintenance. These books are a must have for a Bradley build, highly recommended.
Showing the front right. The bin between the cable box and the turret interior bulkhead is the ammunition bin for the 25mm chain gun.
Front left. Sadly, no picture of the bottom interior of the turret basket was provided.
The Meng 1/35 kit provided some important measurements for this build. The regular kit of the M3A3 is of good quality but the separate interior kit that fits inside is surprisingly botched and incomplete. Parts do not fit well, need putty everywhere and is mostly inaccurate. With a $30 price tag for this interior kit, Meng could have done much better.
Continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Mon Dec 12, 2022 3:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
I was shocked and very disappointed that the whole frontal section of the turret basket is missing from the Meng kit. This area is very important. It is incomprehensible that it was not included in the kit as it can be seen from the rear view inside the hull as the turret is rotated manually. As i indicated above, the whole Meng turret basket is botched and inaccurate.
The construction of the turret basket is initiated telescopically from the bottom up. It is critical that the turret basket be round and fit the turret cage. To get to the proper thickness of the bottom floor section, it is simpler to create two roundels from 2mm plasticard and then glue them together than trying to do a single one out of 4mm plates.
Basic shapes are created.
Bottom section.
From reference pictures, the frontal support are tubes.
I was missing information on the middle section tubes (how high) and i had to invent something that would provide solidity to the rolled metal on the sides.
One step at a time.
Frontal area core components, from reference pictures. Cables are reproduced in brass rods.
Inside the turret basket. All the important electronics of the vehicles are in the upper area of the turret, which makes it simpler for me the builder.
Continuing on following posts
The construction of the turret basket is initiated telescopically from the bottom up. It is critical that the turret basket be round and fit the turret cage. To get to the proper thickness of the bottom floor section, it is simpler to create two roundels from 2mm plasticard and then glue them together than trying to do a single one out of 4mm plates.
Basic shapes are created.
Bottom section.
From reference pictures, the frontal support are tubes.
I was missing information on the middle section tubes (how high) and i had to invent something that would provide solidity to the rolled metal on the sides.
One step at a time.
Frontal area core components, from reference pictures. Cables are reproduced in brass rods.
Inside the turret basket. All the important electronics of the vehicles are in the upper area of the turret, which makes it simpler for me the builder.
Continuing on following posts
Last edited by lmcq11 on Mon Dec 12, 2022 3:42 am, edited 2 times in total.
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
This is the mostly completed turret basket. It is still missing the seats and some fan at the bottom right, but i could not wait to install it on the upper chassis and see it in action. This is not a perfect rendition but all the main components are reproduced. The idea is to show something interesting without spending weeks or months on this.
The turret basket is anchored on the bottom of the rotation wheel. Believe me, a lot of dry fitting went into this at every step of the creation of the basket. Completely scratch built and done without plans on a best effort basis, the creation of the turret basket was an intense modelling experience. At this point and until the build is finished, the turret basket is held using a couple of drop of superglue on the four support. It is important that everything remains removable in case something is required. It is important that the basket is centrally positioned, avoiding any wobble that would cause tons of issues.
Also, at this point, the turret cabling (servos, LEDs) are not yet installed alongside the basket all the way to the bottom of the cage. Only the turret interior light is temporarily installed for testing purposes. All the other cabling need to wait for the configuration of the turret electronics before they are fixed.
The Heng Long plastic rotation unit coming with the kit is replaced by a Mato metal High Torque turret rotation gearbox, which make a big difference.
And here are some pictures of the interior of the vehicle with the latest additions, with turret basket rotation enabled. Sliding the turret basket into the cage was done many times throughout construction to avoid any surprises. Rotation was done manually to identify any resistance. The fit is perfect. It is always a big moment when the rotation unit rotates the turret on its own for the first time.
And finally, here is a short YOUTUBE video of the turret basket in action. Normally on the real vehicle, the turret would not rotate when the rear compartment access panel is open, probably to avoid someone being cut in half, but this is an RC showcase so e everything is possible.
Next step is to finalize the interior with a few more details, install the rear ramp and servo opening/closing mechanism, and then move to the electronics, connect the weapons systems (25mm chain gun, 7.62mm Machine gun and Tow missile launcher), and setup Elmod fusion configuration.
Regards, Louis
The turret basket is anchored on the bottom of the rotation wheel. Believe me, a lot of dry fitting went into this at every step of the creation of the basket. Completely scratch built and done without plans on a best effort basis, the creation of the turret basket was an intense modelling experience. At this point and until the build is finished, the turret basket is held using a couple of drop of superglue on the four support. It is important that everything remains removable in case something is required. It is important that the basket is centrally positioned, avoiding any wobble that would cause tons of issues.
Also, at this point, the turret cabling (servos, LEDs) are not yet installed alongside the basket all the way to the bottom of the cage. Only the turret interior light is temporarily installed for testing purposes. All the other cabling need to wait for the configuration of the turret electronics before they are fixed.
The Heng Long plastic rotation unit coming with the kit is replaced by a Mato metal High Torque turret rotation gearbox, which make a big difference.
And here are some pictures of the interior of the vehicle with the latest additions, with turret basket rotation enabled. Sliding the turret basket into the cage was done many times throughout construction to avoid any surprises. Rotation was done manually to identify any resistance. The fit is perfect. It is always a big moment when the rotation unit rotates the turret on its own for the first time.
And finally, here is a short YOUTUBE video of the turret basket in action. Normally on the real vehicle, the turret would not rotate when the rear compartment access panel is open, probably to avoid someone being cut in half, but this is an RC showcase so e everything is possible.
Next step is to finalize the interior with a few more details, install the rear ramp and servo opening/closing mechanism, and then move to the electronics, connect the weapons systems (25mm chain gun, 7.62mm Machine gun and Tow missile launcher), and setup Elmod fusion configuration.
Regards, Louis
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Just read through this little lot and all I can say is .....WOW
Good god man, your attention to detail is outstanding, superb work.
Good god man, your attention to detail is outstanding, superb work.