Replacing WSN with Taigen 2.4ghz electronics
Re: Replacing WSN with Taigen 2.4ghz electronics
Looks okay to me as long as you get the MG and the Light's +/- right (Can't really tell from the picture) and also assuming the red and white will be soldered together.
Re: Replacing WSN with Taigen 2.4ghz electronics
Aparently I suck at this... Wanted to start out with something simple and welded the 2 pin power cabel and battery cabel, to the on/off switch and this just happened. The weld is not pretty, but its done, so neither the solder or wires are touching anytihng it shouldnt. Unless I welded it completely wrong...?
If I fail at a simple power supply weld, I seriously doubt I will ever get the 8-pin working...
If I fail at a simple power supply weld, I seriously doubt I will ever get the 8-pin working...
Re: Replacing WSN with Taigen 2.4ghz electronics
Arnie, it should be okay if you keep it the same as the original HL wiring, but there are better way of wiring power switches. The stock wiring is simple but it is not perfect and can lead to burnt battery packs or worse burnt MFUs. Basically the stock switch is a two way switch, which means that the switch either connects one end or the other end to the middle pole. The factory wiring is such that the two black wires are on one end so they are always connected. The red wire from the MFU, and this is critical, is in the middle pole. The live red, which is from the battery, is on the other end pole.
The idea is that when the two pole switch is actually being wired as a single pole switch. When the switch is on the black and red, there is no power to anything so it doesn't matter. When the switch is on the other end, the two reds are connected, but more importantly, there is now power coming in from the battery red.
So if I look at your picture, you have the two reds jumped together in the middle pole, the black from the battery on the end pole, the moment you toggle the switch to the left, you basically just shorted the battery. You just wired up the switch to short the battery essentially since you just short the red to the black.
The stock wiring which will work but I don't recommend should be like this:
Left pole - black wires from the battery and the MFU.
Middle pole - red wire from the MFU.
Right pole - red wire from the battery.
So if the switch is on the left toggle, nothing happens since there is not a complete circuit from the battery's red s not connected to anything. When the switch is on the right toggle, now you have a complete circuit (The red from the battery is now connect the red from the MFU, and the blacks are always connected on the left pole anyway).
I don't like this method since you run the danger of a faulty switch or bad soldering and you are SOL since you will toast both the battery and the MFU. A better and proper way of wiring the two pole power switch should be like this:
Left pole - nothing
Middle pole - red wire from the MFU
Right pole - red wire from the battery.
black wires are jumped together by themselves and not on the switch at all. In this case, bad soldering or a faulty switch won't cause you to short black and red wires together. It will only give you power all the time (the reds are shorted together). Much safer for the battery and the MFU.
The idea is that when the two pole switch is actually being wired as a single pole switch. When the switch is on the black and red, there is no power to anything so it doesn't matter. When the switch is on the other end, the two reds are connected, but more importantly, there is now power coming in from the battery red.
So if I look at your picture, you have the two reds jumped together in the middle pole, the black from the battery on the end pole, the moment you toggle the switch to the left, you basically just shorted the battery. You just wired up the switch to short the battery essentially since you just short the red to the black.
The stock wiring which will work but I don't recommend should be like this:
Left pole - black wires from the battery and the MFU.
Middle pole - red wire from the MFU.
Right pole - red wire from the battery.
So if the switch is on the left toggle, nothing happens since there is not a complete circuit from the battery's red s not connected to anything. When the switch is on the right toggle, now you have a complete circuit (The red from the battery is now connect the red from the MFU, and the blacks are always connected on the left pole anyway).
I don't like this method since you run the danger of a faulty switch or bad soldering and you are SOL since you will toast both the battery and the MFU. A better and proper way of wiring the two pole power switch should be like this:
Left pole - nothing
Middle pole - red wire from the MFU
Right pole - red wire from the battery.
black wires are jumped together by themselves and not on the switch at all. In this case, bad soldering or a faulty switch won't cause you to short black and red wires together. It will only give you power all the time (the reds are shorted together). Much safer for the battery and the MFU.
Re: Replacing WSN with Taigen 2.4ghz electronics
Oh and just remember after seeing the burnt WSN battery pack. The WSN takes 9.6V battery packs and the Taigen only takes 7.2v. So you couldn't use the WSN ones for the Taigen MFU. This might be blessing in disguise since if you hook it up right it might have burnt your Taigen MFU..........
Re: Replacing WSN with Taigen 2.4ghz electronics
Thanks Michael 
I broke the switch after this, so have to get a new one anyway, so will follow your advice, once I get a new switch.
And the WSN batteries will go in the bin.
Thinking of just getting one of these to put in. ThenI wont have to worry about soldering the IR power supply either.
http://www.rctank.de/Battery-charging-s ... y?lang=eng
I broke the switch after this, so have to get a new one anyway, so will follow your advice, once I get a new switch.
And the WSN batteries will go in the bin.
Thinking of just getting one of these to put in. ThenI wont have to worry about soldering the IR power supply either.
http://www.rctank.de/Battery-charging-s ... y?lang=eng
