Heng long T34 first images

[Phil]

Good Morning,
Thanks for clearing that up, Phil. *bows* Alpha, Your KV-2 should have a taillight in the spot where HL ran the smoke exhaust through. That's a neat idea to have the firing LED be a brake light. Also, I think the new generation of RX-18s have a tail light plug like the IBU-2. ;o)
regards,
Painless

Yes the RX-18 does have a tail light plug, better check if you need a resistor on the LED before you plug one in.

[ALPHA]

Sorry being really dim here, the IBU2 has a plug outlet for a back light!

So I’ll reconnect the front light and use the IBU2 for the back.

The LED is just a normal LED

Hope you don't mind ... I think I might copy that little detail... it looks great..Think I'll try the same thing I did to the KV-2...I kind of like not having the tail light on all the time.... the brake light adds a little ..shall I say.. character lol...especially since I don't have the expertise to disarm the kick back...now from the back ..it's interesting

ALPHA

[ALPHA]

Good Morning,
Thanks for clearing that up, Phil. *bows* Alpha, Your KV-2 should have a taillight in the spot where HL ran the smoke exhaust through. That's a neat idea to have the firing LED be a brake light. Also, I think the new generation of RX-18s have a tail light plug like the IBU-2. ;o)
regards,
Painless

Yes Painless... that's where I put it...the LED fit perfectly ... and it works ....Do you know if anyone has done that before?....it's pretty cool ...the only problem was making sure the wire would clear the gears

ALPHA

[Jo F. Jr]

Hey Guyz,

sry for my rosty english skills, but i ve read a bit of that nice review here and like to admit something at this point. I ve already noticed the false height of the T-34 like all of you. For me it seems that all axes are incorrectly mounted if i look at one of the pictures. Its like that all axes are only mirror-inverted. If u change the right axes to the left side, and all left to the right side of the chassis, you will get the right height...

Maybe i help so1 here with my support

Regardz

Jo F. Jr

Hello Jo... have you tried your theory ?....Dr Phil found the solution for the early model of the HENG LONG T-34...and elaborated on it further softening the suspension ... I tried your theory... if you check earlier posts made by me... I explained changing the arms ... switching them left to right.... at the time it seemed logical... as the result is similar... but it doesn't work ...for one thing... you end up with less travel .... the second is for some reason the tension on the track is affected to such a degree that they will bind when changing direction or turning...locking up your gearboxes... sure this can also be solved changing the tracks... shortening them... but as i further explained... the way the tracks are designed they would become too short to work properly ... thus you now have to adjust the tension... another thing Dr Phil found you could do ... also explained in this thread ... but still that will not be enough as your travel is too limited in the mirrored exchange of the arms

The thing is.. the problem is no longer there as HENG LONG has fixed the problem with the new models now being distributed... so the "jacked up" look will be only on the old/early releases in ASIA
I know this because I have both... I bought one from a relatively shady online shop in asia... and one from EBAY.from a very good seller who had the full metal version for the price of the lower model that I got from China ...who is probably still selling the old model

That's the long and short of it.... So basically if you have the OLD model ... the best way to modify it is Dr, Phil's plastic in the travel guide of the hull and play with the springs ....if you have the NEW version... you can play with the springs... not to much I would add... as I also covered that in this thread

Thanks for the input... you must come back with some pictures of your model...as the T-34 is still a relatively new release... and not widely spread out yet... there are the WSNs ... which are slightly better "looking" ... but without major modification... work as well as the HENG LONG IMO that is

ALPHA

Hey Alpha,

i dislike to argue, but today i ordered a hl t-34 here in Germany and asked the seller before to write to Heng Long if they solved any problems with the hight of the t-34. as answer he got this!
"Dear D...,
i can ensure tell you that HL T-34 which idler wheel are have not change , it is still same.
i just confirm it with HL engineer ,thanks..."

The seller mentioned it must be a rumor, because HL didnt changed anything. It might be a disinformation?

Regards Jo F.

[wibblywobbly]

Thanks for that tip, an excellent idea. I used to struggle with an old empty gearbox casing. You will have to imagine that there is a big smiley and a thumbs up here as my tablet doesn't display them at all.

[ALPHA]

Hey Guyz,

sry for my rosty english skills, but i ve read a bit of that nice review here and like to admit something at this point. I ve already noticed the false height of the T-34 like all of you. For me it seems that all axes are incorrectly mounted if i look at one of the pictures. Its like that all axes are only mirror-inverted. If u change the right axes to the left side, and all left to the right side of the chassis, you will get the right height...

Maybe i help so1 here with my support

Regardz

Jo F. Jr

Hello Jo... have you tried your theory ?....Dr Phil found the solution for the early model of the HENG LONG T-34...and elaborated on it further softening the suspension ... I tried your theory... if you check earlier posts made by me... I explained changing the arms ... switching them left to right.... at the time it seemed logical... as the result is similar... but it doesn't work ...for one thing... you end up with less travel .... the second is for some reason the tension on the track is affected to such a degree that they will bind when changing direction or turning...locking up your gearboxes... sure this can also be solved changing the tracks... shortening them... but as i further explained... the way the tracks are designed they would become too short to work properly ... thus you now have to adjust the tension... another thing Dr Phil found you could do ... also explained in this thread ... but still that will not be enough as your travel is too limited in the mirrored exchange of the arms

The thing is.. the problem is no longer there as HENG LONG has fixed the problem with the new models now being distributed... so the "jacked up" look will be only on the old/early releases in ASIA
I know this because I have both... I bought one from a relatively shady online shop in asia... and one from EBAY.from a very good seller who had the full metal version for the price of the lower model that I got from China ...who is probably still selling the old model

That's the long and short of it.... So basically if you have the OLD model ... the best way to modify it is Dr, Phil's plastic in the travel guide of the hull and play with the springs ....if you have the NEW version... you can play with the springs... not to much I would add... as I also covered that in this thread

Thanks for the input... you must come back with some pictures of your model...as the T-34 is still a relatively new release... and not widely spread out yet... there are the WSNs ... which are slightly better "looking" ... but without major modification... work as well as the HENG LONG IMO that is

ALPHA

Hey Alpha,

i dislike to argue, but today i ordered a hl t-34 here in Germany and asked the seller before to write to Heng Long if they solved any problems with the hight of the t-34. as answer he got this!
"Dear D...,
i can ensure tell you that HL T-34 which idler wheel are have not change , it is still same.
i just confirm it with HL engineer ,thanks..."

The seller mentioned it must be a rumor, because HL didnt changed anything. It might be a disinformation?

Regards Jo F.

Hello Jo... No arguments from me... but the photos I have on this thread of my new version pretty much speak for themselves... the height has been adjusted from the factory on that one... I think when you receive yours ... it should be the same as my new one... the good thing is.. If it isn't Phil solved the problem

Because my first T34... was exactly like Phil's... and I used his method of changing the height with the plastic card...I do recommend NOT switching the arms... I tried thinking I would get the same effect... all I can say is it was time wasted

GOOD TO MEET YOU JOE

ALPHA

[Phil]

Little update, I swopped out the electrics for an IBU2 Pro and added a fantastic TPA unit which is a twin channel (6W+6W) audio amplifier allowing the use of two speakers, one channel is dedicated to play the engine sound and the other to play all the sound effects. Both channels have a separate volume control for fine level adjustment.




After the install I moved the two volume controls under the front hatch, as for the speakers they had to sit down the chassis to avoid being hit by the bottom of the BB gun motor. Update, I had to move one speaker over and take off the card box so it could fit at an angle to clear the turret rotation motor as the turret BB gun motor hit it. Very little room to fit things in but an IR turret would have more room.

[HERMAN BIX]

even in this 16th scale, the architypical cramped layout of the 'best tank in WW2" presents similar issues. This being the '85 the breach is slightly bigger than the '76 which required the bigger turret.................what did they do to compensate, hire dwarf-tankers from a side show in Moldovia !!??

[ALPHA]

Good to see you getting back in the groove of things again Phil... looks like the T34 went neglected for awhile

All the best on your recovery

ALPHA

[Phil]

Thank you Alpha

It was a trying time, couldn't do any modelling at the end and signed off work, no driving it was a pain as my job is visual. Photography and design.

Any hoooo back in the game eye sight better than before!

Again thank you