How to...

[silversurfer1947]

If you mean the two red coated wires in your right hand, they are the aerial and can go anywhere. I have seen it recommended that they be at right angles to each other.

[HammerWihoutASickle]

If you mean the two red coated wires in your right hand, they are the aerial and can go anywhere. I have seen it recommended that they be at right angles to each other.

Thanks for the info; but I meant the wires on the current airsoft assembly. I have a clark recoil unit that goes in place of that, but it looks like I need to rewire them. Actually, remove them first so I can attach the gun barrel to its black coloured holder.

[maxmekker]

Adding a fuse to main Power

I shorthen the wires on the fuseholder for better fitment into the hull

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[maxmekker]

adding rear light to CN9 output ( + resistor )

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[HammerWihoutASickle]

adding rear light to CN9 output ( + resistor )

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Yeeees! More updates.
I pray I do not f*** this up.

[HammerWihoutASickle]

I did something. I hope I didn't do it wrong.

(Send help)

Sent from my Phone using Tapatalk

[maxmekker]

as long as the solder points dont melts together you're fine

[HammerWihoutASickle]

Here's hoping.
I can't seem to find the resistor you gave me; I know you did because I saw it.

I hope I didn't misplace it.

[HammerWihoutASickle]

So - my build is almost complete.

A few issues:
- No lights
- Rear lights switch on when I elevate the gun
- Tank doesn't traverse

A few things for the nice people doing something like this, and are doing it for the very first time:
- Airsoft unit replacement:
So Clark's instructions weren't clear enough for me, and I had Max (Stian) helping me out all the way through. The whole recoil and elevation unit needs additional sanding, so it is recommended you smooth out the inner barrel so the recoil unit can work its pixie magic. Additionally, there are ball bearings and small slots on the cradle for you to place them in (I didn't because it's a bit too tight); so first, with a toothpick, put some grease or vaseline in the slots and cover the balls with them so they move properly. Next, the elevation part is known to slip if you have a slightly larger recoil servo right underneath it, so be careful of that. Once you assemble it, you'll need to remove the wires connecting the black mantlet (it goes over the top if the gun) to the airsoft unit. Remove the movable part of the mantlet like you do for Taigen tracks, with a pin or a thumb-pin that you use to put papers up on a softboard. Next, slowly take out the lights from the top and the MG port.
Now comes the annoyingly difficult part. You will need to cut the barrel holder to separate the mantlet from it (I broke mine and glued it together later).
Picture:

Once you've done that, attach the part to the top of the elevation unit; use the top turret for reference just in case you're afraid of it getting caught on an edge when it elevates and depresses. gg. Also you'll need to drill an additional hole in the bottom part of the turret so you can hold down the base of the elevation servo when it starts doing its job. Don't forget to reconnect the moving part of the mantlet after you're done.

- Turret:
Just take the spring out, you don't need it anymore if you have the Clark elevation and recoil unit.
Test elevation and turret traverse with the upper hull on later, and then again when before you attach the hull together to see if anything is obstructing it while traversing and elevating.

- Wires:
Remember the wires for the turret MG? Find the wire attached to the airsoft unit, there's a black part that holds the wires together that you can unscrew to remove the wire from there. Do that, and take the wire (along with the LED) out. Place the LED in the slot on the side of the elevation unit (the big one that holds the cannon); you can't miss it; and place it in there; don't push it too hard. Once you place the mantlet, take the metal part that is supposed to be the MG and push it all the way back inside the slot; again, don't push too much. There; you're done now. You can close up the turret now. Don't forget to put the wires for the MG, recoil, and elevation down and place them in a way where it doesn't obstruct the function of the servos.
Some small tape required.

-Radio:
You might need to reverse the turret traverse channel - Max said it was Channel 1, but it was 4 or something for me.

Well, that's all for now.
If anyone knows how I can solve the lack of lights and hull traverse (turn), please let me know.
I hope this clears up any misunderstandings for noobs like me, and that it is helpful in some way.

EDIT:
Okay, so I've cleared up some of the issues with Maxmekker's help; again. So if you have an issue with hull traverse, switch the mode on your radio to mode 2 (flyski i6) to Mode 2, and reverse channel 1 if you're used to the HL control layout - if you have the schematic from Clark, look at the control layouts for reference.
I only have the lights to fix now. Later!