Re: Elmod can be very fragile

[ICE]monkey · Post by **[ICE]monkey** » Wed Apr 22, 2009 7:16 pm

as you know i have the older elmod in my tiger1 and the pershing and i was going for elmod in the pzIII but im not so sure now,
i might see if i can get my hands on the old det up, [ mission imposible], but you never no
all the best, ice

grim_marmazet · Post by **grim_marmazet** » Wed Apr 22, 2009 11:08 pm

I have the Blaster III and the ThinkTank Module. I've not wired them up yet, but now i'm a tad worried they won't work when I do.

Oh well, only one way to find out.

grompix · Post by **grompix** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:49 am

I've got the older Elmod units in my Sherman and PzIII. I was thinking of ordering another setup for a future PzIV project I have planned. I've had no problems with the old versions of Elmod but after reading this thread I don't think I'll bother ordering any more until they sort out the failing components.

If Elmod don't get these problems sorted then they'll lose customer confidence and their sales will plummet. That would be a sad loss to them and the RC-Tank community.

Chris

wibblywobbly · Post by **wibblywobbly** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 10:04 pm

Just got this reply from Elmod:

Hello!
I'm sorry to hear that. The ESCs on the TankModule are exactly the same like on the Afterburner, so it won't make any sense to replace it with the old parts (besides that they aren't available anymore).The problem must be another. There are in the meantime several hunderts of the TankModules, some weights 20kg and runs with 12V without any flaws. The MOSFETs of the RX14-board cannot provide the half of the power.
Nevertheless,you can send the parts back. I'll talk with my partner about the refund.
Best regards,
Thomas

Bear in mind that I removed the Thinktank with melting esc's and installed an RX14, and the tank went like a scalded cat with no overheating problems. Something very strange is going on?? It can't be anything other than the Elmod boards as I haven't changed anything else? I will await their decision on the refund, its a shame I can't get hold of the old boards, they seem to be very reliable.

Rob G

The Blitz · Post by **The Blitz** » Fri May 01, 2009 12:50 am

Just out of curiousity how did you hook up the motors! One motor iwth wires going to the left and right connection points?

The BlitZ

wibblywobbly · Post by **wibblywobbly** » Fri May 01, 2009 9:50 am

On the Elmod? Yes, there are four connectors. LRLR. Just connect each motor +/- to an L & L, and the other motor +/-to a R & R connector. Pull the jumper while the battery is connected and the tank is switched on.

L = Left motor
R = Right motor

The motors will run in test mode.

Check that they both run forwards. If they don't then simply swap the +/- wires over for that motor. It's just pot luck as to whether you get it right first time.

Cheers

Rob

The Blitz · Post by **The Blitz** » Sat May 02, 2009 3:28 am

wibblywobbly wrote: On the Elmod? Yes, there are four connectors. LRLR. Just connect each motor +/- to an L & L, and the other motor +/-to a R & R connector. Pull the jumper while the battery is connected and the tank is switched on.

L = Left motor
R = Right motor

OK that is correct, are you using the Heng long boards?
The motors will run in test mode.

Check that they both run forwards. If they don't then simply swap the +/- wires over for that motor. It's just pot luck as to whether you get it right first time.

Cheers

Rob

wibblywobbly · Post by **wibblywobbly** » Sun May 03, 2009 9:10 am

Nope, was not using HL boards, it was all top of the range latest 6 channel kit, though I only used 4 channels (the added functionality available on 6 channels is dependent on having a compatible tx, and mine is a rather expensive 7 channel Hitec Eclipse 7 QPCM - even modifying the switches wouldn't give me the seperate channel control for gun/mg).

Everything worked perfectly, except the power to the motors, it was always well down on an HL, and repeatedly burnt out esc's. I even sent Thomas the details of structured tests that I ran using clamp meters and digital heat sensors, on a test bench. I have tried numerous motors too.

Don't think I am denigrating what Elmod are seeking to achieve, I am not. Their kit is far superior to Tamiya in functional terms. It achieves a great deal more than a Tamiya ever could, that has to be seen, and heard, to be believed.

The problem is that Thomas and his guys have designed a theoretical. What they should have done is obtain a selection of motors and test them to destruction on these boards. When they knew 100% what worked and what didn't, the sensible option would be to list recommended motors on their site, or even better include them as optional extras. The same goes for compatible tx's.

They are a small outfit, and they have limited resources, but they are operating against the big guys (Tamiya/HL) in a very fierce market with a limited customer base. If they provided solid products, with comprehensive English instructions, and a far quicker response to queries/repairs then they would build an excellent reputation. They need to be more responsive to feedback, and act on it. Either they state which motors work, and which tx's work, and stand by that recommendation, or they will fail. It is not acceptable for them to sell boards and leave the buyer to try out motors that will fail. This is what Bill Gates did with releases of Windows. We are not beta testers, we are customers, and we have every right to expect that we are going to get properly developed and bullet proof goods in return for our cash. There are no warnings anywhere on either the site, or within their literature regarding the damage that can be done by fitting the 'wrong' motors, or any information regarding the 'spec' of the boards and what the maximum 'spec' of a motor should be?? It is an insane way to run a business.

Quite apart from the motor issue, the turret circuits that feed through the 8 pin socket are protected by onboard fuse N20. This fuse is hard soldered onto the board and is microscopic. If you short out a turret connection, you blow the onboard fuse, not the external 10 amp one. This means that the board has to go back to Germany for repair and a 1 month delay in getting it back. There is no logic whatsoever in having a vulnerable fuse hard soldered onto a pcb??

I wish I ran the company...these problems would never have got off the drawing board!

Rob G

wibblywobbly · Post by **wibblywobbly** » Wed May 20, 2009 5:21 pm

Right, latest update.

I got my Elmod boards back yesterday, and fitted one in my Tiger. I also installed HL white cap motors to be on the safe side.

Apart from a slight glitch that was resolved by sending Thomas a video (and that was resolved in seconds) it is all now running ok. The HL motors aren't the best in the world for running a 13lb tank, but as yet nothing has melted or even smells hot.

A little tip for anyone who fits an Elmod and modifies the turret wiring and doesn't want to use that horrible HL 8 pin socket to attach to the Elmod board. Go to Maplins and you can buy a bag of 100 x individual pins. Code 18-56065 (Packaged Terminal Pin). For some strange reason even though my turret wires were welded to the 8 pin socket, there was no current getting through it? Using these pins that are purpose made for the socket that Elmod uses on their board, you get a super snug fit and a much neater looking job (just remember to buy some narrow heat shrink too).

Now I have a spare Thinktank board, and need to look around for a project that I can use it on. If I could get hold of a Tamiya Sherman minus the electrics that would fit the bill nicely!

Rob G

Aus_Tank · Post by **Aus_Tank** » Thu May 21, 2009 11:12 am

Rob,

Glad to see you have it sorted...in a sense!

I should be able to test those Jamara's on the weekend. Just waiting on the 12t pinions to arrive from Singapore.

Phill