Painting a Tiger One - Order: Paints, weathering etc.

[toshik]

Ok thanks what PSI/Bar air pressure output do I need? AS196 is great but it seems to be internal UK model.

[ALPHA]

Ok thanks what PSI/Bar air pressure output do I need? AS196 is great but it seems to be internal UK model.

Before you go out and spend mega bucks on a high end airbrush...I'll let you in on a secret Toshik....a 20 dollar chinese no name airbrush will do the same job at a more affordable price....The M1 I'm working on now is done with one...never had the urge to buy an Iwata or a Grex....Iwata is basically a blinged out Badger...Grex is an old design that used to be pimped by Thayer and Chandler ....on the upper end air brushes...Passche to me sits alone...they have the simplest design that hasn't been copied by anyone....the rest are basically all the same design...reason the Chinese models are just as good....the only difference is that with Iwata Grex and Badger...you can get replacement parts...the Chinese models are limited to the needle ..velocity cone...and velocity cap
Now your compressor...you don't need a fancy schmansy one...You can get an Industrial 2 1/2 hp model for about 99 dollars which will outperform any Airbrush compressor...the only thing you would need to worry about is the noise...they are kind of loud... like I stated in my previous post...your "living" conditions should determine what you buy...Output pressure is relative...it depends a lot on the Airbrush you choose...gravity feeds take less pressure...about 15 PSI in general will do the job....a SIPHON feed requires more...24 PSI minimum ....I own several compressors....all do the job...it does depend on when I'm spraying...I use a cheap Diaphragm model for late night brushing... and my Piston powered ones in the day...they have a greater output ...but are noisier

That's pretty much the long and the short of it....bottom line...it's not the airbrush set up...it's the "skill" of the person who uses the airbrush set up that matters

Good Luck Toshik

ALPHA

[cathurga]

Ok, so I started doing some painting, and I have had some good results and then some TERRIBLE ones. I used Montana spray cans and started with some plastic primer from Krylon and some metal primer for the bottom of the hull, metal idler and drive wheels. The metal primer did not work as well as I had hoped,but it was ok. Then I used a rust color over the primers, with the intention of doing the salt trick for chipping. All was going well until I started on the 'Arabian sand' color....disaster! It's left a really grainy texture on the parts. I know it is not my technique, I have painted like this before, I think it is the temperature and humidity. It is the middle of summer and the temps can hit the high 40's easily (deg c). I tried in the evening as well and the humidity goes up in the night time. I am ok with the lower hull and the parts under the 'wheel arches' as it looks like a sandy deposit, but some parts I want to clean up and redo.
What can I do to remove the paint? The metal will resist solvents, but the plastics won't. I have removed paint from tamiya cars before, by using brake fluid. Can I do the same with the plastics on the tank? Anyone have any suggestions?
I am going to have to wait for the temps to drop before I try the main hull, turret,barrel and wheels, I really don't want a bad finish on them. Bummer, as I wanted to crack on with building

[spongehoobtank82]

Soak the parts in a diluted bath of original Dettol for 1-2 days sounds crazy but I did this with my tiger and it worked great, paint just scrubs of with a tooth brush/ cloth! Wont damage plastic or metal parts