CHIEFSSON, I have a slightly more detail thread on the build on the local board:
http://can-amrctankclub.forumotion.ca/t ... -max#11121
But just to summarizes, I had started off with using the Clark Tk-22 with the new smaller battery that comes with the Taigen Stug III, but I couldn't get the battery as parts so I ended up with the Tk35, which is the latest Clark board for the 1/35 scale. The major difference is that Tk-35 is only 7A and not the 20A like the Tk-20s, and smoker function is disabled. When I first hook up the Tk-22 the gears and motors were too fast and not to scale speed, but with the Tk-35 it feels and moves right, but I don't know if there will be enough torque. Having said that this is not meant to be a hardcore battler so as long as it moves reasonable well I am happy. Here is the interior picture of the lower hull:
As you can see, I had hope that the small battery would fit between the two hull cavity but since I couldn't get them I have to use a regular one and lean it up against the side to make it fit, and it intrudes into the main area. I have to also remove the speaker from its housing to make it fit where it is, as you know the front hull slopes quite a bit down to meet the lower hull. The receiver is a Turnigy one so it is quite huge, and I could have fit it into the bulkhead next to the speaker, but since I ended up with a Tk-35 there is now more room in the main space.
Tk-35 size solves most of the problem and I could have also use a smaller receiver as well if needed (Like a HobbyKing one for my Turnigy radio) but it creates other problem. The board is small which means all the plugs are the extra small ones (like the flash and IR plug on the Tk-22). I initially even have reservation about the voltage it would carry since Clark gives you all the connectors to the new board but they are all gauge 24/26 wires including the power feed and the motor feeds. In order to keep things transferable with my other Tk-22 boards, instead of soldering new plugs into the power/motor/MG/Light feed, I solder male JST plugs on the other end so that everything can be moved between Tk-22s and the one Tk-35:
What you see here is actually the CN2 connector but it is splitted into two on the Tk-35, 3 pin one for the battle unit, and two for the programming/hit LED. Basically I did this for all the connectors I needed on the Tk-35.
Lastly, I didn't bother with elevation or rotation, but they would have to be hidden in the upper hull as there is absolutely no room on the lower. I put the recoil servo directly under the breech block as you can see in the picture.
Hope this helps, let me know if there is something specific and I will take more pictures.
MichaelC.
Thought their quality control would be of a higher degree.... that's a serious warp on the left side of the hull 
