fitting a charging plug help

[nicktank]

Hi, I'd like to fit a charging socket to my tank for obvious reasons, what's the best or easiest safe way to do it, and what standard connectors have been used with success?

thanks

nick

[xrad]

I like standard 1/8th audio jacks..radio shack or similar

just make sure to wire up correctly

[jrc]

hi nick

these I used on all my tanks and had no problem and use the HL on/off switch. Just make sure the contacts don't bridge across.

ross

[nicktank]

hi thanks, where did you site it? I've got a PzIV, out the rear panel?

[jrc]

hi Nick,
pzIV is the most awkward so I simply put it on the side, up near the return roller. Tiger, underneath the exhaust. Panther, opened a rear hatch. PzIII under the rear (where smoke pipe is). King Tiger under one of the rear deck covers. It's important where ever you site it don't have it attached to the upper hull for ease of removal.
ross

[BigPanzer]

Hi,

Don't use jacks designed for audio use. These can cause a momentary short circuit as they are inserted or removed and are not designed to take high currents. The insulating material within the plug is usually nothing more than a cheap low melting point plastic and it will soften and distort if they get slightly warm, which they can easily do with a high charging current. The plugs are also quite easy to damage and the jack itself is hollow. The best type of plug/socket is the type specifically designed for the job (as suggested by JRC) and they are seen on portable power supplies, laptops and almost every other portable device using external power. They are strong (you can stand on them without damage) and the connections themselves are much more positive.

They are available in numerous different sizes, either panel or PCB mounting, but I chose the same size as my Tx so I can use the same lead from my universal charger. I usually hide it under the drivers hatch together with the on/off switch, power on and charging LED's. Be careful where you put it so no crud gets into it. If you have to mount it in a vulnerable place, get a second plug, throw the screw on bit away, cut the connections off and keep it in place as a "socket filler"

It is also a good idea to use a high current diode in series with the socket to prevent any possibility of backfeeding, but some auto chargers do not like these.

Available from Maplin, RS, Farnell or virtually anywhere, even salvaged equipment.

Peter

[jrc]

the type specified are DC power plugs by Maplin.
they're not expensive and as Peter says worth it.

[lister fiend]

hi guys,
i think i've missed the boat here by a couple of years
but can anyone point me to a three way switch from maplins?
i can't seem to find one
cheers
lister
ps i've just reread the post.
so i can just use the standard heng long switch?
so would having it switched off be enough to isolate the electics whilst charging?
sorry for not being the sharpest tool in the box
but this could get real expensive if it goes wrong!

[jonger]

lister - if you study the diagram jrc has put up you will see the battery is connected to the centre contacts then the switch either connects to the main board (tank on) or connects to the charging socket (tank off) its quite simple once you get the idea behind it.
It does mean re-soldering all the contacts to the main switch.

[jrc]

hi lister

if you wire the switch as shown in the diagram when you switch your tank off it is in the charge position so your electronics are disconnected.
I've used this method now for a while on 1/16 scale tanks charging 7.2v batteries and now also use it to charge 1/6 tanks charging 12v batteries with no problems so far.

cheers

jr